Preparing my R80/7 for a long and rugged ( but not tough!) overland trip.

Mostly road of varying grades and some track and trail. Solo with hard panniers.

I'll describe the bike and perhaps some of you will identify an area which will require special treatment or something you think I missed.

THE BIKE:-
is fairly low mileage for the year, has been very very well preserved and maintained and many parts were replaced only because they had been on the bike a long time and looked a little old rather than because of any failure.

ELECTRICS and ignition systems:
Have replaced most major components, diodes and relays. Alternator had a rebuild 3 years and less than 100 miles ago. ( The bike has done 15 miles in two years). New battery ( 28 amp) fitted and new High Output Voltage regulator on order.
Question about ignition system:
Do I keep existing points system or change to electronic.
Also, should I fit the OEM Voltage regulator or an Electronic one fitted on later bikes.

ENGINE-TRANSMISSION:-
Engine was replaced in 1984 and think it has done 25,000 approx In general good shape, runs well and has no known issues. No smoke, no noises, plenty power. Very reliable starter. First push of the button on a good battery Even after sitting for a while.
Gearbox is good. Typical R80. No known issues apart from icky non adjustable gear change linkage which will be replaced by something better.
Bevel box and shaft seem sound, no issues and no untoward noises. Due to the time in mothballs, everything will be well cleaned, topped up and regreased etc.


THE REST:
Bing 32mm Flat top carbs have just been serviced and all new rubbers, grommets, throttle and choke cables. All new filters.
Brakes ( original twin ATE fronts and drum rear) have been overhauled and in good shape. New Cast iron rotors on front but still got the undertank master cylinder set up which all seems to work OK.
Shockers are in good shape for commuting but seem original so maybe scope for improvement here.
Frame and metalwork is solid with umpteen coats of Hammerite built up over the years. Just fitted a Surefoot sidestand and need to fix the sticky centrestand.
Everything else on the bike is bog standard and in good shape. I put a Krauser 'K' Frame on for the Panniers and top box. It seems stronger than the BMW metal tube one.

That's about it. The bike is in fairly good shape and is undergoing a full service and any tatty bits being replaced with new.
All this is great for normal use but is it enough for the trip. What have I missed and what should I beef up for that sort of long trip and not all of it in particularly good conditions.

Thanks in advance.
Ian..

__________________
If you never make mistakes, you ain't trying..

Ian

Two things spring immediately to mind after reading your post.

1. Rear suspension unit - what make is it? The original? You might want to consider changing this for an Ohlins which are reputed to be excellent. If it's a Hagon unit, I heard really bad reports on these at the recent HU meeting when not one but two failed on Africa Twins when the tops snapped off.

2. Wiring - If you are going to ride with dipped headlights on for any period of time, you might want to consider upgrading some of the wiring as the wires are a tad on the small side and could overheat. You'll need to speak to an electrical expert to discover which ones to replace but all of the earth wires need upgrading.

Regards

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the tips. Appreciated.

About the Suspension, I will be fitting heavier duty progressive springs to the front as part of a planned upgrade anyway. The twin shocks on the rear are stock BMW ( police) spec. I have been looking at what to replace them with and if I have to get Ohlins, then I certainly will.
Since the point of the trip is to take a standard police bike, with standard Krauser panniers and top box, I will be travelling light (as I always do!). Basically, that means if it will go inside a box, (or tank bag) it can come. If it has to hang off the bike, it gets dumped. I wear the same clothes till they fall off then buy more enroute. The exception is my BMW riding gear, thermals and waterproofs. These are the only clothes that stay with me. Everyhing else is minimal, almost survival. ( Ray Mears on wheels!)
I travelled like this in my army days and find no need to take the contents of my garden shed with me now.
Point is, I won't be carrying an abnormal load so my only concern is that the suspension is good enough for dodgy surfaces for prolonged periods.

Regarding electrics, I have just upgraded every thing, Battery, Stator, diode board, voltage regulator, new relays and anything else I could think of. I'm pretty much stuck with the police wiring which has been thoroughly checked out. I even bought a spare wiring loom off ebay so that I could use the proper grade wiring for all the wee extra circuits I put in for this and that. I have rewired the head/running lamp so that only the running lamp ( with brighter LED) can be switched on instead of dip beam. That saves a few watts. ( it is by-passable should someone question the legality in some countries) Added take-offs for trickle charger or optimate and also a connection for solar panel trickle charger which sits on top of the top box. ( It is velcro'd on and can be stowed away) I have also added an easier to get to fuse box ( marine quality) and added a couple of fuses. Only other thing to do is fabricate a cut out switch for the surefoot sidestand I got off ebay. Needless to say, a mini-multimeter and some spare wiring will be going with me.

Since the bike has had a good overhaul ( it'd been laid up 2 years) but not an actual a re-build, I will at some point before the big trip think about re-newing all the major chassis and frame bearings / seals etc.

Being a good boy scout, I have tried to think of everything and since half the fun for me is in the planning and preparation, I don't mind doing what's got to be done. Even if I never did the trip ( not an option) I will have one hell of a motorcycle.

So, thanks again for the very relevant tips.
Ian.

__________________
If you never make mistakes, you ain't trying..

a couple of very small points.
I would replace the needles and needle jets. On my high mileage bike it made more than 40km per tankful difference.
Motobins sell a bright 20 watt 'pilot' light that uses a lot less current for your riding light.
you could order all of these parts from them. it would be worth setting up an account, then if you are in need of anything you will already be a customer.

Hi.
Thanks for the tips.
I have given the carbs a strip down, clean and a renewed some gaskets,rubber inlets, O rings, diagphrams etc but not much else since they were running OK before. However, I will take your advice and give them the full monty. I read a lot of stuff on 'snowbums' Airhead page ( That guy is an encyclopedia, where does he get the time?) and kind of scared myself into ordering new floats too. A pair of vacuum gauges are on the way ( ebay again) so I can take care of the balancing. I'm also about to renew the fuel hoses so that begs a new question.
Should I fit in-line fuel filters? Again, Snowbum kind of got me wondering since he states that these inline filters mess with fuel delivery. (10 pages of very complicated explanations as to why!).. Anyone got an opinion?
I personally thought it would be a good idea.
Regarding the running light. Again, I shall follow your advice. The LED was OK but I'd rather go with the bulb that was made for the job.

Currently overhauling the front end and messing about with wheels and tyres but thats another story.
Thanks again.
Ian

__________________
If you never make mistakes, you ain't trying..

Ian
My BMW R100/7 ran for years with inline filters; never any problems.