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9 Sep 2013
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Just a few thoughts
I've done more laying up of motorcycles than 4 wheels, but no one else has jumped in here after a day, so ........
What I have done is drain the fuel tank and carburettor and spray the tank internally with WD40 to stop rusting (this would not be too easy with a 4 wheeler of course, so maybe consider filling/brimming the tank to expel air - with diesel hopefully, which is somewhat oily, rather than the more volatile petrol).
Use ACF50 spray on the bits that are liable to corrosion, such as the engine components.
Assuming that it is under a roof for protection from the weather then use a lightweight dust cover (for motorcycles there are "air bags" which envelope the whole bike and then the air is sucked out with a vacuum cleaner, or similar, to provide an airless environment, but I have never heard of these in larger sizes).
Disconnect/remove the battery of course, or have a deal with someone to turn over the engine every now and again including bringing the engine up to working temperature.
Drain the old oil and then refill with brand new oil? (on the basis that the new stuff is less corrosive when standing still).
Regarding your specific idea, I have only ever seen military vehicles blocked up so that the weight is off the tyres; that was intended for the sort of duration that you are considering.
Maybe get the underside waxoyled?
I hope this is of some help.
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9 Sep 2013
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Think about vermin! mice and rats. Spray grease stops rust, waxoil or similar inside doors and cavities. I have heard of engines being filled to the top to avoid condensation but I am not sure if that works. make sure you can turn it over a few time before it starts to circulate oil if left at normal levels turning by hand is good. I think a thicker spray than wd40 as it seems to evaporate or dry up. If you can run it every once in awhile it would be better, cars don't like standing.
wax the bodywork heavily.
Graeme
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9 Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graysworld
. I think a thicker spray than wd40 as it seems to evaporate or dry up.
Graeme
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I agree with that: WD40 is what I had to hand at the time!
Also, brake fluid crystallises over time; mine did that (over many more than 5 years though).
It is hydroscopic, but I don't know if it is better to leave the fluid in the pipes or drain them off for the long term ???
And, it's a Toyota, so top up the "red-special" coolant - maybe to a stronger solution than the usual 50/50.
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9 Sep 2013
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you can get bags for cars, I think it's called a carcoon
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10 Sep 2013
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For the engine internals this maybe a good idea:
AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil
Plenty of other options available from boat yards or online I'm sure.
You can definitely get fuel preserver for petrol (it does deteriorate over time) but I'm not sure about diesel.
Oh and assuming it's in a relatively small garage a dehumidifier will work wonders.
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10 Sep 2013
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One year not too bad 5years nightmare ! The only way is very complicated and will require considerable reactivation work as well . I sold a immaculate discovery that we had from new because it became impossible to maintain it without use , even with keeping in a well ventilated garage, the biggest problem is humidity which leads to rusting , corrosion etc . You would be better lending it to someone you can trust to use it a limited amount . JMHO
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10 Sep 2013
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that's what I did with my Landcruiser, put it in a barn where they store caravans and stuff near my mum and dads. once every 3-4 weeks they would take it out for a drive, a good 10miles+, enough to get everything warmed up.
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