Durability Upgrades for a KLR-650?
I am planning on spending a few years riding the world on my (2005) KLR 650 (inspired in no small part by this site!  ) and am looking to pick the brains of all you who have picked this same bike for similar trips.
I'm finding more ideas on what can be upgraded than I can shake a stick at...but mostly from pre-trip planning (Such as this post, it occurs to me  ). I'm hoping mostly for feedback from those who have been on a KLR for long who can give input on what was a good idea to upgrade, what was a waste of money/weight, and what was missed that should have been changed.
VITAL CHANGES- doohikey: No need to elaborate here
- Stainless Steel Break Line (Front): Increases safety in emergency stops
- Rear Master-Cylinder Guard: Protect the cheap plastic from a crash
- Wiring Hardness Upgrade: Increased headlight output
- Carb Vent Kit: Needed for water crossings
- Low-profile magnetic oil drain plug: In case of narrow misses with a rock & trapping engine debris.
- Subframe Bolt Upgrade: Don't want these to sheer off from vibration!
- Radiator Fan Blade (metal): Stock plastic blade is too easily damaged
- Serrated foot pegs: For water & mud. Dual Star or IMS?
- Enlarged side-stand foot: Stock is too small for soft surfaces
- Folding Shift Lever: Less chance it'll break. MSR or IMS brand?
- Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards & spoilers: Better protection for controls than stock
- Sealed Bearings: Increases longevity
- LED flashing break light: Type that only flashes for a short time. Increases visibility & decreases power use & eliminates bulb use.
- Progressive Springs (rear): Stock is insufficient for long-term heavy loads.
CONVENIENCE UPGRADES- ATO fuse upgrade/relocation kit: More durable & easier to reach
- Progressive Springs (front): Better overall performance & longevity
- Billet Oil Filler Cap: Needs wrench to open - prevents people from putting in things they shouldn't. For peace of mind mostly.
- Break system speed bleeders: For ease of maintenance
- ScottOiler Dual Injector: Improved chain life & ease of maintenance
- LED Turn Signals: More durable than standard bulbs.
- Stainless Steel Oil Filter: Because a non-reusable filter may be hard to find.
REJECTED FOR WEIGHT, EXPENSE, ETC.
- Stainless Steel Break Line (Rear): I can already lock up the rear break at will
- Centerstand: Not worth the weight. Use a length of tube to raise either tire & double as other uses.
UNKNOWN - FEEDBACK ON USEFULNESS?- Drive Chain with a Master Link: Am I correct that the stock chain has no master link? Should I use an X-ring or O-ring chain? Clip or Rivet style master link?
- HID Headlight: Need to find either a full HID headlight replacement (not just bulb) or HID driving lights.
- Heated Grips: Is there enough need to justify the cost & power usage?
- IMS Fuel Tank: Provides longer range & radiator protection, however cap does not lock.
- Happy-Trails Nerf Bars: Protection worth the weight? Not for use with IMS tank.
- Radiator & Reservoir Guards: Alternative to Nerf Bars for less weight (or if using IMS tank).
- Fork Brace: I've never felt the need. What benefit would it provide?
- Water Pump Guard: Is this worth the cost?
- Skid Plate: Is the added protection really worth the extra weight?
- Locking Axel Nuts: Will the self-locking mechanism hold up throughout the trip? If so, better than cotter pins or hitch pins.
- Locking rear-axle alignment nuts: Undecided if better or worse than stock dual-nut system
There you have it! Fire away with your suggestions, alterations, additions, rants, and raves. Please give your justification for each suggested change!
Last edited by othalan; 24 Sep 2007 at 05:04.
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