Re ceramic clutch - it could be that TT has different suppliers in different countries, which doesn't sound good because it could mean that you get different quality although all under the brand of TT :-(

I fitted a ceramic clutch from Sachs, Schweinfurth, sold under the title "Sports clutch". After I wrecked my first (standard) clutchplate in difficult terrain at only 18,000 k's I fitted this Sachs product (90,000 k's ago). I strained the clutch heavily in Oz, riding sand and letting the clutch slip. No probs up to now. Besides that, once you get oil on the standard clutch it is rendered iseless. The ceramic only needs to be cleaned properly to be in working condition again.

None the less, it always depends on how much you are prepared to spend on changes. Many are "nice to have", but not really necessary, others are important. Checking the circlip e.g. According to the Clymer manual the circlip was only omitted in the first 8 months of 1993, but I'm no specialist and as others have mentioned before, this should be checked.

__________________
Only when we pause to wonder
do we go beyond the limits of our little lives.
(Rod McKuen)

As far as the circlip issue goes, there is a lot of diferent opinions. lots of info here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hlight=circlip
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ntribute-24620
My own personal feeling is the circlip doesnot absolutely solve the problem, and not all non'clipped transmitions are destined to pre-mature failure. Mine is proof of that, along with many others. i've seen circlipped transmitions develop the same problems than non. Mine doesn't have the circlip and does quite well without. Truthfully, for peace of mind, the next time i open up the box, i'll get it done and see if there is a difference afterall, but i'm not convinced..
My theory is it's the shaft itself not machined to proper tolerance, resulting in a lighter interference fit. It's also a bad choice of bearings from BMW, the rear should be a thrust bearing, like is found in most other transmitions. Anyways, we're getting off topic. If you do decide to open the box, it wouldn't hurt to get the circlip installed when you put in new bearings.
There's been little talk about the driveshaft issues on the bike. Like the transmition, results vary. I strongly advise you properly inspect the driveshaft and lube it properly with Moly based grease, like Optimol or another product from Honda (sorry, can't remember the detail.) If the driveshaft does need replacing, for the price of a stock, you can get a greasable one from here
http://www.brunos.us/Gearbox%20Transmissions.htm
...oh, one more thing. If the transmition gets opened and the rear seal replaced, make sure that the breather hole on top of the seal-housing is sealed with silicone. This is often missed, even by experienced Airhead mechanics and is particular to the airhead GS only. Make sure all the rubber boots are in good condition, replace if necesary.......


...okay, i'm done for now

Guy's, can't thank you all enough for the help you have given.

I will do the gearbox stuff ie, circlip and 1st and 5th ratio's.
Also the Diode and rotor.
Also thinking about the HPN tank, any thoughts on the best place to look for 2nd hand!
The greasable drive shaft i think is a must and replace all the bearings etc.
What do you think about the standard switch gear, should it last with 57k miles under it's belt!

Thanks again

Paul

You should have no problem at all. It's quite serviceable and can be cleaned. I just use WD-40 for mine. Your bike has very low mileage, most of the parts should be in very good condition as long as it wasn't abused. Be sure to adjust the valves regularly, they tend do regress into the seat after about75k-100k Km. Way down the road, if you rebuild the heads, replace the lifters and the rings. NEVER let someone hone the barrels! They will outlast the rest of the bike. (small cost there) Have fun and get to know your bike intimately! It's an awesome machine and if properly taken care of won't let you down.

Circlip was not fitted between models from 1984/85 right up to 1996 after production stopped. The only new models to have them will be the Basic and Kalahari.

Honing is essential, the roughness aid the ring to bed in and develop a flat profile with the cylinder wall. If you do not hone, this important part of the running in process will not happen and as soon as you start hammering the bike after the initial run in period the rings will heat up too much and this causes them to develop a dish shape making even less contact with the cylinder wall. The end result is a smoky engine with higher than normal oil consumption.
Honing the Nikasil cylinder can be a problem, as to much aggressive honing will eventually strip of the nikasil coating of the Aluminium.
- For you that don't know; in 1980 BMW started making the cylinders completely from aluminium and coating it with a very thin but very tough nikasil coating. This gave the cylinder walls incredibly long life at the expense of the piston rings. Rings are less expensive to replace so this is a welcome change and it does increase engine life overall -.
Honing should be done by an engineer that does nikasil cylinders in general and understand the danger.
Normally a honing tool is used that look similar to a bottle brush as this type of honing device place very little pressure on the walls but still enough to leave the hone marks in the tough nikasil cylinder wall.
The purpose of honing is 1st; to aid the shaping of the rings during run in period and 2nd; oil get trapped in the grooves providing adequate lubrication to the piston rings. This is why nicasil engines last longer because the grooves does not get worn away providing less lubrication with age.
Even though the grooves is still in place after many miles, the walls are to smooth to bed the rings in properly, so it is for this reason that a light hone must be done.

Thanks Ron, I will keep the stock switch gear.

As I know very little about engines apart from maintaining them I'm getting a Guy who works for BMW Park Lane in London to look at it for me. If he thinks the pots are ok I will leave well alone but I guess that if worn i will have to either get them honed or get new Pots.

If you have any more advise no matter how basic it is to you, it might be very new to me so I would be greatfull if you can think of anything.

Thanks to the GS Workshop also.

Regards Paul

Just a note,

BMW told me that from 81 on the pots had a Nicaseal coating that cant be honed, can be re-plated but cheaper to get new aftermarket jobies.

So the BMW Workshop S/A is correct.


Thanks all