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  #1  
Old 30 Oct 2008
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F650 Oil
Hi, does anyone know what volume and type of engine oil to use on an '02 F650GS? This is to be done with a new oil filter. Thanks in advance, Linzi.
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  #2  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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Chain Gang FAQ's will cover everything you could want to know, hopefully - faq.f650.com - /GSFAQs/
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  #3  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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Chaingang
Thank you, I'm going out to Montenegro to pick up an F650GS and it needs an oil change before the ride here. As a Guzzi rider I'm aware of the little un's qualities but need to gen up on the details. It seems to be one cylinder short! Linzi.
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  #4  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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SILKOLENE FUCHS COMP 4 20W50
look here Fuchs Silkolene Motorcycle Lubricants and Oils

is a very good oil which I use in 2001 F650Dakar
+oil filter+ oil filter casing 'O' ring, + 1 new crush washer for sump plug
(take care- the sump plug is also made of aluminium 'chocolate' so use the correct hex spanner on it) sooooo easy to knock off the edges....
Maybe give it a new air filter and one of those fabulous Iridium spark plugs too for 'love-your-thumper's sake !
Last edited by Bertrand; 31 Oct 2008 at 13:49.
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  #5  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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If you change the plugs it'll need two won't it? Take a good look at the colour of what comes out. If it's chocolate milkshake the water pump needs doing PDQ.

The note about the sump plug is spot on. Forget the torque wrench, it's a push with two fingers on a short spanner and then a tiny, tiny bit more if it drips.

If memory serves me, there is a second drain in the frame for the oil tank that really speeds it up. It won't take the full quantity of oil until it's run for a few seconds, so ignore the dipstick, measure it out and measure it in (use a plastic jug).

Enjoy your ride,

Andy
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  #6  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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It's an '02 so only one spark plug,no oil in the frame on the GS models- that was the older carburettor version.

I use Castrol GPS oil but whatever you use make sure it's suitable for wet clutches, 'car' oil often has anti-friction additives which as you can imagine are not good for clutches!

It's best to use a six sided socket for the drain plug if you can find one, to lessen the chance of rounding it off.

To refill after an oil and filter change add 2 litres,run the engine for a short time and then add a further 0.3 litre.

Tony
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  #7  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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method
Draining the oil
1- left hand side of bike , locate your header tank
Push header tank 'in to remove pressure on 'circlips' then remove those (2)

2) release header tank right hand nut and allow the header tank to 'tilt' to the left. Now undo the the bottom drain nut - oil will come out.

When it stops dripping- re-assemble in reverse.- the header tank will now be empty. There is a wee crush ali washer there too.

3) open sump plug and release remainder of the oil

4) while (3) is dripping away, open oil filter casing, remove old filter and wipe clean inside casing,insert new filter, replace casing 'O' rubber ring and lube with a bit of clean oil and close filter casing.

5- Replace sump washer then re-install sump plug - careful not to over tighten.

Refill with 2.3 litres of oil

Always worth checking the tiny weep hole below LHS casing as it does get gummed up with street crud.
Wipe the casing clean - any oil smears there is an indicator of forthcoming problems with water pump.

TIP- get yourself a new sump plug- one with a magnet in its centre - it catches any filings- keep old one as spare.
Hope this is helpful.
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  #8  
Old 31 Oct 2008
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Maintenance
Thanks all for the information. I've been reading up about the oil change procedure. Compared to my Mandello Tractor it is complex! I'm used to just removing the sump plug and having a coffee while it self drains. It's not my bike but it's just a precaution. "Because your worth it". Linzi.
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  #9  
Old 1 Nov 2008
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I would recommend to rather use a 10W40 or 15W40 oil instead of 20W50. The 50 rating only gives you a very marginal edge in high temperature stability which is negligible in a water cooled non turbocharged engine. On the other side the 20W means the oil is thicker at low temperatures and takes longer to reach the places where it's needed on cold start and also passes through the bypass valve instead through the oil filter for longer.
Theoretically a higher viscosity (=thicker) oil will also increase internal friction and have a detrimental effect on fuel economy and performance.
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  #10  
Old 1 Nov 2008
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Viscosity
Hi, interesting you mention that. My air cooled 850 Moto Guzzi uses 10W40 and people who've done 120,000 miles and more have had seizures with 20W50 which is just too thick. It only shows up after many miles. But the Guzzi uses separate oil for gearbox and has a dry clutch--should have that is!! I am finding there is MUCH information via Chaingang and ukgser.com. WHAT did we do pre-internet? Linzi.
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  #11  
Old 1 Nov 2008
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2.2l if you're not changing in the oil filter
2.3l if you are changing the oil filter

I generally aim for 4 stroke mineral oil but have used car mineral oil once without too much problem.

BMW seem to use semi-synthetic now.

Some people recommend changing every 3-4000 miles.

In general, I think that you're better running quality oil for 5-6000 miles than replacing it earlier with car or non- 4 stroke oil after just 3-4000
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  #12  
Old 1 Nov 2008
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Winter
Yep, in this case I'm thinking what might be a sub zero celcius winter and a cold start up after a month's layup.The big factor seems to be having the oil too thick in winter starts. The more I read however, the more I see it is easy to be overly concerned. I'll wait till I see the condition of the old oil. Linzi.
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  #13  
Old 23 Dec 2008
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Great thread. Just picked up a F650 for the wife. This will come in handy for oil changes.

cheers
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