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23 Apr 2006
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Luz, Haute Pyrenees
Posts: 112
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300 TDi questions
Hi,
I have a 300 TDi with 118,000 on the clock (with a full history, ex utilities). I've had a new timing belt and complete service and it runs really well. Just got back from 3k trip round the Alps and Pyrenees and two or three things have come up - I'd appreciate any advice or ideas from anybody who has a better knowledge of this enging than me...
1). the second injector pipe fractured and the snapped in half. Is this a common problem ? (now replaced and the engine is fine again)
2). I get an occasional high pitch squeal from the front end, which I think is coming from the water pump. Is this the likely source of the noise or is there some other part I should have looked at ?
3). the clutch pedal has less resistance to it than when I set out. The service record I have does not say that the clutch ahs ever been replaced. I'm leaving on an 18 month trip in six months time. Would you get the clucth changed now ?
thanks for your thoughts ...
Simon
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24 Apr 2006
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Hi Simon,
2. The noise could also come from the serpentine drivebelt that drives the auxiliaries.
To test it, just drop some water on it, if the noise disappears that is the cause. It can squel if misalligned, which you might be able to cure by loosening the tensioner, and putting a penny or washer underneath (experiment to find right location) to change allignment. It worked for me.
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24 Apr 2006
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A couple of comments. The mileage you state is no problem for a 300 tdi provided the oil has been changed regularly. I bought one with 124,000 on the clock and did a number of fairly gruelling expeditions with it must have had over 170,000 by the time I sold it and it was still going fine. The engine never failed me once.
Ref injectors I never had any problems.
Ref noise from front end. I have some history here: two failed water pumps and two failed alternators. The bolts holding the water pump in place kept shearing. As you know, the water pump, alternator and power steering pump are all on the same belt which is tensioned by the belt tensioner.
Firstly have a look and see whether the bolts which attach the water pump to the block are intact. Then bend back the belt tensioner and take the belt off and see whether the water pump wheel can move freely and if there is any "play." Seek a mechanic's advise but my recommendation would be to first change the belt, second the belt tensioner and third the water pump and see if it is cured - in that order. It would be worth doing this job yourself as its quite easy and the water pump is a spare I would suggest taking on your trip. Just take your time and follow the Haynes manual.
Ref clutch I would change it before you go on your next trip and get a heavy duty one installed - IMHO the piece of mind make it worthwhile. You may also be getting some slack from the the transfer box and or worn prop shafts though. Again get a professional opinion.
Last edited by ctc; 26 Apr 2006 at 13:33.
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24 Apr 2006
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Location: Gent, Belgium
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Brakes:
It might be worth carrying a spare clutch/brake master and slave cyllinder. I hade my clutch slave cyllinder failing in Etosha national park, meaning one day less game viewing and 200 or so km's driving without clutch.
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25 Apr 2006
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Location: Wiltshire,UK
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Betwem the 2 300Tdi engines that i've owned, i've orobably doen about 250,000miles, and only had one injector pipe break (that was when one of the engines was fairly new, under 1 year old), so i don't think that is really a problematic thing, although keeping a spare set of pipes would be prudent.
the only thing i've had recurring problems with, is the fuel lift pump. again, cheap enought to carry a spare and only a 10 minute job to change.
Definately a good overland engine though!
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25 Apr 2006
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Location: Luz, Haute Pyrenees
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Thanks
Hi,
thanks for all the tips so far. Doesn't really sound like I have too much of a problem on my hands which is great. I've already changed the drive belt, so I'll check it is alighed properly. Just discovered also that water pumps are not very expensive so maybe I'll do that too.
One last thing guys.. what workshop manual would you recommend for the 300 TDi ? My vehicle is a 130. I can't find a Haynes that covers the 300 TDi and the Landrover manual is a bit dense... any other ideas ?
cheers and thanks for the help,
Simon
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25 Apr 2006
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repair manual
If you are planning to take a laptop you could get the LR Rave CD which has the full repair manual on. Not as handy as a book, but saves place.
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9 May 2006
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Update
I've had loads of advice here. I removed the driove belt to discover thta the bearing in the tensioner itslef was badly worn. Fitted a new one and checked all the others - all were ok.... very slight wear on the waterpump which I'll need to do later but not urgent I don't think.
Anyway, have now done another 500 miles and no squeaks or squeals at all. So that problem is solved.
thanks for your help,
Simon
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