Back in the 90s I used to encounter a lot of dodgy police and border guards in Hungary and Romania. Sometimes they wanted some "backsheesh" (cash) but a cheaper option was to come prepared with a bottle of something or even a package of coffee (really - you used to be able to give civil servants a package of coffee as well to reduce the amount of bureaucracy you normally had to deal with). I remember that the lorry and mini-bus drivers used to just pull out a package of coffee and hand it to the border guards and then drive off.

In Romania, there's still a lot of corruption but it doesn't seem to be as bad as it once was. I think that with the recent push to eliminate corruption (at least among civil servants) and the large number of foreigners who are now living and travelling in this region, fewer cops are so blatant about asking for a bribe. But maybe it's just that now I can speak Romanian so they don't see me as an easy mark.

I haven't had any hassles in Hungary for a long time.

I travelled Europe last year, got stopped by the police 4 times, once in Romania where I genuinely was speeding - actually keeping up with the traffic, there aren't really any motorways in Romania so all the Turkish & Hungarian truckers use the same roads as you will, and if you're in the way they'll happily try to force you off the road. The cop just gave me a warning though.

In Ukraine they just wanted money, but I think there is a tendancy for people to know that's what they expect and just give it to them. I was prepared to do that, but tried just saying "I don't understand" a few times. Not only do they not have very good English, the ones that stopped me seemed to be very reluctant to actually ask for money - they seemed to rely on the fact that you would understand the subtext and play your part, but if you just didn't follow the script (not getting angry or anything) they gave up. It may have helped being a girl on my own, I heard stories from guys travelling who found the cops to be more agressive.

Re time I would say that's a long way to go in 3 weeks, not saying you won't make it but make sure you don't fix in your head "I have to get here", if you don't get to Asia it will hopefully be because you've had lots of interesting experiences on the way.

Re budget my 4 months cost me about £5000 so you should be fine!

Have fun, good luck, and enjoy!

Laura

Hi Fatbot, regards police and made up charges.....In Montenegro's capital, around 11pm I followed the Montenegran car infront as the green filter light came on. Just round the corner were too police and a parked police car. "You just rode through a red light". Well what can you say to that? My documents were to be held until I returned with cash from a post office...next day. I dumbly asked if there was more than one post office in town. They gave up, handed back my documents and wished me a good visit. The woman from the car was meantime really livid. A definite case of a stitch up. I'd expect that not driving after about 9pm would reduce the chances of this one. It pays to appear not be "well travelled and experienced" sometimes. Montenegro is magnificent and faultless for travel with only some dodgy police tactics to criticise. Absolutely do not be put off by this. Just try to act stupid, if fleeced try to be phylosophical about it. Don't hand over cash, play it out. Lindsay.

In Romania I can say that the amount of crocked cops just stopping you and inventing charges has decreased close to 0. On the other hand they bought more speed traps and are using them to give fines instead of increase the traffic safety.

Too many times I've noticed cops hidden in the bushes or just after a corner after a long stretch of straight road just waiting just to catch you. So you should be careful on speeding.

Also, one of the most scenic roads in Romania ( Transfagarasan - link) will probably still be closed during April so yes, maybe it is better to revers your route.

If by any change you need any information, help or advice regarding to the Romanian leg of the trip please do not hesitate to contact me.

Go for this!
It's a good tour schedule, enough money, good timing, all replies you've got are right, I mean really helpful and correct info. You can believe me, I've done the Budapest to Istanbul, as tour guide several times, it's an amazing area.
Need more info or ideas? Mail me.

FTH motorcycle rental & tours

I did a route very similar to yours in 1997, taking 3 weeks (don't remember total mileage) and it was a bit of a rush. So maybe keep your route and timings flexible.

I did another trip around E. Europe in 1999 with more time, and went again to Istanbul in Oct 2009 (again open-ended timescale en route to Africa).

Never any trouble with police, but I always practice (once outside of western Europe) having a big smile when being stopped, and as quickly as possible extending my hand for a handshake. The further east you go the better that's received. Nearly always they just want to chat about your journey and your bike.
But, if you're caught in one of the numerous radar checks there's usually no way out. And as has been said here, the fines in Turkey are expensive, a steep sliding scale depending on your speed.
Glad to hear from nomadb that the limits are a little more reasonable now!

Are you still planning to go along the Black Sea coast, presumably in Bulgaria?
I did that in 1997 and there was plenty of camping and cheap hostals, with the road mainly right next to the beach.

In 2009, what a change! The whole coast is now a continuous ribbon of package-holiday type hotels, no camping anywhere, despite our recent maps showing camping sites still existing. There were concrete hotels where every campsite once was. And worse, in October it was right out of season with nearly all the hotels closed. Lots had "For Sale" signs strung across them so I think they had built far too many and business had been bad.
Maybe wild-camping is possible right away from the main roads but we didn't check.

If there are scenic inland routes away from the Black Sea coast I think they might be better.

Istanbul's a great place, and Turkey in general - hope you like tea, you'll be offered plenty of it!
Have a good trip.

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TTR250 - London to Cape Town