Looking forward to the build thread Shadow Raven...

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Ekke Kok

'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 250,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure 100,000 km (just finished Circumnavigating Asia)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

www.ekke-audrey.ca

12/31/10 update:

Spent the day pulling stuff off of the r80g/s subframe, pulling the exhaust, and removing the shock for reconditioning by Works Performance.

Per the Recommendation of Greg Hutchinson I am having the Res line extended to 24" and terminated at a 90 degree for mounting under the R100gs subframe

1/1/11 Update

Scored a Omega 450 kit on Ebay...$400!!!

Spent this afternoon:

Pulling the carbs:
They need some serious cleaning, degreasing and polishing.
Can I just remove the diaphragm and bowl then drop them in carb cleaner? Will that kill the o-rings?

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0088.JPG

Removed the emissions lines (very easily), what plugs do I need to close those holes?

Pulled the airbox, opened the starter cover, and alt cover to gain access.



Planning on pulling the swingarm and trans to replace the clutch as it grabs when hot :becca. I may send it to Anton to get updated.

I want to send the timing cover for powdercoating but I'm uncomfortable with the timing situation. Can I just pull the beancan and replace it in a close position when replacing? If I replace the timing chain/sprockets is it fairly straightforward with markings etc etc?


Went and removed the shifter lever and realized that it had been broken off at one point and rewelded :eek1....will be replacing with a new one.


One last question;
Has anyone used this stuff?

Wish there were more comments. I like to hear others thoughts....

Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.

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Martyn,
Thank you for the advice. Yeah the battery was number 3 thing removed following the seat and tool box. You mention the resettable breakers. Please elaborate. I'm quite interested in the modification.
Adam

Nice, we don't see many build-threads here.

You are sure it's from the engine and not from the gearbox?
Beside the seals itself there are a few possibilities:

Oil-pump cover:
It should be perfectly straight. Put it on something completely flat (glass) to check.

RMS:
RealOEM.com � BMW 47E3 R 80 GS CRANKSHAFT/CONNECTING ROD/MOUNTING PARTS
Is #5 in good condition? Have you replaced the o-ring (#6)?

Engine case:
It's extremely rare but they do crack. Check it carefully.

I usually mark the position, it's good enough to get the engine started. When the engine is running I use a timing-gun.

Yes, it's marks on the sprockets so it's pretty easy. It's rarely necessary to replace the sprockets, most people change the chain, guide and tensioner.
If you decide to change the sprockets you might find the upper one hard to remove, the lower is easier but you need to remove the camshaft.....

I see your point but I wouldn't have done it this way. It's a hassle to install the cables and you introduce several weak points. A vehicle should have only one main-ground connected to the battery.
I can write more about this but by introducing several ground-conditions you increase the chance of fires, periodical problems, burned components and problems with charging and you get a system which is hard to repair.

Basically you want your ground-cable to be short and fat, personally I have it fixed to the lower left mounting bolt but the original position is better because it reduces cable-length.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the original setup but (beside the rotor) BMW did a great job designing this.


Again I see your point but it's difficult to do this without introducing voltage-drops to the system. Voltage drops leads to hard starting and charging-problems.

My pleasure.... here ya go! ATC Circuit Breakers

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Been a while since I was on here. Been building a new house and this year a barn. The G/s is still kicking. Still looking for a larger tank for it and planning on messing with the carbs more this year are the fuel consumption is too much.

The forks are also getting a repaint and hoping to extend the skid further to the rear.

Have noticed a lot of oil leaks with new seals so have a feeling the synthetic oil is going away in favor of old dyno oil.

Tried to comment - >½ of my replies were not encluded...

Your overhaul is well thought through.
There are more that you could do to the frame and stands.

Have a look on these photos of my overhauls/tunings:
Engine heater:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/messages/5/103.html?torsdagden18november19992306

Alternator:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html

www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

Carburetor gooey solution:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html
Click on the link "Nästa Sida" (next page), or copy and past the adress.

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Drive Safely,
Albert

From your photos, you need a new front break rotor. Bin that caliper and get a four pot unit and make up a mount from 10mm alloy plate.

Get your starter checke for the glue holding the magnets in... or buy a Bosch or Nippon Denso unit.

Whats the "metal wax" for... polishing? If its the carbs you want to clean, ultrasound is the way to do it.

Beers,
John

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Nostradamus Ate My Hamster

Thanks for the comments, It's always useful to get input from guys who travel and know the mods that work.

I picked up a r100gs fork set for it and I am trying to find a r100gs wheel which will come with a new rotor. I will be dropping a caliper from a R1100GS oilhead on the R100 forks.

The metal wax is to just remove the surface corrosion that is evident throughout and protect it from further cosmetic issues....I want a pretty bike too...at least to start

So I continue:
1/2/11 update

This morning was spent writing articles to pay for the afternoons fun

I bought a cool parts cleaner called chem-dip (cancer in a can?) To help with the degreasing. Seems to work well. I took the adjustable shift linkage that was all greasy, shaft rusted and frozen and between the dip, a stainless steel brillo pad thing and that metal wax I was able to bring it back to new.

I started to work on the carbs but the cap screws were all screwed up. I was able to pull one, but the other was going to strip. I deep creeped it and hit the second carb preemptively. I'll let it soak for an day and try again tomorrow

I also disassembled the clutch assembly and soaked/cleaned that stuff. This got me thinking. Due to the upgrades i've already bought there is no way in hell I am going to be able to afford to do a pro level restoration. I would like to at least paint the nicks and such, but really don't want to do an ass job of it. I am planning to powdercoating the big bits but the small intricate stuff I imagine will be too labor intensive?

How do you guys suggest painting the clutch and throttle assemblies, and anything else that needs touched up?

From here I pulled the throttle assembly and the old nasty brake line that was falling apart in my hands . Did someone say stainless replacement?
I gave the handbar a quick cleaning and will be removing it tomorrow to transfer to the powdercoat box

Dog was cold again so trekked back to the Yurt. Thank god the buddy heater 2 is coming this week. I hate to say it though; the shed is better set up than my garage EVER was.