Hey everyone,
I'm currently in the process of building up my 81 R80G/S. It is currently stock and I wish to build it in such a way that down not modify the OE components, so that should I ever wish to return it so I will be able to with an afternoon and some grape or barley therapy. I would really appreciate your input, and suggestions.

I've been reading the threads lately about guys who have done different modifications to thier bikes. About this time last year I was spamming the internet trying to find a G/S. I had found two, one fell through but I think my enthusiasm made the owner love it. The other I got and became good friends with the PO. I ended up getting it in NM, blowing the charging system and rear main seal and had to fix it on the go with no clue how to do it.

Well, I'm looking to get a new bike again...this time not in NM, CA or Germany, but in my 16x20 shed that's in the woods. That's right, my own G/S. I want to mod it and make it suitable for overland travel.


Max BMW, New Hampshire

Woody's Wheel Works, Denver CO

Powder Plus, Bangor ME

Motorrad Elektrik, Good guy and has helped me out a jam before


Ebay, Advrider classifieds, IBMWR classifieds, HUBB classifieds
-Fairing@ADV-$75
-BMW accessory outlet kit@eBay-$35
Corbin Seat-single@ IBMWR classifieds-$175
R100GS forks/tree/axle/spacers@ IBMWR classifieds-$400
R100GS fender@IBMWR classifieds-$60
ME Omega 450w@Ebay-$400
R100GS subframe @IBMWR -$250

The restoration begins :evil;

Currently seeking list:
-Fork seals
-R1150RTP switch holder with early K heated grip switch
-Hot Grips
-A set of good (small) aux lights
-Ignition Euro spec light switch and left hand switch housing
-front section of the headlight pod
-Touratech Rear carriers
-upgraded brake caliper....R1100gs twin pot conversion
-SS brake lines to match with caliper*
-R100gspd or R100GS skid plate
-R100GSPD air dam
-R100GS front wheel


The Plan:
-remove front cover, starter box, air-box and battery box (1 hour)---Take to have coated-$75
-Remove front fender, side covers and keep with tank for later painting.
-Remove front and rear wheel
-remove handlebars, and other items including pod for cleanup.--Send for coating
-replace worn switchgears with euro spec
-Replace ignition with eurospec
-Upgrade charging with enduralast or Omega
-General degreasing and cleanup throughout
-Replace all connectors to Amp Superseal
-Run three dedicated #4 grounding wires, all from the battery (-) to rear of diodeboard, frame ground and tranny' lower left mounting bolt
-Install inline deadmans switch on battery to kill any parasitic drain on extended shutdown and for security
-Fix stripped FD drain plug
-Fix leaking brake lever on FD
More to come


Before Photos


Left side


Right side


Oil stained FD...brake lever and Drain


Oil wet from RMS or oil pump. Not sure what to make of it. Both are new, and it gets like that every 1-2 k miles? Thoughts?


Rims are only dirty, even the spokes are rust free. Will only polish them to a shine, not send off for upgrade as I do not see the point.

Front even has the sticker intact


Find a better, more professional way of mounting the shock reservoir, pull the god awful R100gs racks and the redneck rear hoop


Pull and powdercoat, install bash plate


Hot Grips and new switchgear to clean up the fading, may change out guards to black

Latest update 12/30/10
I managed to score some R100 forks, fender and brake





Now I need to find a wheel and figure out how to turn the forks black...

Looking forward to the build thread Shadow Raven...

__________________
Ekke Kok

'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 250,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure 100,000 km (just finished Circumnavigating Asia)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

www.ekke-audrey.ca

12/31/10 update:

Spent the day pulling stuff off of the r80g/s subframe, pulling the exhaust, and removing the shock for reconditioning by Works Performance.

Per the Recommendation of Greg Hutchinson I am having the Res line extended to 24" and terminated at a 90 degree for mounting under the R100gs subframe

1/1/11 Update

Scored a Omega 450 kit on Ebay...$400!!!

Spent this afternoon:

Pulling the carbs:
They need some serious cleaning, degreasing and polishing.
Can I just remove the diaphragm and bowl then drop them in carb cleaner? Will that kill the o-rings?

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0088.JPG

Removed the emissions lines (very easily), what plugs do I need to close those holes?

Pulled the airbox, opened the starter cover, and alt cover to gain access.



Planning on pulling the swingarm and trans to replace the clutch as it grabs when hot :becca. I may send it to Anton to get updated.

I want to send the timing cover for powdercoating but I'm uncomfortable with the timing situation. Can I just pull the beancan and replace it in a close position when replacing? If I replace the timing chain/sprockets is it fairly straightforward with markings etc etc?


Went and removed the shifter lever and realized that it had been broken off at one point and rewelded :eek1....will be replacing with a new one.


One last question;
Has anyone used this stuff?

Wish there were more comments. I like to hear others thoughts....

Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.

__________________

Tried to comment - >½ of my replies were not encluded...

Your overhaul is well thought through.
There are more that you could do to the frame and stands.

Have a look on these photos of my overhauls/tunings:
Engine heater:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/messages/5/103.html?torsdagden18november19992306

Alternator:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html

www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

Carburetor gooey solution:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html
Click on the link "Nästa Sida" (next page), or copy and past the adress.

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

From your photos, you need a new front break rotor. Bin that caliper and get a four pot unit and make up a mount from 10mm alloy plate.

Get your starter checke for the glue holding the magnets in... or buy a Bosch or Nippon Denso unit.

Whats the "metal wax" for... polishing? If its the carbs you want to clean, ultrasound is the way to do it.

Beers,
John

__________________
Nostradamus Ate My Hamster

Thanks for the comments, It's always useful to get input from guys who travel and know the mods that work.

I picked up a r100gs fork set for it and I am trying to find a r100gs wheel which will come with a new rotor. I will be dropping a caliper from a R1100GS oilhead on the R100 forks.

The metal wax is to just remove the surface corrosion that is evident throughout and protect it from further cosmetic issues....I want a pretty bike too...at least to start

So I continue:
1/2/11 update

This morning was spent writing articles to pay for the afternoons fun

I bought a cool parts cleaner called chem-dip (cancer in a can?) To help with the degreasing. Seems to work well. I took the adjustable shift linkage that was all greasy, shaft rusted and frozen and between the dip, a stainless steel brillo pad thing and that metal wax I was able to bring it back to new.

I started to work on the carbs but the cap screws were all screwed up. I was able to pull one, but the other was going to strip. I deep creeped it and hit the second carb preemptively. I'll let it soak for an day and try again tomorrow

I also disassembled the clutch assembly and soaked/cleaned that stuff. This got me thinking. Due to the upgrades i've already bought there is no way in hell I am going to be able to afford to do a pro level restoration. I would like to at least paint the nicks and such, but really don't want to do an ass job of it. I am planning to powdercoating the big bits but the small intricate stuff I imagine will be too labor intensive?

How do you guys suggest painting the clutch and throttle assemblies, and anything else that needs touched up?

From here I pulled the throttle assembly and the old nasty brake line that was falling apart in my hands . Did someone say stainless replacement?
I gave the handbar a quick cleaning and will be removing it tomorrow to transfer to the powdercoat box

Dog was cold again so trekked back to the Yurt. Thank god the buddy heater 2 is coming this week. I hate to say it though; the shed is better set up than my garage EVER was.

Martyn,
Thank you for the advice. Yeah the battery was number 3 thing removed following the seat and tool box. You mention the resettable breakers. Please elaborate. I'm quite interested in the modification.
Adam

Nice, we don't see many build-threads here.

You are sure it's from the engine and not from the gearbox?
Beside the seals itself there are a few possibilities:

Oil-pump cover:
It should be perfectly straight. Put it on something completely flat (glass) to check.

RMS:
RealOEM.com � BMW 47E3 R 80 GS CRANKSHAFT/CONNECTING ROD/MOUNTING PARTS
Is #5 in good condition? Have you replaced the o-ring (#6)?

Engine case:
It's extremely rare but they do crack. Check it carefully.

I usually mark the position, it's good enough to get the engine started. When the engine is running I use a timing-gun.

Yes, it's marks on the sprockets so it's pretty easy. It's rarely necessary to replace the sprockets, most people change the chain, guide and tensioner.
If you decide to change the sprockets you might find the upper one hard to remove, the lower is easier but you need to remove the camshaft.....

I see your point but I wouldn't have done it this way. It's a hassle to install the cables and you introduce several weak points. A vehicle should have only one main-ground connected to the battery.
I can write more about this but by introducing several ground-conditions you increase the chance of fires, periodical problems, burned components and problems with charging and you get a system which is hard to repair.

Basically you want your ground-cable to be short and fat, personally I have it fixed to the lower left mounting bolt but the original position is better because it reduces cable-length.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the original setup but (beside the rotor) BMW did a great job designing this.


Again I see your point but it's difficult to do this without introducing voltage-drops to the system. Voltage drops leads to hard starting and charging-problems.

Alibaba,
I see the thinking..basically its a matter of KISS (Keep it simple stupid). Don't add anything that unnecessary and keep it all low tech and BMW originally designed.

To address the points you brought up,

The oil leakage:
I did have to replace the RMS, flywheel ring and oil pump cover this past spring, I may have screwed something up, I know I did not torque the oil cover bolts as I did not have a consensus on the values. I will check once I get the trans off. The leakage you see there is about 1000mi worth in hot temps, not a major leak, but a leak just the same.

Timing chain:
I guess I'll do what the consensus does and just do the chain, guide and tensioner. No sense messing with what works.

Electrics:
I guess I'll make sure to limit the runs of wire. I have heard to make sure the timing cover has good contact with the case too.

Disconnect:
I plan on using marine grade stuff for this. It may introduce future issues, but the added security is well worth it to me

1/3/11 update

Today I spent further pulling stuff from the bike. I am going away for a couple weeks in Feb so want to have it ready for the powder coaters so it'll be ready for reassembly when I return.

Holding off on the handlebars till the end. I'm actually balancing the bike part removal process front to back and vice versa. Should I pull too much off of each end the bike would tilt off of the lift.


Trying to decide if I want to aluminum coat the covers, I took mine and hit it with the metal wax today. Worst I can say is that the oxidation that came off got imbedded into the metal and slightly darkened it. Doen not look too bad though. I may save myself 30-40 bucks and just leave it as is.


Pulled the bean can and the charging system except for the rotor....waiting on the tool. Very dirty in there, and there was a combination of rocks, spiders and other nasty things



Take a look at the rotor in the last photo...looks melted doesn't it???
Some closer photos. Anyone have any ideas, nothing else is melted. I'm guessing it's where the wires come down from the slip rings.



The dirty beancan, marked throughly to aid in replacement.


The next project is to rip into this. What are my upgrade options here...especially if I go to a R1100 caliper


The box of replacements and extras is getting bigger