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  #1  
Old 6 Sep 2012
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Weak rear brake

I think there is something basic I am missing here....

My rear brake seems weak. The pads and fluid levels are fine but I have to step on the pedal all the way down to get any real effect and even then it seems half-hearted. I don't know how to tell if the brakes need bleeding but in any case, my Haynes manual says I would need a dealer to do this for me as its an ABS system.

I'm sure this is a very basic issue with a simple adjustment to fix it but it eludes my novice brain!

Thing is, last time I took the bike to a dealer he somehow tightened up my front brakes so they were nice and responsive but I dont understand how. The fronts, a month later, are a bit sloppier (I put new pads in a week ago) and I'd like to tighten them up a bit too.

There is of course an adjuster that brings the brake lever closer to the handlebar but thats not it. Same goes I assume for the adjusting nut on the rear brake pedal. I guess these just adjust position and not responsiveness

Thanks for any suggestions
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Old 6 Sep 2012
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Goo,

Common reasons for your rear brake symptoms:

old tired brake fluid or excess air in rear brake line.
solution: flush and bleed rear brake line.

oil or brake fluid on rear brake pads.
solution: replace rear brake pads.

weak seals in rear brake master cylinder or caliper.
solution: rebuild or replace.

As for your front brake feeling a bit mushier after you replaced the front pads recently, I imagine it is a simple matter of bleeding the brake lines. This is probably what the dealer did to tighten up your front brakes when they serviced the bike previously. It is easy to let a little air in the line if you crack the bleed screw to release caliper pressure to allow room for the new pads.

Others may have ideas.

Best luck,
John Downs
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Old 6 Sep 2012
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Sounds a lot like air in the brake lines to me too. The Haynes manual for my 650GS says the same as above. Apparently, bleeding an ABS system requires 'special equipment' that only BMW dealers have. Nuts to that. My old Honda ST1300 had ABS and linked brakes, and the pipework for that was horrendously complicated. Nevertheless, there was a recognised bleeding procedure which was lengthy and complex, but perfectly do-able by a reasonable DIY mechanic. I think this is BMW being a bit precious.

I'm guessing the 'special equipment' is a vacuum bleeder, something like a Mityvac - readily available, if a little costly. Anyone know? (Would be worth bookmarking for when I need to do this to the GS.) Might be worth trying a conventional bleeding method on the rear brake line before calling the cops.
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Old 6 Sep 2012
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Thanks for both those responses. Being as I am in a smallish town in Bolivia and never having attempted to bleed brakes before, any suggestions as to what I might be able to do? i.e. what is the conventional method? Or do I just need to wait until I get to Chile in a week or so?
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Old 6 Sep 2012
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I checked over on advrider and found this post from a fellow with a similar problem with his F650ABS brakes:

Bleeding rear brakes on BMW 650 with ABS? - ADVrider

The trick turned out to be removing the rear caliper and pads, slowly pressing the brake down till the piston nearly fell out, then sitting the bike fully upright (Dakar's lean way over on the sidestand) and pushing the piston all the way back in. Sort of a "reverse" bleed. Problem solved.

This youtube video might help with removing the rear F650 caliper and pads:

Technical Demo on BMW F650 - Rear Brake Pads - YouTube

Seems like something you could try in the field in Bolivia.


Best luck,
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Old 6 Sep 2012
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Thanks John!

Please excuse my ignorance here, but do I just have the piston come nearly all the way out and back or do I need to open a bleed valve as I do this too?
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