I dropped my KLR and broke off the plug for the rear brake cylinder. I changed the bake pads and was able to breed the line somehow for the brake to feel tight. The problem is that I tried to remove the plug with an extractor and the extractor bit broke inside :-(. The brake works great with the new pads and I do not see any leaks, should I be concern?! Going on a Mexico trip for 3 weeks this comming wk.

Thanx for any advice,

Greg

"Plug".....?

Whatever you mean by that, it's not out of the question that you order a protector for that rear master cylinder: overpriced, but easily installed and removed with two bolts. Worse things can happen than a broken "plug." I've forgotten who makes them, but I'm sure you can turn one up, or just make something yourself.

I've never found a way to remove a broken easy-out; far better not to break them in the first place. A friend once used a cutting torch to remove one from an engine block, then welded in a chunk of scrap iron, then drilled and tapped it. Sounded torturous to me. They're extremely hard, therefore brittle and can't be drilled. If pliers, heat and other obvious methods fail, I'd just replace the cylinder at my leisure.

Hope that helps.

Mark

edit to add: Oh, you mean the wheel cylinder, not the master cylinder? That makes more sense. Never mind any of the above.

Greg,
This is a tricky one. But it sounds like your bike is good to go if the brake is working, not dragging and not leaking fluid. So I think you're fine for your Mexico trip. Worry about fixing things when you get back. Rear pads should last 10,000 miles or so. I would do some riding and using the rear brake to make sure all is OK. No leaks? Good to go.

A good machinist can probably extract the old broken Easy Out. Or maybe you can do it without destroying the caliper? Be careful. Most time, tapping the Easy Out will loosen it and it will fall out and be able to be pulled out.

Once you remove the broken easy out, this is what I would do:
First, soak the broken bleed bolt with WD40 or Penetrating oil and let sit over night.

Buy or borrow a SNAP-0N (or other HIGH QUALITY) Extractor to pull out the stuck bolt. Good technique in the use of this tool makes all the difference. If you are not sure what you're doing, let a machinist do the job, or good mechanic. Experience counts on this one.

You risk destroying the Caliper, but no big deal, lots of used ones on Ebay for cheap if you need another.

Bleed bolts are notoriously brittle and kind of get corroded and welded in place. That is why it broke. You need to bled your brakes more! Twice a year is good! Moto brake fluid absorbs moisture and becomes ineffective.
Change twice a year! Better braking, less fade!

Good luck, just take it easy and slow. Think about what you're doing.

I once had a seized bleed nipple on an older bike which sheared off...I got a metalwork shop to drill it out, rethread the calliper and put in a larger diameter bleed nipple. Worked fine. The alternative is just to replace the calliper, should be plenty about in the US.

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Mike


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If all else fails, spark erosion may be the only way to remove a hardened easy-out. Probably more cost effective just to try and buy a used one from the wreckers?

Never done it on a bike, but as someone who grew up driving rusty old cars in Wisconsin, I've had bleeder screws break on car wheel cylinders, and I was always able to bleed the brakes by loosening the banjo fitting where the brake line attaches well enough to get a decent pedal. Not saying you shouldn't fix it properly, but it will work in a pinch.

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Andy Tiegs
https://new.horizonsunlimited.com/ts...lsouth-america

Pay to have the broken nipple removed or replace the caliper before any big trip. Better to deal with it at home then on the side of the road.

I just received a pair of speed bleeders from Arrowhead Motor sports. They have a small ball v/v machined into them which will make bleeding the system much easier for one person.

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