Hi,
The 80series 6 cylindr diesel engine is a solid unit and can be tuned quite nicely - it is used as the base for some marine application pushing out 350+ HP.
Depending on the engine you can do some tweaks to improve performance - with the 12 valve 1HD-T engine (1990-1995), can 'tune' the pump a bit as well as the turbo, although you need to keep a close eye on the Exhaust Gas Temperatures - basically the temps in the head - personally I would only trust someone with a lot of experience in these areas to do the work and then only if they are prepared to provide some sort of guaranatee - if you want to do it yourself, get a temperature probe fitted to the exhaust manifold so that you can monitor the EGTs.
The later (1995-1997) 1HD-FT engine with 24valves was slightly detuned for part of the rev range (to reduce emissions) so doesn't pull as well as the 12 valve before the turbo kicks in and there are some well know tweaks to the pump that you can do to reverse this - see the technical pages at
Welcome to Land Cruiser Owners On Line - Hosted By Offroad Online Australia Pty Ltd. The other thing you can do with the 1HD-FT engine is to block of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation bits that are also added on for emissions - both of these are the sorts of things you can safely do yourself.
Ideally if you can afford it the two main areas to improve the performance on the 80 series engine is get a better exhaust system (the big front box is very restrictive) - upgrading to a high quality 2.5"-3" exhaust can make a reasonable difference to turbo response and power. The exhausts aren't cheap, although in France there are some reasonable options available.
The other big upgrade is to fit an intercooler - fitting the intercooler lowers the temps in the engine and allowing you to then increase the turbo boost and increase the fuelling which can provide a 20-30% increase in power and torque.
The intercooler option is expensive, but makes a big difference and if you aren't too heavy footed can also help with economy when coombined with a decent exhaust. I know one chap in the UK with a 24 valve manual 80, intercooler and 3" exhaust averaging 32-35mpg.
The best intercooling kit in Europe comes from Maarten at
Toptab Themeset - he does a lot of performance tuning on LCs and is a wealth of knowledge.
Many get nervous about doing performance tweaks on overlanding vehicles, but you don't really have worry too much with the 80 series engine, just put a decent wire mesh in front of the intercooler (fits in front of the radiator) to keep stones out and you should be OK.
Going back to a more basic level, with the 80 series you should ideally service the injector pump and injectors every 100,000 miles to make sure they are working correctly.
If you have bought an 80 for overlanding with full serive history the chancces are that this work hasn't been carried out - dealers tend not to do and servicing on the injectors, injection pump, CVs, wheel bearings, brake disks, etc - they only ever touch them if there is a problem so these should all be checked on a new vehicle - something I always recommend as part of the baseline serviccing of a new (to you) vehicle.
Getting the injection system serviced isn't cheap particularly depending on who you take them to - some companies insist on replacing all servicable parts with new, which can get very expensive - I use some lovely old fashioned injection engineers in Swindon (UK) and got my pump stripped and serviced as well as all 6 injectors serviced for £335 - there were problems with one or two of the injectors and they also replaced all the seals in the pump and a couple of other bits.
This was at 150,000 miles on the car (a little late) and the consumption afterwards fully loaded with 2 roof tents on the roof was about the same as the car before the service running around empty, so I am hoping that once I have cleaned it out from our trip to Morrocco the average consumption will be greatly improved.
And finally, if you do get the pump and injectors done it is also worth getting the valves checked at the same time. On the older 12 valve models they have shims which are a little fiddly and a bit costly to get replacement shims (I needed new shims for 10 out of the 12 valves) - the 24 valve engine has adjustable tappets so less of a problem (and cheaper).
And if you have gone that far, you might as well replace the cam belt and idler - removing the cam on the 12 valve makes it a lot easier for working on the shims.
And... if you have a 12 valve, it is also worth doing the big end bearings - the main fault with the 80 series is that you can have problems with the big end bearings degrading with European oils - there is no hard and fast rules about the age of vehicle and types of oil, but if you are preparing for a RTW trip it should be on your list.
It took me about 2-3 days of workshop time to take off and refit the injection stuff, do the valves and do the Big end bearings on my car before my trip to Maroc and was well worth it - the injectors and pump needed the service 10/12 valves needed adjusting and 2 out of the 6 bearing sets were severely pitted which would have leant to early failure.
I have worked on a lot of 80s used for people going overlanding and it was great to finally get out to Maroc to experiencing things myself.
My next mission over the summer is to start padding out the ELCO website with some technical docs on prepping 80s etc and providing a bit more tech info like the above.
Landcruisers are used all over Africa (and the world) in standard form so the most important thing when planning your overlanding or RTW trip is to make sure that is is well maintained before you start bolting all the extras on, something most 4x4 companies seem to forget about - hopefully the articles I am working on will be able to help even the most non mechanical overlanders pluck up the courage to check and work on these things themselves.