You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though...

__________________
2000 Africa Twin
http://two-up-ona-twin.blogspot.com

1)Battery problem


From Sambor: Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off.

now i had changed it to a yuasa maintance free battary. its about 11.5V at the battery when it is off. is this normal?

From Xander: all the battery specifications u gave me does not meet my test but now the bike is running ok for the past 14 months. the issue is when the battery is going to break down again? it will not give any warning before hand. it will happen on the last straw.

2) Clutch

From Tedmagnum:
You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly.
Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly.

bike is not crawling in first gear. When i fully engage the clutch and drop to first gear from neutral, the bike starts to move. Suspect: the clutch cable is lengthen thro time... will that be possible?
Also when i give a gas and the change of gear have made easier.


Hey Xander...
I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite)
This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ??
A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too.
In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage.
I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about...
Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something...

From Xander:
What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
Good question. I couldnt contact my mechnic now. I saw him taking the clutch plates apart and he ask me to buy a can of glue, the kind of glue for sniffing, also the kind of glue for tyre puncture patch. No idea what he use the glue for.
What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615.
Im using 20-50 semi-synt.
Also how much oil is in it when this is happening..
After crusing at 4000rpm for a distance, i stopped and the bike die off when i engage clutch on gear one. The idling became lower and weaker. Then i check: the engine oil is low.
Suggestion one is to look at the oil..

If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand? Yes, i have. if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here.

Ok, will try it. will let u know hows the situation.
Change clutch cable..... tough job for me, never did it or seen how to do it before.
Do i need to take out the tank to change the cable?


Tedmagnum: You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though...


3) RPM at 3500 with 80km/hr
im using front 16 and rear 43 sprockets.
after with many advises from you guys, i think its really the weight issue.

4) Engine oil burning issue

From Sambor:
Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2

Yes, im using K&N. I only made the angle of the exhaust lower so the aluminium pannier could fix on its top. Im using semi synth, 20-50. currently in columbia where it is abit humid but doesnt make much difference when in colder countries for the engine issue. Is it better to change to original airfilter?

From Tedmagnum:
2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !!
You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere.
Yes... oil burning or leaking.... but where?
On the left side of the engine, i think where the valve is, there is something that we could open with a big allan key. There seems to be dirt collected there. I could see very clearly because oil leaks out and dirt sticks there. Is it related?
Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn.
Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ???
How to check the valves, head gasket or piston ring are too worn. Could they be replaced easily?



From Xander:
Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster...

My last valve clearence was done in Germany, 1 year ago. I wasn´t able to witness the repair. That was at km25000. now my bike is on km60000 and had not done any valve clearance. Im in Columbia now, going to panama next week and heading to america. (hope the swine flu is cleared in mexico) along the way i dont think there is anyone reliable to do my valve clearance. If valve clearance is not done periodic, what will happen?

Xander, Tedmagnum and Sambor, thanks for the advise. I am really a mechnic idiot.... but willing to try.

First thing Singaporedream.

Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ??

Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar)

Mechanic using glue on your clutch ??? I AM VERY WORRIED !!

Battery: Your battery should have 12.5V when bike is off. If not, the battery is not healthy or it is not being charged by the bike properly.

Oil: 20w/50 is SEMI sythetic is fine for the AT as long as it is for motorcycles !! If it is for cars then there may be additives which are bad for motorcycle clutches.

If oil is seeping from the LH side round hole then yes, this could explain your problem. It only needs a rubber 0-ring but it might be hard to find the correct size. Make sure it is tight.

Valves: How many miles since valves checked ?? You should really check every 12,000 miles but the AT seems to stay in spec for a good while longer.

If they are bad, you will lose power, economy and in bad cases, make the top end wear out quicker.

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

just change engine oil today without oil filter. only drain out less than 2 liters. also the K&N is full of dirt. does it affect?

Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ??

Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar)

tedmagnum:

i couldn't stop the wheels with my foot or hands. my foot nearly got into the mudguard with the force of the wheel.

i put bike to main stand, start engine and ask my wife to pull clutch level in, step to gear 1. i am behind and try to stop the wheel.... negative.. too strong. is there something wrong?

yes.. That is wrong.

With the lever pulled in, you should be able to stop to wheel with your foot or very light braking.

Your clutch is not disengaging properly. Either the cable is too slack and not pulling enough on the clutch arm or something more drastic is wrong inside.

You need to fix this NOW !!

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

bike doctors, i really hope my bike could enjoy his last moments. a transplant must be done by a professional, not in central america.

thank you for all the care and concern for this patient.

will keep updated for any improvement done to his 11 years old machine.

goh

solved???

finally i managed to made it to Houston, TX. Got to the mechnic at "Houston Bike Exchange' and i must say that Tommy is the best salesman ever lived!

Clutch issue: he suggested me to use the fully syntetic engine oil. with out my acknoledgement, he test drove my bike, ride into the workshop and ask his mechnic to drain my old engine oil and start working.

he said he is afraid that if he is going to get parts, he couldnt get any so changing the engine oil might help.

It has been 40000km since that i have not do any valve clearance. he made the mechnic to do a compression ratio on my bike, results:

front 160pounds
rear 140pounds

where the XRV manual stated: 185. that means that i have to do valve clearance!

he tried to show me some wierd stuff in his workshop saying that he do not know how to do valve clearance.

results: i ended up paying for US$245.29 for something which i can do myself like changing sparks plug, engine oil and oil filter.

then i test ride the bike,

with that oil, it became worse!

he just try to escape my question, made it complicated for me by using all the technical terms where i do not know. also one of my spark plug was stucked inside because the thread was broken. i wanted him to do the job but he said it should be ok to leave it inside. com'on, sooner or later i would need to change that spark plug!

what can i do? is all american workshop like that? i am dissappointed.

Hello Sing...

1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V
BTW. You choose very good battery

4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America?

Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT.
Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter.

greetings

Sambor

I don’t know much about the AT but K&N-filters and high oil-consumption is not unknown.
Basically it might lead to premature wear of piston-rings, carbs and valves/seats. This again leads to high oil-consumption and loss of power.

Some more information here: Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better: Nissan Articles: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

hi Alibaba.

will try out the original air filter and let u guys know the results!

20W50 is the correct oil for most of South America.

When I was there, its all you could usually buy anyway.

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

Did the mechanic use glue instead of gasket cement when he replaced the clutch cover? Oops, you'll have fun removing it!

Hi Sambor!

[quote=Sambor;240826]Hello Sing...

1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V
BTW. You choose very good battery
tks. i dont understand by: check your voltmeter first. u mean check the voltage of the battery at it´s terminal end? i check it at the relay starter point when the engine is off. same? also when i bought the battery the brasilian only fast charge for 3 hrs.

4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America?
i will try to get original air filter if i can find along the way. i think airfilter contribute a part to the mystery of missing engine oil.

20w50 not to be use in hot weather? hmm... i want to study about that. its cheaper in my case and i think the bike still run. whats ur recommandation for hot weather?
Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT.
Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter.
thanks for ur advise Sambor.... i will keep it in good shape!