Motorworks - BMW Motorcycle Spares - home and Moto-bins - BMW Spare Parts and Accessories for Motorcycles - Index do them for about £135 this side of the puddle...

John

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Nostradamus Ate My Hamster

$202 over here. Any idea what could have caused an overheat like that??

THAT wireloome was amazing to look at!

What you show are several causes:
- heat
- detergent
- UV-radiation (gazing/blazing sunlight)
- age
- shortages
- cold/low temperatures (water/humidity + oscillating around 32'F; water-ice)

Should not have happened so soon... on a 30-40 year old bike, I kind of would expect that, but on a 20 years old... Any history?

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

It is an 81 so about 30 years old and apparently in checking around this is kind of thing is common on early G/Ses. It's because the wire makes a sharp bend between the triple and fender, eventually it wears down and gets damaged.

1/15/11 update

-Put the harness in the "to be replaced box"

-Managed to get a old craftsman Beam torque wrench for a couple bucks at the local "Massive-building-with-every-type-of-tool-imaginable-just-need-to-find-it-hidden-under-other-tools" It'll be good to use to verify my snap-on torque wrench values.

-Got all the parts that I need to work on this week laid out. Hoping to run it up to the powered coater late in the week.

-I ordered a slide hammer type seal puller for the trans. Seems more practical as the other style would add pressure to the casing and something I wish to avoid.


-Still waiting on Fedex to deliver my subframe.....they are the worst delivery company.....They have lost more stuff of mine than I'd like to mention.

-Other than that I played on this

...slidehammers are neat

But,... there is noting on the beemer that requires one, or is possible to use one for...

You will need a couple of special pullers for the gearbox and final drive /bevel. These can be made fairly easilly.


Snowmobil - could be fun
I drove to Falun this thursday (on my R80/7-RT), ca 200km north of me. About -5'C going up north doing about 100km/h. Weather forcast predicted down to -8'C. Drove back home via Sandviken, and dropped in on www.midland.se to say hello. All in all about 500km trip. Leaving Sandviken it was late at night and temprature was x2 the prediction... -15'C... Schubert C1 can not cope with -15'C... the visor ice-up at once... my BMW II with heated visor was not operational... and I was dressed for down to -10'C... (BIG misstake!), forcing me to drive at the horrendous speed of no faster than 80km/h all the way home from Sandviken (about 180km) due to the chillfactor effect on the visibility and insulation defecit due to the under-dressing ... Oh,... and no front-brakes either... couldn't get the ... brembos to funtion so I changed them and lost all front-wheel braking instead... (LOL).

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__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

Actually, there is an alternative. An agressive screw inserted into a carefully drilled pilot hole can be removed with a slide hammer. That is how I removed my rear main seal. Not difficult and prevents putting any leverage on the case

Here is a gentleman from Colorado doing the seal I need to do with this method.


Nice....Last winter I rode a KLR650 equipped with a sidecar all winter. Was fun, but the salt on the roads and the strain it put on the bike was not worth it to continue. One winter was enough for me. I'll stick with major bike mtnce and snowmobiling when the snow flies Maine has an international trail system and I can travel all the way to Labrador if the desire hit.

Yep. Road-salt is a vehicle killer!

...if you need to replace the front-seal on the gearbox it is highly likely that you may need to replace a bearing or two as well, i.e a major gearbox overhaul...

It happens (extremly rare) that that seal fails, and if that would be the case - that's the way to change it

When overhauling the gearbox (about 100 000km intervalls), one do change all seals and bearings. Pitted sprockets should also be replaced.

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert

I know, odd that it failed. The only explanation I have is that the bike mostly sat in high altitude dry area from 1994 until 2010 when I bought it so many of the seals dried out.

I've discussed the running characteristics with a gentleman named Anton Largadier in VA who is very good at rebuilding these transmissions and he does not feel there is anything seriously wrong with it.

It only has about 50k so it's due, but I think I can get one more season out of it.

In any case I will no matter what have it redone before I leave, the last thing I need is a failure on the road.... I understand there were some advancements in the 85 model year so I would have those added as well as the low 1st and high 5th.

Thank you for the email, once she is back together I'll have a look...or listen

I've changed the seal twice.
First time at 90kkm before a big trip, second time at 220kkm. First time it was completely dry, second time there was a bit oil but not much.

I pried mine out with a screwdriver.

1/16/11 update:

JB weld FINALLY set up after about a week due to the intense cold and dryness in the air up here. I took the dremmil and cleaned out the extra JB, ground down the high spots, sanded it smooth and polished it up. Not perfect, but better than a nasty gaping hole on the flange.





Continued with the dremmiling and cleaned up the welds on the shifter and brake levers so they looked more uniform and not like a wad of chewed up gum. I also removed the VERY worn brass bushing from the shifter.



I wasn't going to do much with them, but until I get my TT pannier racks I might as well make my OE racks decent as they are R100GS rack....and I happen to be putting a r100gs subframe on. :evil This was not as easy as I had hoped however....Back in NM I had wrapped electrical tape around the tube to make the bags a bit more secure. Unfortunately that tabe became quite brittle and was a PITA to remove. I eventually resorted to a blow torch, goof off and a razor blade.

From here I pulled the kick stand off and found the plate I had welded beginning to break off. I finished the job, and ground off all my old welds with the intention of extending it and putting the large foot back on it.

1/17/11 update

Just took a ride down to get my FD that had to be fixed.....

He unfortunately used a helecoil on the drain plug opposite #11. Oh well. At least he red locktited it in and did it right. More that I can say about now defunct Performance Motorcycle in Albany NY
The reason I say that is because when he pulled it apart he found the big ring that 21-24 go through in this diagram was only hand snugged...not torqued and that number 24 was toasted, brittle and in about 4 pieces. I would not have noticed this stuff had I not dropped it off as I lack the disassembly tools. So although he just helicoiled not threadcerted at least a much bigger issue was averted.






He also gave me the O-rings to fix my leaking brake shaft


I decided that while I had the tran on the bench for photos I should pull the plug to see what it looked like after 6000mi
It was covered in fuzz, and the biggest piece of metal was this. Probably not good, but will have it rebuilt next fall winter anyways


The day was not without tragedy......I got a box for my timing and flywheel refresh campaign and max left the most important part out...the M&Ms. This is almost enough to make me order from BobsBMW

1/18/11 Update:

More photos added tomorrow

I finally got my subframe after chasing the Fedex goober dow the road. He was too scared to drive up a plowed snow covered road...Massive box too. I now have a box to put the frame in for the powdercoaters.

I also managed to get my carb rebuild kits, the final stuff needed for the timing campaign and my torque wrenches.


I figured that as I had much of the stuff I needed I had might as well go ahead and do the one thing I hate to do as it can REALLY FK UP YOUR ENGINE IF YOU DO IT WRONG. Pull the flywheel and ID where the leak is coming from.

I blocked the crank with the short end of an allen key pressed up against the
secured cover, and secured the flywheel with a 7/16th wrench on the flywheel bolts. In reality you never actually have to push on the crank to do squat with these bikes, but the blocking is nice insurance.




I did find the source of the leak.....the rear main seal. Apparently in my failure to install it right the first time in NM and subsequent reinstall in the correct orientation I managed to remove a couple of the ribs and cause a mild leak......



Although it has been leaking since NM, it has not stopped as hoped. An order was placed today for a new one.

The guide ring does worry me though...there is a wear spot on it, not sure if I want to replace it or now. I may scotchbrite it and see if it clears up.


Aside from the leak, the Oil cover bolts were tight, not torqued, but still tight. I also cleaned up the inside for something to do. I have found that if I place a cleaner soaked rag on a screw driver it works better at cleaning out crevices.

1-19-11 update

Got my new EBC HD clutch in the mail today. Looks to be less gripping surface than the old one. :dunno. I guess if it does not work I'll just toss the old one back in next year as its at 50 indicating half worn. Probably could go to 120k as the PO used it more off road that I plan on doing.

Got notification from the brown santa that the rear main seal was to be delivered today. Figured that I had might as well rig up a way to get that seal out. My attempts at pulling it out with pliers didn't work even if it was only 8 months old. So had to revert back to the old fashioned drill a hole and slide hammer trick. Too bad I didn't have a slide hammer and had to use a yankee surveyors stake pre-drill hammer thing. Basically a slide hammer with a 3 foot steel rod. Remove the rod, and attach a screw. My drill also didn't work as if was dull. :huh Thank goodness for Dremmel.




From here I decided I should clean up and reinstall the oil cover. A smearing of high temp silicone gasket goo on the cover edges, and some blue locktite gel on the newly cleaned and degreased threads. Including a new o-ring shall insure that the cover stay nice and leak free :clap NO COMMENTS ON THE Kawasaki brand loctite..the KLR vibrates like a cheap midwestern hotel's bed. Kaw knows something about keeping threads in place!!!




Still find this wear on my FW odd.....


Now prepared to install the RMS



Once the package came I was THRILLED...MAXBMW DELIVERED!!!!!!

They gave me 2 packages of M&Ms with an apology for forgetting them last time!!!! YEAH!!!!!!! MAXBMW IS AWESOME!!



....Yeah I know a bit obsessive I just love the M&Ms they send. It's like crack I tell ya!!


After having lunch and getting my M&M supply as well as a thermos of piping hot coffee I headed back to the shed. I was dreading the RMS install as I hate that crank shift issue. Yeah it was blocked... securely, but dang i'm still nervous. Well managed to install the rms with the help of a proper install tool....damn that's easier than last time



I then inserted the slipring by bolt pressure. Didn't see the point of a new o-ring there as it's only 8 moths old and still pliable.


Then came the Flywheel and the 5 NEW bolts.


I figured I should check the accuracy of the torque with an old craftsman Beam. At 80ftlbs on the Snap-on clicker, it registered 77 on the beam. I pushed the clicker up to 84 and figured it should give a good 80-82 footlbs on factory wet fasteners. Not quite dry, not quite oiled. Perfect compromise.



Not having an extra hand and the dogs refusing to help I enlisted the help of a basketball.


Done and time for a break


Next up was the new clutch, I figured I had might as well clean that too
three rags later and a little big of brake cleaner it was ready for action.



The marks are not EXACTLY 120 degrees apart....there was no way to do it. So I separated them the best I could...the back plate is about at the 4120 mark.


Tightened all bolts to 21NM...with a DROP of locktite for good measure.


Once all that was done I figured that the oil filter should be changed while it was accessible. I don't feel like frigging with the damn thing while the frame and exhaust are in the way.... 5 minutes--done.


I noticed that I had the flat surface, a nice shim and the white ring was in great condition.



I then tore apart the starter. DAMN that thing is rugged. I opened it up, cleaned out all the carbon, dirt, and grease. Polished the communicator, and lacking any other type of high temp grease, put a couple drops of brake caliper grease on the copper bushings. Seems to work well. I can actually move it by hand, something I was unable to do before



The end for today...dogs enjoyed themselves

Have you been pushing your mechanics too much?
Or... are they your supervisors, and been driven to ... by their mechanic?

They seems exhausted!


You did install a new oil-pump?

__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert