Announcements

**africanpete** · #1 18 Feb 2011

Hi

Just thought I would ask all you hardies what you thought about using aluminium split rims in African conditions, can a light weight alloy split rim with a rating of 1400kg really be that bad?

I have heard many tales of people having to panel beat their steel wheels back into shape etc. but have not heard much about alloy wheels, that might be because they are not that popular, I don't know.

Peter

**tacr2man** · #2 18 Feb 2011

Alloy wheels can be a problem if you hit a big hole or rock , as they tend to be less deformable without splitting and then require welding.
A steel rim will tend to bend and be hammered back without splitting .
Having said all that trucks run with alloy rims now !
Its not that frequent a happening from a reported point of view (travel blogs) and with modern steel reinforced radial tyres even punctures are not as common as they used to be . You have to balance out weight saving etc and if you run with two spares you should be pretty right anyway JMHO

**africanpete** · #3 18 Feb 2011

Thanks Tacr2man

What are your thoughts on split rims, be they steel or alloy.

I was thinking of using split rims as it would be much easier to change a tyre if I needed to. Would have a couple of spares and might even take a spare rim if I can find space for it...

**rclafton** · #4 18 Feb 2011

My iveco has split rims and i like them

they are easier to change a tyre on than a solid rim (my 101 had normal rims)

I carry 1 spare wheel/tyre and an additional spare tyre + tubes and tube repair kit

**RogerM** · #5 19 Feb 2011

There might be some confusion over the terminology of "split rims". Maybe you can tell us which one you are writing about.

In truck circles split rims are usually tubed tyres using a circular steel ring to lock the tyre onto the rim and forming the bead, the actual wheel is usually hot pressed as a single piece or welded from two pieces.

In car/hot rod circles a split rim is made up of two or more parts which bolt together, uses tubeless tyres.

Wheel selection is usually based on the GVM of the vehicle, say 1400kg per wheel would allow for a maximum of 5600kg GVM (assuming 4 wheels and not 6), offroad usage would probably reduce the makers weight by a few hundred kgs as well.

**tacr2man** · #6 19 Feb 2011

Further to my last post , I havent come across an alloy 2 piece (or even 3 piece rim) for 4x4 type vehicle . The downside with the usual 2 piece "split rim" in steel is the weight ,and the fact that you have to run tubes, which has to be balanced against the ease of changing tyres.
By running tubeless they generally run cooler, they are more punture resistant, and when punctured they tend to deflate a lot more slowly. It is also often possible to repair without even taking off the axle. There are sometimes when just reinflating will allow you to travel to a better place to repair . Dismounting tubeles tyres is not very difficult if you have learnt the technique. JMHO

**RogerM** · #7 20 Feb 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacr2man

Further to my last post , I havent come across an alloy 2 piece (or even 3 piece rim) for 4x4 type vehicle .

The two/three piece wheels are very common here in Aus. Rim and hub are machined from a billet, spokes are made from plate, all bolted together. Two piece are machined from billets with either the rim/spoke or hub/spoke combination. Manufacturers describe them as "split rims".

**oldbmw** · #8 21 Feb 2011

I have been riding bikes and driving cars since 1961. In all that time I had two vehicles with tubeless tyres on alloy rims. one a ford Cortina, the other BMW r80rt. Both vehicles had issues with air leaking past the rim to wheel seal. It would be a big minus point to me to buy either a car or bike with alloy rims. Not a deal breaker on a bike where there was no choice, but I would walk away from a four wheeler with alloy rims unless there was money in the budget to switch to steel rims. Other peoples experiences may be different. Note I was a rep for over 20 years doing over 50K miles a year with a car and did over 110K miles in three years in the early 1960's on Old brit bikes (mostly Triumph 500). After that bikes were just pleasure riding.

**africanpete** · #9 22 Feb 2011

Hello All

Thanks for all the replys.

Tacr2man - LR brought out alloy split rims made for the D2 (before anyone says anything, yes, I'll be going in a D2 and I'm prepared) They're made by Speedline in Italy for LR, only problem I see at the moment is that's they're 18", saying that, they will suit the 18" BFG's I'm currently running.

Oldbmw - Thank you, I'm not sure on the timing of when you had alloy wheels, if we're talking 20-30 years ago I would of thought that there is a huge difference between todays alloy wheels and those of that era? Has anybody else experienced leakage with alloy wheels? I haven't in 10-15 years of buggering about off road back home in SA and here in the UK, have never used them in anger on an expedition though... I do have some concerns about the split rims leaking air out or letting crap in with extended use/abuse?

RogerM - Thanks for the info, yes these are two piece tubeless

Thanks again
Peter

**andyb43** · #10 16 Mar 2011

This is why its best not to use alloy whilst working at mount Dare in the simpson desert a customer came in after hitting a rock on the track. but the future must go on and you will find thousands of people using alloy so its all personal preferance.

**RogerM** · #11 16 Mar 2011

Geez, a rock? or a small mountain? And I bet he was not doing more than 20kph when the wheel collapsed!

**moggy 1968** · #12 18 Mar 2011

on the flipside, when we went through west Africa in 2 landcruisers, my mate hit a washout at about 60mph. I was behind and thought he had taken his axle off!! the steel wheel was bent into a a U shape. the 'cruiser was unscathed. we got the big hammer out, bashed the wheel back into shape, reinflated the tyre and 30 minutes later were on our way again.
steels every time for me!

**africanpete** · #13 19 Mar 2011

Thank you gents. I think I'm going to stay with my alloys and just take a spare rim, it's light weight and I can stash it on the roof somewhere.

I'd rather change a wheel than mess about with a BFH trying to straighten a bent steel rim, which will probably need replacing anyway...?

I'd be screwed if I were to hit 3 rocks straight after each other, guess it happens...

An update on the split alloys, I've decided to stick with my current alloys, couldn't justify the extra cost just to be able to change a tyre when and if it was needed... Will have to do it the normal way if it does happen.

Peter

**m37charlie** · #14 17 Sep 2011

This is a true alloy split rim (look at bottom of page). Would be great for my U500, would give me 118mm wider track and allow me to use bead locks inside tire beads. The cost over $1800 each.
http://www.accuridewheels.com/bolttogetherspecialty.pdf

Charlie

**RussG** · #15 19 Sep 2011

Seem to be standard fitment on military G Wagens. They look the part but big money.

I guess if one does fail you either dump the entire vehicle or get a new one delivered by Chinook though

http://www.rubicon-trail.com/G-Class/wheels/IFAV.html

Russ