Hi there.

When I mean 3mm washers it is the hole that is 3mm diameter for the needle to fit through. The actual washer is less than 1mm thickness.

Let me know how your performance is with the 112 main jets and N96J needles.

Thanx.

Hi!
Just going to inform you; going to order the jet needles tommorrow; just sent them a mail, asking if they could order them, which they could, so if everything should work as "planned", I will probably get the needles quite soon
(Not that cheap, around 21$ each needle, but think it can be worth it, knowing that the "balance" should be OK between the jet needle and the main jet, and I'll go with the 110 main jet which is allready "installed" in the carbs, as the difference between 110 and 112 could not have such a great effect)

Hi again.

I bought two #112 main jets and installed them today. Standard N60D needles with one spacer washer and DNA filter installed. I tested the bike and it pulls nicely up to about 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 to full throttle it splutters and does not pull. Cant seem to understand the problem? I promply returned the original jets.

I was thinking of going the milder route and keeping the N60D needles. Perhaps going up to #100 on the left and #98 on the right. Did your bike pull a lot better with the two #100 jets? What model is yours again. Mine is a '07.

Any thoughts on that?

Hi. I am driving a -99, but if your machine doesn't go well from 3/4 to full throttle, it is an indication that the main jet is too rich; have you modified the airbox? The snorkel on the newer KLEs (including mine) are too small to work well with the bigger jets, so if you are going to use them; you will need "more air" to compensate for the bigger main jets (but that will also affect the air/fuel ratio everywhere else, which could mean that it could go lean in normal riding (which is usually affected by the needles)). Getting this dialed in correctly can be hard, since there are many factors that can effect this (which is why I will just get two similar needles from the older kle (N96J), as that will probably make the "balance" well too.

Edit: The change from 92, 95 too 100, 100 did actually make a difference, but going from 100, 100 to 110, 110 did have a really nice effect on the performance. B.T.W. do you have two identical needles (N60D) or two different needles (N96L and N60D)?

Edit2: An extra tip: if you want to get things dialed in correctly with your current needles and the 112 main jets, it could require some time, because even if you get the machine to run well at full throttle, the transition between the needle and the jet could still not be well. If you are lucky, shimming could fix this, but the length of the needle is not the only factor that comes into play when getting the needles to work well. There are more things, like taper and the diameter of the needle; will they be correct when you are using 112 main jets with N60D needles shimmed? Who knows, you could get it all correct. Here's a page that will explain a lot on how carbs are working, if you are interested (unless you have allready read this and/or have knowledge about this allready ): Dan's Motorcycle Carburator theory and Tuning

Hi there.

Yes, both carbs have the N60D needles. The N96L needles are not a option on the parts fiche. On the parts fiche for the 06~07 model they list a few jet size options. Apart from snorkel on the older KLE airbox I think that the physical size/volume might be different. Can that affect things? The older model airbox has different part no's, so perhaps it is mached to the 112 sized jets. The only other option is to use the 112 jets with the N96J needles as you mentioned the profile of those needles are different to the N60D and thus mached to the 112 jets.

I have ordered the N96J needles and the larger airbox snorkel from my local Kawasaki dealer, but it is 4-6 weeks ex Japan. Can you beleive it! Thanks for the info, its greatly appreciated as although I have a mechanical/electrical background I am learning as I am going on.

Before I forget. On the parts fish for the 1995 model there are five different vacuum valves (slide and diaframe). On the 99 model there are three. On the 07 model there are two, one is a 27kw version. How do you know if you have the right one for your new jet/needle set-up (112 & N96J) and what do the differerent ones mean? :confused1:

Hi!
First, the airbox should be similar; from what I can see, they have the same part number, the only difference is the snorkel (Actually, there is a 1992 airbox in my 1999 KLE, and I compared them both when I had them, and I could not see any noticable difference (The older airbox is from my older KLE, though do not own it anymore)). To compensate for the smaller snorkel, I drilled two 8mm (I wrote 5mm before, but I remember that it were 8mm) holes, which made the machine run fine, but perhaps a third hole could be needed; when you get the part, can you measure it with the old snorkel? Could be interested too see how they differ in area.

About the different slides; I'm sorry, but I did not even know about that! I actually don't think you will have any problems installing the 112 main jets and N96J needles with the new snorkel anyway, but these are just speculations.

UPDATE: I drove for 2 hours today, and actually did a lot of testing to see the response with my current setup, and I think I am going to stay with the original needles (shimmed), as I can not feel any kind of hesitation nor struggling; it's running like a champ! The spark plugs more or less have the same "colour" on the base ring (no sign of it running lean).

There's one thing I think is strange, that there is no way to tell the measurements on the needle from their codes. I mean, if you check FCR 32-33, the first digit shows the taper, the 2:nd and 3:rd gives you the length of the needle, and the last digit gives you the diameter, but you can not measure the needles in our KLEs the same way. I've spend countless of hours to see if there is an other way to read the needles, but when I found a chart of different needles, I could not spot any pattern, as a *64* needle could be larger than a *84* needle (and sometimes smaller :confused1, and same went with the diameter and taper. I am actually going to take the needles out soon and measure them too see the difference between them. If you could measure the N96J needles when you get them (the length and the diameter is enough), I would be greatfull!

(I'm sorry about the whole "change of heart", when it came to the needles from my part, but I somehow feel that shimming the original needles should work (40+ dollar is a bit too much I think for something that could not be necessary, when I think my machine is running super!))

Edit: 4 - 6 weeks?! Ouch, that's a long time to wait! I hope everything will work fine when you get the parts, though!

//Mollrik

Hi again!

OK, so I have changed my mind. I have ordered the needles and the 112 main jets today, since I felt a small stumbling going WOT > 120km/h, and really can't bother myself with shimming, as it could fix the problem, maybe not.
I want to ride the KLE, not fix it all the time to get it run perfect with the current setup, and as I described before, the two needles I have now are different, so I decided it would be easier just to get the "correct" parts

Hopefully, everything will go fine with the new needles (will take around 4 days to get the parts)

Hi.

Perhaps you should also change the airbox snorkel to the larger one and put the original air filter back. Then you know everything is stock and take it from there.

This was posted on advrider if anyones intrested in a pic of the different snorkels
Quite surprising the difference in size
http://winweb373.sr23.firestorm.ch/t...ltertuning.pdf

Hi

It just shows how the newer model KLE 500's are restricted.

OK, now I have installed the new jet needles (N96J). I have to tell you, that there's a big difference between the N96J needles and the N96L and N60D. The N96J needles length is similar to the others, but it's a lot thinner (there's a noticable difference). OK, everything installed, I decided to take it for a test run. I drove up to the closest highway, but still, it were stumbling, so I were thinking to myself how this could happen. Anyway, I decided to let it breath more, so I added 2 more holes (still using the small snorkel), and damn! A huge difference! It's going way past the speed limit (around 175km/h where I tried it, (perhaps I could got a bit more of it, but doublty), which should be good?) and now it runs like a champ!

Hi there.

I am glad you finaly got your bike sorted out. I am still waiting for my N96J needles and larger snorkel.

Are you using your DNA air filter and have you shimmed the newly installed N96J needles? What grade of fuel are you using over there? I am using 95 unleaded here in South Africa. It will be interesting to put the bike on the dyno and see the power/torque improvement.

BTW. Can you check your fuel economy as I was wondering how this new set-up will affect fuel consumption.

What is your air-screw setting? How many turns out?

I was still wondering what the different vacuum valve (diaphram) options are for? You will see them on the parts fiche eg. 1995 model. If anyone can shed some light it would be helpful.

Hi! Yes, I am using the DNA filter, but the small snorkel, so I am compensating it with holes in the airbox. I know I could have gotten the other/bigger snorkel, but I didn't (which could have been better, but oh well). No, I have not shimmed the needles, and I really don't think it's necessary (will probably go rich then, as the N96J needles should work fine with the 112 main jets, and it will affect the fuel economy, and could also lower the HP) Just to clarify; the N96J needles are a lot thinner than the older ones, so there's no doubt that it's going richer in that particular circuit right now

Edit: Sorry, missed your part about the fuel. I am running unleaded 95 fuel up here in Sweden


Edit2: Ahh, yes, I'll check the fuel consumption as soon as I'll fill her up again


Edit3: OK, I really have to slow down. My current fuel mixture screws(air screws are for 2 strokes, just wanted to point that out :P) are 2 3/4 turns out with stock pilot jet (the Ninja/GPZ/EX 500 normally has 2½ turns out with the same pilot. I tried lowering it with a "quarter" before, but as it were running worse, I tried 3 turns out, but that was too much, so I therefor stick with 2 3/4 turns ) I can't answer your questions about the diaphrams though, sorry

Thanx.

Interesting about the air screw setting. On the '07 KLE 500 the spec is 1 3/4 ~
2 1/4 turns out. Do you know what the exact air screw setting spec is on the full power KLE 500 model? The one with the #112 main jets and N96J needles ('95 model). I am sure the GPZ/Ninja/EX 500 jetting/needle set-up will be slightly different to the old full power KLE 500 and thus the air screw setting maybe a bit different. Could be wrong. This is the only thing I am not quite sure about.

Hi.
Not sure about the amount of turns for the full power KLE 500, but if I am correct; I read somewhere that they should be around 1 3/4 turns, but no guarantee though.
Not sure if this is the right thread for this, but if the info will ever be needed; here's the carb specs for the GPZ 500...

Pilot screw (turns out) : 2 +- 1/4 (FG, AR), 1 3/4+ 1/4 (ST), 1 1/2 +- 1/4 (though the last setting for US is on the lean side (hanging around on a GPZ 500 forum too))

float height : 17 +- 2mm (same for the full power KLE 500*)
Main jet : #130 (#112 for the full power KLE)
Main air jet: #100 (same for the KLE 500*)
Needle jet: 16017-1208 OR 16017-1059 (US) (can't find anything for the KLE here)
Jet needle: N36N (N96J for the full power KLE)
Pilot jet (slow jet): #35 (Same for the full power KLE 500*)
Starter jet: #50 (#52 for the full power KLE 500*)
Throttle valve angel: 11 degrees (same for the full power KLE 500*)

* the newer ones (KLE 500) also have these settings

I though that this info could be interesting for comparison if someone want to go even further with their carb settings.

note: the jet needle have no function whatsoever in the pilot circuit (except for the transition). When there's no throttle in "play", the butterfly valve (think that's the name for it) is closed, therefor, only the pilot circuit is "active".