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5 Jan 2016
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Location: Saltspring Island,Canada/Poole,UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barneyrubble
I'm not convinced that I'm going to chew through pads touring. Will replace before I go and am confident they'll last until Europe.
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Fronts you will probably get away with for 15,000kms, but rear pads will get more grit, dust and water on them, which acts like grinding paste, as they are quite a bit smaller than the front pads and you will be using the rear a lot on gravel/dirt roads they will wear quite quickly.
As MD and TT say, fit HD tubes, pack standard tubes, use Rema 'Tip Top' tube repair kits, take several extra tubes of the vulcanizing glue.
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6 Jan 2016
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gipper
Fronts you will probably get away with for 15,000kms, but rear pads will get more grit, dust and water on them, which acts like grinding paste, as they are quite a bit smaller than the front pads and you will be using the rear a lot on gravel/dirt roads they will wear quite quickly.
As MD and TT say, fit HD tubes, pack standard tubes, use Rema 'Tip Top' tube repair kits, take several extra tubes of the vulcanizing glue.
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That's a fair point regarding the pads. Cheap insurance and easy to carry.
Tubes wise, I always run HD tubes and carry the originals. Have done a few multi day outback trips to rocky and dusty places. Wouldn't run any more than HD though, UHD are too heavy and heat up too much on prolonged highway running and degrade. HD tubes are really only needed when running lower pressures to hinder pinch flats. They ain't gonna stop a nail any less than the standard tubes.
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6 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barneyrubble
Wouldn't run any more than HD though, UHD are too heavy and heat up too much on prolonged highway running and degrade.
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Has this been tested or proven ??
I know they run a bit warmer, but degrade ???
Butyl tends to give more when it's warmer. It's more flexible and less likely too tear I would think.
I have no way to back this claim up though.
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6 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Has this been tested or proven ??
I know they run a bit warmer, but degrade ???
Butyl tends to give more when it's warmer. It's more flexible and less likely too tear I would think.
I have no way to back this claim up though.
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I believe Ted's correct here. YES, UHD tubes will get hot ... but would take months ... or years to actually degrade.
I've run across Death Valley and through Nevada's open spaces at 100 mph or better. 100F temps. YES ... things get very HOT but not to the point of real degradation of the rubber. (assuming tube in question is not 5 years old! )
But Barney's got it right, UHD are overkill and hard to fit, patch and carry. HD? maybe, but for me and many, I start off with an HD tube fitted but only carry standard weight, good quality spare tubes. I carry one 21" (front fender) and two 17" in luggage. I prefer natural rubber tubes when available but some Butyl ones really are OK too ... but tricky to patch.
I always try to save a tube if possible but sometimes you have to ride a flat for 50 miles ... so sure death to that tube. If you can stop right away and change it, good chance it may be saved to patch later.
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7 Jan 2016
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Common sense dictates that you should carry ordinary tubes to save space. Fit HD or MD tubes but as said, these offer no more protection againt a puncture from a nail but do help prevent compression punctures when running low pressures which you don't normally, when travelling with luggage. I don't really see much point in carrying 2 spare rear tubes and can't envisage circumstances when you can't repair a puncture when it happens rather than driving 50 miles on a flat tyre. It is important that you carry tubes that are easily and reliably repaired (rubber) and you have good quality patches and vulcanising solution to repair them. UHD tubes are overkill but if you insist on using them then make sure you generously coat the inside of the tyre with french chalk which will reduce the friction between the tyre and tube and help to prevent overheating.
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7 Jan 2016
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Overkill my arse. Only ever run UHD. There is no 17" UHD so ran HD on that on my old bike. Guess which wheel had the flat. Rears would get more flats but still. Thicker lasts longer too I feel.
Last edited by tmotten; 8 Jan 2016 at 17:27.
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7 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnon
Common sense dictates that you should carry ordinary tubes to save space. Fit HD or MD tubes but as said, these offer no more protection againt a puncture from a nail but do help prevent compression punctures when running low pressures which you don't normally
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Actually, UHD or HD tubes CAN sometimes prevent a puncture, not necessarily a BIG nail, but often you get lucky with a staple, small nail or Cactus spine.
I've removed tires (worn out) and found Spines and other sharp embedded things inside my tire that DID NOT puncture through my UHD tube.
But you are correct, a big nail at the right angle is going straight through.
Mousse Bib anyone?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnon
I don't really see much point in carrying 2 spare rear tubes and can't envisage circumstances when you can't repair a puncture when it happens rather than driving 50 miles on a flat tyre.
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On Baja rides going back to the 1980's (at least 12 trips) Tubes have been one of the most common problems we've had. I've seen countless patches fail, multiple flats from Cactus spines. Some occasions we ended up riding DIFFICULT trail AT NIGHT ... because stopping to fix the flat took so long. Cold, dark, dangerous. Not everyone has ISDE tire changing skills.
Steep, hard up hill, not fun AT NIGHT.
Tubes can be repaired if close to town or if you have LOTS OF TIME. But if 30-40 miles from anything ... then spare tubes are life savers. Often, a tube may be destroyed from a puncture, split, no saving it. Especially true if you don't notice the flat right away, as with riding deep sand you may not feel it and your tube is chewed up and ruined. Seen this MANY times. (how many spare tubes you got mate? :smarts
Flat tire? Huh? What flat tire?
NEXT: often guys will cut a tube doing removal or install. Seen this SO MANY TIMES! AND:You always need a spare tube for your buddy. We always use the buddy system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnon
It is important that you carry tubes that are easily and reliably repaired (rubber) and you have good quality patches and vulcanising solution to repair them. UHD tubes are overkill but if you insist on using them then make sure you generously coat the inside of the tyre with french chalk which will reduce the friction between the tyre and tube and help to prevent overheating.
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Yes, having quality patch kit is vital! ... and knowing how to prep the tube for a patch. REAL RUBBER! Yes! But even so, many times patches DO NOT stay for long. Either poor technique, poor materials, or very bad riding conditions.
Other thing not brought up here is SLIME. SLIME is the gooey Green stuff you put in your tube BEFORE you get a flat. In many cases SLIME (or other similar product like Ride-On) can seal a puncture hole.
Especially good against small punctures (thorns, spines, staples, sheet rock screws, small nails) SLIME does not always work but can sometimes at least slow down air loss, allowing you to get to a good place to do a repair (or have it done)Sometimes it 100% stops leak, other times ... not at all. I use it and have done for 20 years. With luck, SLIME can help you.
NOTE: Patching a tube with SLIME inside is quite difficult (impossible?).
A normal bicycle type patch will NOT stick when SLIME is present. If cleaned off really well, a 3rd world HOT patch will work. (a true vulcanizing patch where fire is used) SLIME is water soluble, but since it's INSIDE, hard to fully clean out.
So ... if your tube with SLIME goes flat, don't waste time trying to patch it road or trail side. Take it out and put in your spare. What's that you say? You're only carrying one Spare? So now ... you have NO MORE SPARES?
Above scenarios are why I carry 3 tubes on board. Had too many weird situations where tubes are ruined or used up ... with NO more spares available. Hate the feeling knowing that if you get another flat, you are screwed.
Sometimes, if you have NO spare, you can ride your flat tire to help.
But some bikes are hard to ride flat ... and off road this can get even tougher.
Been there, done it. Horrible ... like 5 hours to make 10 miles.
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7 Jan 2016
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People I know who have done RTW used UHD and they didn't get a single flat. Even riding a lot of off-road.
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7 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Overkill my arse. Only every run UHD. There is no 17" UHD so ran HD on that on my old bike. Guess which wheel had the flat. Rears would get more flats but still. Thicker lasts longer too I feel.
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Over the years I've run both UHD and HD. I now prefer HD tubes over UHD.
Do you carry spare UHD on board your bike? Some are ginormous monsters to pack. True, they last a long time but IMO, are a PITA to deal with roadside.
Metzeler, Michelin and Bridgestone HD tubes I like best. Thick, strong but not so hard to install. All quality real rubber. Here we get MSR tubes (MSR here means Malcolm Smith Racing). Real rubber, inexpensive, good quality. (Japan made)
I do think it's smart to start off with a UHD if doing ONLY very rough, high speed off road. I just don't want to be the guy who has to change it out or repair!
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7 Jan 2016
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My response was aimed at the OP who says his trip is mainly tarmac. I assumed that he would avoid tackling difficult trails after dark. Always best to practice puncture repairs before you set off to improve your skill and test all your kit works properly.
Fitting UHD or HD is a matter of personal choice. For the off road part of the trip tyre choice is still probably more important than tube preference but it all depends on what type of trail you are expecting to encounter - which you probably won't know until you get there, which, after all, is the main reason for going travelling by bike.
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8 Jan 2016
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No, only start off with UHD. Carry standard. Brand is key. Vee sucks. I'll stay away if I can. Just because they're all black doesn't make it all the same quality rubber.
Wear on tubes includes the little balls it develops inside it. The thicker the more it can wear is my thinking. Rode from Dublin to Vlad on UHD through Kazakhstan and Mongolia without a single flat.
I don't even try patching UHD. I hear patches don't stick to it, but I don't even bother. Bit like sticking a plaster onto an elephant.
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8 Jan 2016
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I'll be fitting these to my TT600 for my trip out to Mongolia.
http://www.zenoverland.com/tyres_tub...uhd_tubes.html
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Did some trips.
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Fix them for a living.
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8 Jan 2016
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I have this same UHD Michelin front sitting in my garage now. It's a massively thick thing. You will be stunned when you see it. Stiff as a board, but quality all the way. I've never used it as never planned on such rugged trips that would require it. It's natural rubber so should be patchable.
Maybe tire guys in the far East still use the old (and illegal in USA) fashioned Vulcanized patch ... where they glob some flammable goop onto tube and patch and set it afire .. literally melts tire and patch as one. If done right, truly permanent.
No idea what's used in those parts now, but that method would be my choice over some scuff & stick bicycle patch ... which I've never had much luck with on motorcycle tubes.
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8 Jan 2016
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I use this stuff in my workshop for repairs. Never had a tube/patch fail yet.
http://www.workshopping.co.uk/produc...FYWfGwodCJEDbQ
The trick is cleaning the tube.
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Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.
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9 Jan 2016
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This is what Rema sell in USA, which one would be best to use?
http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=11
Could be "the best" are disallowed due US EPA restrictions ?
Our stuff is probably "kindergarten safe to eat". (but won't hold a patch on!)
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