Albania

[Ralf1150GS]

Hi to all of you!

I will be riding to Albania and Kosovo this summer. Can anyone suggest nice locations down there - dirt roads, camping grounds, points of natural or cultural interest???

Thanks a lot you guys!

[henryuk]

Lake Ohrid for beauty spot, Tirana at rush hour for an eye-opener!

[Andysr6]

Hi, A fun and easy dirt trail about 70 km long in Albania is from Peshkopi to Kukes, some amazing scenery, pity i didn't photograph it. Andy

[Ralf1150GS]

...sounds good!
mmmmh: nice foto!!!

This is our plan (until now): crossing the GR-AL-border down at Konispol, have a look at Butrint and ride up to Gjirokaster.
Peremet-Korce-entering MK at Prespa Lake and then to Ohrid Lake.
Peshkopi-Burrel-Kruje-(Tirana???)
Komani Lake ferry to Fierze, Bajram Curri-Kosovo: Dakovica, Prizren-Brezovica-Prishtina-Pec
Crna Gora and finally riding homeward north.

... what about good ideas on this route?

[Ralf1150GS]

...thanks for the "bunkertrail"-hint in your pm,these maps are already stored on my ZUMO!
As well I´ve downloaded the OpenStreetMaps yet.
And even the "reise-know-how" map Albania 1:220.000 is already mine...

So maps are not the problem, just good hints: trails, bays with sandy beaches and clean water, cheep restaurants & hotels...

[PanEuropean]

Hi Ralf:

I rode through Albania 18 months ago on my ST1100. Although I certainly wasn't looking for any dirt roads (the PanEuropean kind of prefers pavement), the dirt roads appeared by surprise. So, you certainly have the right kind of moto for Albania if you are riding a GS.

Some thoughts for you, based on my experience:

1) It's quite a delightful country, and the people are very nice. Even the cops are nice - I was stopped a few times in roadside spot-checks, and as soon as they saw I was a tourist, they smiled and waved me on without further questions.

2) Until 20 years ago, there were only about 500 cars in the whole country. Now, everyone has a car, typically a 10 to 15 year old Mercedes Benz diesel that couldn't pass the emission standards in Europe, or a brand new Cadillac or Lexus that was stolen from a dealership in the USA and shipped over in a container to Albania. The whole concept of 'driving' is new to Albanians. I doubt very much if there is any effective enforcement of the requirement to have a driver licence. I am sure many drivers do not have a licence of any kind, they are self-taught.

What this means is that you have to be very alert and very defensive when riding. The majority of the Albanian drivers are merely incompetent, but there are quite a few that are downright dangerous (and probably intoxicated). Never make the mistake of expecting someone to follow the rules.

3) Road conditions vary greatly. I remember riding along a beautiful stretch of 4 lane divided highway - with a Swiss-quality surface - and then suddenly it ended and changed into a dirt road, with no warning, no signs, no notice of any kind. Scared the crap out of me and I just about laid the bike down due to the 20 cm drop from the end of the paved surface onto the dirt surface. So, be VERY alert to sudden changes in road conditions, missing manhole covers, large potholes, etc.

4) The coast highway is wonderful, really beautiful. Don't fail to ride the coast highway. It is quite desolate, have a full tank of fuel and bring some food with you when you start out.

5) If you use a GPS navigator, don't trust it in Albania. I had an up-to-date set of the best Garmin maps in my Zumo, but still wound up on dirt tracks, cow paths, long-abandoned roads, etc., even though I had the road avoidances set up for 'pavement only'.

The physical placement of the roads on GPS navigators will be more or less correct (in other words, if the GPS says there is a road there, it will be there), but the road characteristics (paved, dirt, highway, rural lane, etc.) are not yet present. Many roads are simply not shown yet on electronic maps. So, put more faith in paper maps than in your GPS.

6) Vehicle theft is a big problem in Albania. If you have a nice, new, shiny motorcycle, take appropriate precautions when you are parking it overnight - put it in a locked garage or other locked compound. In my case, I stayed at hotels, and was always able to put it inside the hotel garage. The hotel-keepers offered this service automatically.

7) The Albanians will accept Euros, but they really don't like doing so. ATMs that you can put your home bank card in and get local currency out of are few and far between. Credit cards are not widely accepted. So, get sufficient Albanian money at the border to keep you going for the intended duration of your stay in the country.

8) Although I had no concerns about my personal safety while I was in the country, I am aware that there are a few isolated rural areas that are 'beyond the law'. These are discussed on the travel advice sections of various major government websites (UK, Canada, US, etc.). So do your homework, and avoid these areas.

Everything is cheaper in Albania than in the surrounding countries. In particular, prices almost triple when you ride south out of Albania into Greece. So stock up on gas, cigs, etc. before you leave Albania.

Kosevo is also delightful, but much more 'advanced' than Albania.

Enjoy your tour!

Michael

[Keith1954]

I agree with everything Michael [PanEuropean] above says.

The coast road heading down to the Greek border is very dramatic.

When you visit Tirana, I can thoroughly recommend the friendly Center Rooms Oresti Hotel, which is right in the heart of the city. We paid 35 euros /night for a nice room, including breakfast, when we stayed there in early June last year (2015).

Secure underground parking is available next to the hotel's entrance. Pay the parking lot gate attendant - a nice ol' boy that can't speak a word of English - 2 euros per night to keep your bike (or car) down there.

Btw, we took a look at the very popular - and cheaper - rustic-themed Tirana Backpacker Hostel, but it wasn't for us. I guess we're just too old for that sort of set-up. My 'hippy' days are well and truly over. Besides, I wasn't absolutely comfortable with the idea of leaving my bike in the communal courtyard there. It didn't feel secure enough.

Btw, the "café culture" in-and-around the street bars and other hang-outs in Tirana was an eye opener for me. WARNING: Around the city, everyone (without exception) has an iPhone stuck to their right ear - it's a social imperative!

[sgt_raffie]

Of the top of my head, if You are crossing over to Montenegro I really reccomend the road along the Shkoderskie Lake on the Montenegran side. Amazing. And see if You can find time to grab some fish while there, it was very good

[ccaa]

It is never too late to answer.

[Lowrider1263]

If you are in a hurry don't do the coast road from Greece its lovely but very slow going, just across the Greece border there is a place where you can cross the river on a small barge it costs one euro very pretty , when I did it in the rain when I was on my 1150gs with conti tkc80 they were on there last legs, I think I nearly pooed my pants on more than one occasion that day, I didn't have a problem with currency I had euros and leek everywhere took euro, montinigro is a must some really good trails and that's everywhere, don't push your self as Some routes have a dead end I mean a dead end straight off a cliff, camping is easy on trails it's quite, good look enjoy

[duibhceK]

Originally Posted by sgt_raffie

Of the top of my head, if You are crossing over to Montenegro I really reccomend the road along the Shkoderskie Lake on the Montenegran side. Amazing. And see if You can find time to grab some fish while there, it was very good

That is a pretty nice road indeed. But if you prefer some amazing mountain vistas, take the SH20 road from Koplik to Plav, entering Montenegro near Gusinje. 2 years ago it was still almost entirely unpaved, but last I've heard they are already over half-way through with laying tarmac.

[sgt_raffie]

Originally Posted by duibhceK

That is a pretty nice road indeed. But if you prefer some amazing mountain vistas, take the SH20 road from Koplik to Plav, entering Montenegro near Gusinje. 2 years ago it was still almost entirely unpaved, but last I've heard they are already over half-way through with laying tarmac.

Thanks for that.
I`m planning to go back this year and see the North-east part of MNG and Albania.

[LGreeene]

Drymades is a beautiful area

[PanEuropean]

Originally Posted by duibhceK

....last I've heard they are already over half-way through with laying tarmac.

If normal Albanian construction practices are being followed, "half-way through with laying tarmac" means that one or two kilometers will be paved, then the next one or two will be dirt, then some more pavement for a kilometer or two, etc.

Keep your eyes wide open whenever you ride through a construction area in Albania. Believe me, I have been there, done that, & bought the T-shirt.

Mcihael