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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 6 May 2009
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Singapore
Posts: 157
1)Battery problem


From Sambor: Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off.

now i had changed it to a yuasa maintance free battary. its about 11.5V at the battery when it is off. is this normal?

From Xander: all the battery specifications u gave me does not meet my test but now the bike is running ok for the past 14 months. the issue is when the battery is going to break down again? it will not give any warning before hand. it will happen on the last straw.

2) Clutch

From Tedmagnum:
You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly.
Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly.


bike is not crawling in first gear. When i fully engage the clutch and drop to first gear from neutral, the bike starts to move. Suspect: the clutch cable is lengthen thro time... will that be possible?
Also when i give a gas and the change of gear have made easier.


Hey Xander...
I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite)
This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ??
A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too.
In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage.
I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about...
Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something...


From Xander:
What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
Good question. I couldnt contact my mechnic now. I saw him taking the clutch plates apart and he ask me to buy a can of glue, the kind of glue for sniffing, also the kind of glue for tyre puncture patch. No idea what he use the glue for.
What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615
.
Im using 20-50 semi-synt.
Also how much oil is in it when this is happening..

After crusing at 4000rpm for a distance, i stopped and the bike die off when i engage clutch on gear one. The idling became lower and weaker. Then i check: the engine oil is low.
Suggestion one is to look at the oil..

If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand?
Yes, i have. if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here.

Ok, will try it. will let u know hows the situation.
Change clutch cable..... tough job for me, never did it or seen how to do it before.
Do i need to take out the tank to change the cable?


Tedmagnum: You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though...


3) RPM at 3500 with 80km/hr
im using front 16 and rear 43 sprockets.
after with many advises from you guys, i think its really the weight issue.

4) Engine oil burning issue

From Sambor:
Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2

Yes, im using K&N. I only made the angle of the exhaust lower so the aluminium pannier could fix on its top. Im using semi synth, 20-50. currently in columbia where it is abit humid but doesnt make much difference when in colder countries for the engine issue. Is it better to change to original airfilter?

From Tedmagnum:
2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !!
You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere.
Yes... oil burning or leaking.... but where?
On the left side of the engine, i think where the valve is, there is something that we could open with a big allan key. There seems to be dirt collected there. I could see very clearly because oil leaks out and dirt sticks there. Is it related?
Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn.
Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ???

How to check the valves, head gasket or piston ring are too worn. Could they be replaced easily?



From Xander:
Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster...

My last valve clearence was done in Germany, 1 year ago. I wasn´t able to witness the repair. That was at km25000. now my bike is on km60000 and had not done any valve clearance. Im in Columbia now, going to panama next week and heading to america. (hope the swine flu is cleared in mexico) along the way i dont think there is anyone reliable to do my valve clearance. If valve clearance is not done periodic, what will happen?

Xander, Tedmagnum and Sambor, thanks for the advise. I am really a mechnic idiot.... but willing to try.
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