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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 23 Feb 2009
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I think Aerostich make a Fleece electric vest? Kanetsu?
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Last edited by mollydog; 25 Mar 2009 at 07:55.
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  #2  
Old 23 Feb 2009
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Not sure of the brand but BIKE recently had an article on a heated vest. The jacket could be powered from the bike or with an optional battery pack.

It looked light and windproof and was about £80. It would solve the bulky issue and give you the freedom to keep the warmth going even off the bike. On its lowest setting it could run for 6 hours just of the battery pack. Could be a godsend if you break down.

The jacket didnt use wires so I guess it would be pretty durable.

I have my eye on one but need to try and make my own with the kit first to keep costs down.
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
I do know every rider I ride with has a Gerbing for Winter touring.
This is the one I use, and after riding in minus temperatures with it on and still feeling nice and warm, without having so many layers on that I feel like the michelin man, there is no way I would go back to doing without.

One other thing to keep in mind with the volts watts and amps situation. Amps is the measure of electrical resistance (hence why fuses are rated in amps). A Gerbing jacket draws 77W of power, which on a 12 volt system equates to 7 amps (amps = watts / volts) so make sure you connect it all up using wires and connectors that are rated for at least 7 amps.

I originaly connected my jacket up to a cigarette lighter style adaptor that was only rated at 5 amps, thinking "Oh it will be OK, it will just get a bit warm". This was a mistake, it did get a bit warm as it melted the adaptor which at it's worst could have caused a small electrical fire and damaged other more important bits and pieces. I am now awaiting delivery of an auxiliary fuse box from nippy normans so that I can run all my additional electrical equipment through that, I have also ordered the relay kit from the same page so that the fuse box is only live when the ignition is turned on.
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  #4  
Old 23 Feb 2009
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Current and power
Hi Chris,

All nicely covered above except no one seems to have pointed out that the 225W is the maximum output. Some bikes won't hit this until 4000 rpm. With so little spare power, I'd be careful how you run a 55W vest. On a trail where you are at walking pace and fifteen minutes before each stop, switch it off. Also, controllers use power, as well as the jacket the coil in a reostat is getting warm. Most seem small losses, but i've seen one that used a Scaletrix part that could have been used to toast bread as a sideline

For sake of completeness:

Volts = Amps x Ohms
Watts = Volts X Amps

If you don't know how much power (Watts) an item might use, get the Amp rating off the fuse and use the formula. Unless you have a big alternator you'll scare yourself unless you use a couple of fiddle factors. Assume the battery is only 11.8 volts and all fuses are over rated by about 2 amps and you'll be close but safe. Indicators, the horn, brake light and the starter motor can have their power use reduced to 10% of the fused value due to intermittant use. If you are short of the odd 5 W look for an LED tail lamp, they use next to nothing. LED indicators simply move the load into a resistor block, so you only gain the lifetime, not the power use.

Andy
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
LED indicators simply move the load into a resistor block, so you only gain the lifetime, not the power use.
You know, that makes sense now you mention it, will keep that in mind for my future calculations.
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Many thanks for all your explanations and ideas.

... 225W is the maximum output. Some bikes won't hit this until 4000 rpm ....

Yes, I was wondering about that. It seemed an optimal output figure that would only deliver out on a steady highway, not in town or on slow terrain (tho' negotiating the latter can warm you up).

Does an alternator running at near max also reduce the bhp noticeably, or is this too marginal to notice on anything other than a 125 @ 4000m.

It's a shame to see all that free engine heat blowing away too. I tried it once with hoses from behind an oil cooler running up my sleeves but there must be better ways, especially with water-cooled bikes. I imagine some Siberian motard must have thought of this.

Ch
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
Does an alternator running at near max also reduce the bhp noticeably, or is this too marginal to notice on anything other than a 125 @ 4000m.
If you use 500W you will reduce your bikes power with 0.7-0.9 hp.
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
<SNIP>
It's a shame to see all that free engine heat blowing away too. I tried it once with hoses from behind an oil cooler running up my sleeves but there must be better ways, especially with water-cooled bikes. I imagine some Siberian motard must have thought of this.

Ch
I thought of this a while back and one solution was to wrap a copper/bailing wire line around Exhaust/Coolant Hoses and wind that up to the handlebars.

The issue is how does one control the temperature output.

I do have another solution in the works...wireless heated garments.
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by MotoEdde View Post
I thought of this a while back and one solution was to wrap a copper/bailing wire line around Exhaust/Coolant Hoses and wind that up to the handlebars.

The issue is how does one control the temperature output.

I do have another solution in the works...wireless heated garments.
The watts your electrical equipment use are the same your engine HP could be expressed in. Even if you have 10% efficiency, you've a lot of KW in that engine.

About 70 years ago some very unpleasant chaps organised the worlds most unpopular road trip taking in such locations as near Moscow and Stalingrad in January. Their BMW's and Zundapps although only available in limited colours ( Grey or Sand), did have some interesting optional extras. They had what looked like vacuum cleaner hoses feeding from behind the cylinders into foot and hand guards. These must have done something useful as most military types I've known would soon "loose" anything that wasn't and you do see the heaters on photographs. I've wondered what could be achived with a bit of hose, some 5-litre plastic containers and lots of duct tape.

Even better, I've seen pictures of (I think) a Yam with a hot water line tapped off the radiator. I'm not planning on going watercooled unless there is also a heat exchanger and you can use the water to make tea

Andy
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Old 23 Feb 2009
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Yes, I was wondering about that.
Sounds good in theory,
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Last edited by mollydog; 25 Mar 2009 at 07:53.
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  #11  
Old 5 Mar 2009
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Got myself the oxford velcro on grips they are good warm as toast but do make the grips a little bulky.

Also got a ex02 heated wiast belt great bit of kit and only paid £24 on ebay.
if anything the cable could be a touch longer or made from flexi cable
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