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Bodger Fix What they don't show you in the repair manual - tales of duct tape, bailing wire and WD 40. Bodge, Bush Mechanics, farmers fix, patch, temporary repair, or whatever your definition, tell us YOUR best story of a bodge that got you home!
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  #1  
Old 4 Dec 2013
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DRZ400 fixes
Lost a screw out the side of the bash plate whilst in the Caucasus's, it was banging about so I thought it would fall down on one side and cause me to come off.

Stopped and asked a local and he let me look around in his shed and i found some wire which i cut with his axe to make a quick fix and it was fine



My rear fuel tank emptied faster than usually, i found a hole in the fuel line, this was in Kazakhstan on a route where i was not sure how far it was to the next petrol station as people mentioned on this forum that this stretch of road can be remote for getting fuel so i needed a repair to fix it




I drained the fuel out and poured it in the main tank and then fixed the fuel line with my water hydration bag pipe







After it worked fine and i fueled up both tanks as had no worries with fuel on this stretch of road
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  #2  
Old 5 Dec 2013
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I have various bits of wire in my "fix kit"

Plastic-coated soft garden tie wire; easy to cut and bend and also somewhat re-useable.

Thin stainless lock wire

Fence straining wire (maybe 2.0mm) easy enough to bend and cut whilst still being stiff enought to use as a hook or bracket.

Push-bike spokes are a handy source of useful wire. Next time you're in the tip, take some snips and have a rummage.

I also have some stainless-steel cable ties. They are the mutt's nuts for holding exhausts on and very strong.
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Old 5 Dec 2013
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Yes wire is great, plastic tie wraps are a waste of time.

Next time i will just wrap wire around the rear soft pannier frame for when i need it.
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Old 5 Dec 2013
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I'm not sure if the DRZ400S model uses magnesium side engine cases like the DRZ400E does. :confused1: These Mag cases are super soft. My shift lever punched into mine ... minor crack ... but leaking vital fluid out. Temporary solution? Chewing gum!! Worked perfectly, was on there for a week!

Finally got round to pulling the cover off and using JB weld on the inside.
Job done. Permanent fix.

So little ever breaks on the DRZ's (unless you crash hard) I'm amazed any repairs ever needs doing. Over loaded luggage racks will crack on any over land bike used off road. No surprise.

I carry two types of wire in my "misc." kit. 10 gauge plastic covered and thin safety wire. Used it only once ... saved the day.
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  #5  
Old 8 Dec 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
I'm not sure if the DRZ400S model uses magnesium side engine cases like the DRZ400E does. :confused1: These Mag cases are super soft. My shift lever punched into mine ... minor crack ... but leaking vital fluid out. Temporary solution? Chewing gum!! Worked perfectly, was on there for a week!

Finally got round to pulling the cover off and using JB weld on the inside.
Job done. Permanent fix.

So little ever breaks on the DRZ's (unless you crash hard) I'm amazed any repairs ever needs doing. Over loaded luggage racks will crack on any over land bike used off road. No surprise.

I carry two types of wire in my "misc." kit. 10 gauge plastic covered and thin safety wire. Used it only once ... saved the day.
Yes i agree nothing really breaks (the above is just what i added to the bike) only other issues was rear rack bolts which where very brittle (stainless but not 316 grade) and snapped often due to cyclic stress

However i snapped mirrors and indicators often so now i just consider them as consumables but i lost a metal reinforced hand guard after one large fall off but got my moneys worth out of it.

The engine cases for both the E/S/SM are the same and crack easy when dropped, the engines are the same for all the bikes apart from the E being slightly more powerful by 4hp due to a few slight changes (cams,thin base gasket,pipe,ecu ect ect) including the FCR carb.

Pretty bomb proof bike shame oil changes are low miles, i was doing my changes at 3000 miles but now will do it a 2000 miles due to loss of oil towards the end of my trip and false oil level readings
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Old 9 Dec 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesleyDRZ400 View Post
The engine cases for both the E/S/SM are the same and crack easy when dropped, the engines are the same for all the bikes apart from the E being slightly more powerful by 4hp due to a few slight changes (cams,thin base gasket,pipe,ecu ect ect) including the FCR carb.
Sounds like your using your DRZ properly
Glad you mentioned the engine difference or E vs. S model. Having ridden both back to back ... and astounding difference in feel. Not just power ... but the E feels so much lighter. Quite a lot of differences in the engine even beyond what you've listed: Piston and cam too. The FCR carb makes quite a difference ... but a friend installed an FCR on his S model ... sadly, it was still a dog compared to
well tuned E model. I owned my E for 3 years. Never traveled on it ... just local Desert rides and once to Baja for a few days. Good bike over all but the S is the better overlander I guess. My E never used oil, valves stayed in spec and battery never went flat (no kick start). I changed oil about ever 600 to 800 miles. Mine had a very easy life.


Struggling through the sand on my former "E" model DRZ
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Old 24 Feb 2014
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Originally Posted by WesleyDRZ400 View Post

The engine cases for both the E/S/SM are the same and crack easy when dropped
You can get aftermarket engine covers in carbon or aluminium, might protect a bit against harsh drops.
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Old 24 Feb 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
Sounds like your using your DRZ properly
Glad you mentioned the engine difference or E vs. S model. Having ridden both back to back ... and astounding difference in feel. Not just power ... but the E feels so much lighter. Quite a lot of differences in the engine even beyond what you've listed: Piston and cam too. The FCR carb makes quite a difference ... but a friend installed an FCR on his S model ... sadly, it was still a dog compared to
well tuned E model. I owned my E for 3 years. Never traveled on it ... just local Desert rides and once to Baja for a few days. Good bike over all but the S is the better overlander I guess. My E never used oil, valves stayed in spec and battery never went flat (no kick start). I changed oil about ever 600 to 800 miles. Mine had a very easy life.


Struggling through the sand on my former "E" model DRZ
Yes cams have higher lift on the E model but i thought the piston is the same as the S model?

Mollydog where are you getting your information for this as i would like to read up on it
Last edited by WesleyDRZ400; 24 Feb 2014 at 16:34.
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Old 24 Feb 2014
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Originally Posted by Paulharris View Post
You can get aftermarket engine covers in carbon or aluminium, might protect a bit against harsh drops.
I fitted them and are alot cheaper than new engine case's
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Old 24 Feb 2014
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Originally Posted by WesleyDRZ400 View Post
Yes cams have higher lift on the E model but i thought the piston is the same as the S model?

Mollydog where are you getting your information for this as i would like to read up on it
It's been a while Wesley ... I sold my DRZ-E in 2003. You could be right, but a quick look at piston part numbers may answer your question? Or could be it's a different HEAD design (higher compression on E model?) and Piston is the same?

Lots of info can be found here:
DR-Z 400 - ThumperTalk

The kids there talk about ALL DRZ models (K, E, S, SM).
I attended the DRZ400S intro in California ... the Suzuki guys covered some of the differences ... and can't recall every detail but do remember I was astounded just how different the bikes really are. (I think that was in 2001)

USA models had to pass our EPA/CARB regulations ... but I think the S is roughly the same world wide. The E model is Off Road Only ... so fewer restrictions.
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