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  #1  
Old 11 Jul 2007
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Side stand foot modification

Hi all,
I want to weld (or get welded as i dont currently have a welder) on a larger foot for my Africa Twin side stand, What is the best size plate to get put on, so that it offers maximum support but does not interfere with the swing arm?

Also anyone know of a good welder in Birmingham UK?
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  #2  
Old 11 Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xander View Post
Hi all,
larger foot for my Africa Twin side stand, What is the best size plate to get put on, so that it offers maximum support but does not interfere with the swing arm?

Also anyone know of a good welder in Birmingham UK?
well I don't know what the AfT stand is like, but I have seen a stand for rally KTMs, (sorry can't find a pic) they just have a slightly wider and longer bottom plate, supported with a small stiffener rod welded to the side of the stand in about 45degree angle down, that supports the longer end and creates a sort of triangle. the size would be about a 2inch by 4-1/2inch plate with rounded corners replacing the standard round end of your peg the plate should be located not quite in parallelwith the bike if down if you look at it from the back view forward, rather a bit towards the rear wheel 160degree is better. that say the plate will lift up slightly to 70-80degree from the peg at the far end but flat on the ground all the way. (just the angle about how you would place your food to get a solid stand)

you only have to care that the mod don't catch the swing-arm if folded up

...||
...||
...||
...||\
...||.\\
...||..\\
...||....\\
=======

forget the dots... they are only there to get the graph right...
some thing like that will do to spreed the weight....

for welding try some Land Rover (not a official LR-Dealer), Agriculture or HGV workshop, there are always mechanics riding bikes as well and they know how to butch around and well used to special conversions... be nice they can be your friends... thell them storys about a doggy workshop in Africa or even better the US with a smile in your face.... they will do a top job than... a local biker pub is a good source for a chapy with a welder or mechanic having a pint.... at least some one who knows to cut corners....

spooky
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Last edited by spooky; 11 Jul 2007 at 16:39.
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  #3  
Old 11 Jul 2007
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Like Spooky I don't know what an AT stand is like but for my last two bikes I bought one of the plastic pads that you can get from eg M&P or Halfords that you put under the stand on soft ground and bolted it to the end of the stand. (ok you've got to drill the holes!)

Both of them have been fit and forget. The first one, on a XR600 is about five years old and survived a trans Sahara trip without cracking or breaking as well as years of regular use. Converting it back to std is just a case of undoing the bolt.
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  #4  
Old 11 Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by backofbeyond View Post
I bought one of the plastic pads that you can get from eg M&P or Halfords that you put under the stand on soft ground and bolted it to the end of the stand. (ok you've got to drill the holes!)
yes right the plastic disk that what I use, but instead of bolting it on to the stand, i drilled a small hole in to the disk rim and tighten it to a thin nylon cord with a loop on the other end to it, the cord has the right lengths so I can hang the loop to the handle bar, easy just to pull it off the stand while you are sitting on the bike already and stuff it in to the pockets....

spooky
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Old 12 Jul 2007
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I use a 10x10cm aluminium plate, same construction with a cord to the handlebar as Spooky.
I store it in my tankbag. I think I use the same thing for more then ten years now and because of the cord, I never forget to pick it up. Cheap, simple and reliable.
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  #6  
Old 12 Jul 2007
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Xander

I wish you'd checked my sidestand out at Ripley!

Mine is the size of a 20 pack of cigarettes, in a pear shape; the fat bit looking out and away from the bike. You can use a disc too. Use any shape you like actually. I used 2mm thick mild steel. Dont make it too heavy or it might weigh the stand down when retracted.

The position is easy - just hold the plate against the stand in the up position to check it clears everything. Then lower it into the usual down position and weld it. I always put the earth clamp as close as poss to the weld area.

IMPORTANT! do not weld it till you have disconnected BOTH battery leads. IMPORTANT!! ESSENTIAL!
Look what happened to that cameraman on the "Wrong Way Round". (none of them read the HUBB enough or he wouldnt have fried some circuits.) But you don't have big bucks and BMW to pull your chestnuts out of the fire.

Some say disconnect regulators etc. I never have. Some say take off the fuel tank; I used to but dont any more. It's your choice. But do attach this foot - it's one of the handiest things I did on my bike(s).

PS You could attach the new foot to the old with 2 bolts till you get it welded -the bolt heads will gradually wear away on the ground but that doesnt matter. Once it's welded you can take them off with an angle grinder in seconds. Or use countersunk bolts/screws. That's what I'd do if I didn't have a welding machine. I'd help you out but my welding gear is in France.

Last edited by Caminando; 12 Jul 2007 at 13:40.
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  #7  
Old 12 Jul 2007
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Thanks to all for there advice.
Quote:
I wish you'd checked mine out at Ripley!
CAM, I did actually, just not with a ruler! I like the idea of it being welded.. I have a plastic puc now.. and it can be difficult getting under when you are fully loaded ...blah blah.. so i think i will go with the weld and forget...

Now I just need to convince SWMBO that i need a welder in the UK as well... (maybe easier to just rent..)


Quote:
IMPORTANT! do not weld it till you have disconnected BOTH battery leads. IMPORTANT!! ESSENTIAL!
Look what happened to Boorman on the "Wrong Way Round". (he didnt read the HUBB enough or he wouldnt have fried some circuits.).

Some say disconnect regulators etc. I never have. Some say take off the fuel tank; I used to but dont any more. It's your choice. But do attach this foot - it's one of the handiest things I did on my bike(s).
I am in the take the battery out camp (as i have had the ground re-hit the battery although i was not welding at that second.. so no damage..)
And am Very much in the disconnect and tape over the plug of the regulator camp.. I had to replace my XTZ regulator after a 2 second weld (battery on the work bench 3 metres away)..

I also clamp as close as possible to the weld , as it is cheaper/easier to hit/weld your clamp and replace that then anything on the bike..
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Old 12 Jul 2007
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Thumbs up

Thanksfor info on the regulator disconnection. I'll do that in future! PS my bike was in the brick shed next to the JCB. so well done for checking the stand!

In France, my welding machine only cost £50. It's a Nordika.
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  #9  
Old 12 Jul 2007
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Would it not be easier to take the side stand off, then take it to a welder
If you have some steel plate, draw round the side stand foot before removal.


Trophymick
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  #10  
Old 12 Jul 2007
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Entirely possible.
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  #11  
Old 13 Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caminando View Post
Thanksfor info on the regulator disconnection. I'll do that in future! PS my bike was in the brick shed next to the JCB. so well done for checking the stand!
That is why i checked it out.. I was going to get water saw an AT in the shed and had to look... (although until you described your foot i didnot actually know whose bike it was)
Why was it in the shed anyway?
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Old 13 Jul 2007
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xander View Post
That is why i checked it out.. I was going to get water saw an AT in the shed and had to look... (although until you described your foot i didnot actually know whose bike it was)
Why was it in the shed anyway?

I just shoved it in because the shed was there, and it saved the bike from 4 days of constant rain (I arrived on Thursday). I got a right slagging of course!
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  #13  
Old 19 Jul 2007
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Cam,
Any news on that screen?
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  #14  
Old 20 Jul 2007
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Smile

Quote:
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Cam,
Any news on that screen?
Check PMs...................
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