Hi

I managed to find a Service Manual for a 1991 ~ KLE 500. It is in German and I cannot understand a word of it. The only thing I managed to figure out is that the air screw setting spec says 1 1/2 turns out.

If you can understand German I can email the manual to you.

Hey!

I have a german manual as well, but same goes for me - didn't get much out of it!

Used it to look at the carb settings, but couldn't find anything (perhaps mine's different from yours?)!

If you can find out more about the carb settings (from the manual (sizes e.t.c.)), I would like to have it!

Hey again!

OK, thought that I should make an input about the new needles, as I've tested those now for around 200km (and still doesn't have to switch to reserve, even with some "aggressive" testing involved). The N96J needles are A LOT richer, and by that I mean a lot. If you remember; i had 2x8mm holes drilled on the back side of the airbox, and it went fine in that particular circuit with the "lean" needles. Now, with the newer ones, I added 2 more holes, but that was not enough, as it was still going rich, so I added 2 more holes, and now things are starting to become better.

No stumbling whatsoever, accelerates fine now, and there's enough power to actually make the KLE more fun to drive (is there such thing as "enough" power? :P).

I'm quite positive that I have reached the 50hp (if not a little extra due to the exhaust and DNA filter, if so, +1 or so).

PS: I'll give you more updates when I've gathered more information about the fuel consumption!

/Mollrik

Hi

Sounds good.

Your KLE 500 ('99 model) lists the compression as 10.8:1 and mine ('07 model) lists it as 9.8:1. I was wondering what effect this will have on my slightly lower compression bike when I change the jets/needles like yours.

Any thoughts?

Hey!

First of all, I thought that I had 9.8:1 compression too, but seems like I was wrong (did some browsing around aswell, and 10.8:1 seems about right!). I doubt that you will encounter any problems, even with the lower compression.

/Mollrik

Hi

I have just installed the #112 jets, N96J needles and larger snorkel. I have put back the original air filter as I wanted to keep everything within the original spec.

I took the bike for a short spin around the block and there definately is a great inprovement in the performance. It pulls stronger and revs quicker. It probably is not so fuel/air starved anymore. I set the air screw at 1 3/4 turns out. The spec says 1 1/2. The N96J needles are a lot thinner.

I will take the bike on a longer run this Sunday and see how it goes. From what I have felt on the bike so far this easy mod is highly reccomended if you have a newer "greener" KLE 500 and want to squeeze out a few extra ponies without too much fiddling and fuss. I am a bit two minded about re-installing the DNA air filter as I am not sure how this affect the air/fuel ratio's and the performance. I gave the bike a good caning (WOT) and there was not any stumbling or hesitation.

To sum up the parts to change are as follows: (Kawasaki OEM part no's)

14073-1481 Duct, Intake (larger air box air intake snorkel)
16009-1657 Needle-Jet N96J
92063-1117 Jet, Main #112 (main jet)

I will report back on my Sunday ride.

Forgot to mention. I got the main jets from another dealer. The main jet is not a genuine Kawasaki part. It is inscripted " 112 Factory K " I was wondering if the size shown on this jet (#112) is the same size as the genuine 112 jet. It physically looks exactly the same exept for the inscription. Any thoughts?

Hey!

Nice to hear the good news

My main jets are not genuine either, and they are working just fine!

I doubt that there should be any problems with your jets

Give me more updated after your long trip, as I am interested to hear your results; my KLE runs great with the new carb parts too, but, I do not have the big snorkel (running with DNA air filter AND er-5 exhaust)

edit: I actually do no think the DNA increases the "air flow" that much more. Of course, it's better than stock, but do not think by much, so I don't think you will encounter any problems. If any, I think your KLE is running rich now, as they older ones are famous on that part (have several sources that can point that out, if you are not too sure about that), so I think installing the DNA will actually be a good thing!

edit2: If you are wondering why I am using the ER-5 exhaust, see this link, and the images below, as it describes the tuning process of KLE, but it doesn't include the jet sizes Tuning 500 KLE (not even the original german texts includes it, as I've read that one through (translated, ofcourse))

Here are some dyno graphs for the KLE 500

Original (48 hp):


(original site: KLE-Tuning2)

Modified airbox/filter (54 hp)


(original site: KLE-Tuning3)

Modified airbox/filter + yoshimura exhaust (the point is the equal headers) (58 hp)


(original site: KLE-Tuning3)

And, here's the bonus! KLE 500 with GPZ 500 camshafts (with all the modifications listed above; I will not use those camshafts, of course, as they lower the low and mid range hp, and too much hazzle, I think. It says 65 hp on the translated page, but I think 63 is more correctly)!



(original site: KLE-Tuning4)








/Mollrik

Hi

Wow! Thats some serious gain in HP. As you said its a bit pointless installing GPZ 500 cams because it takes away the low/mid range on the KLE and that is where you need it on the bike. I wonder if those Dyno Graphs are showing power at the wheel or if it a optimized crank figure. If it is at the wheel, then its a serious improvement. I will re-install my DNA filter after my long ride and see how it goes.

If you check your spark plugs some time, then let me know how they are burning. (pics)

Hey!

I can more or less guarantee that those are crank horsepower, not back wheel horse power. Why? Well, the GPZ 500 makes around 50 hp stock, and 52 hp with the famous "FoG airbox mod". Getting more than 52 hp at the wheel will drastically lower the engine life. The GPZ 500 has 60hp at the crank, and around 62-63 with the FoG mod, so it's most likely at the crank!

edit: even if the graphs above lists the crank horse power; just modifying the airbox and change exhaust is well than enough (58 hp if done "right", but that's probably not the case for us with the 112 main jets, as we will probably need bigger ones and modify the airbox even further, but I think what I have now is enough ). The big bonus with the ER-5 exhaust is - less vibrations AND I'm positive it have gained some horsepower in the higher RPMs . About the spark plugs; I'll probably take some pics later on, as the last time I checked (4 holes, 6 now, and still a bit too rich :P); It were running rich!


/Mollrik

Hi

I went for my Sunday ride and I must say I was quite impressed. The power gain is very noticable. It pulls a lot stronger and harder. I took the revs to about 9000 and there was no hesitation, flat spots or stumbling at all. It is running perfectly

Ok, so the KLE is not a superbike but this small mod for is definately worth while as it makes the bike more fun to ride. Bigger grin factor. I am sure you can do more if you want to get carried away, but I pesonally think that this is enough. If you realy want loads more power then I think its best to get a bigger bike.

I am going to try it out with the DNA filter sometime this week. It should be a little more responsive. I need to clean the DNA filter before I install it as it is a bit dirty after a weekend of gravel road touring recently. Apparently you need to get a DNA universal cleaning kit.
I will also be keeping an eye on the fuel economy. I am sure it will be around the same as the previous set-up.

Forgot to mention: I did a high speed run on the highway on Sunday. It was a long flat straight run with no wind and I could only get 165 km/h (WOT) and not a km more. It stops dead at 165. The bike gets to top-speed very quickly, pulls great, but the top end was less than I expected. I wonder if the DNA filter will sort it out?

Any thoughts?

Hey!

Nice to hear that everything went fine!

I am thinking about getting the larger snorkel myself tomorrow, and duct tape the holes, as I should probably get the correct amount of air that way, instead of speculating around as I am doing right now with holes (I still have the feeling that my machine is running rich).

If I'll get the larger snorkel, using the DNA air filter, and the ER-5 exhaust, I might actually get one size larger main jet too (115, main jets are darn cheap (2$ a piece) anyway, so feels stupid to be greedy about them (and the snorkel is not that expensive, either)), as the ER-5 exhaust is "flowing" more, and the DNA filter itself also helps.

What are your opinions about this?

/Mollrik

Hi

Yep, I think it is worth a try.

As you say the old spec KLE's ran a little on the rich side so I guess a liitle more air/flow will not hurt.

BTW, Do you have the ER-5 headers as well. If so how does the ER-5 header pipe fit under the KLE sump plate. (pics) I still have the original headers with a custom made slip-on tail piece. Will send a pic later.

I have also decided to remove the "clean air system". The vaccuum switch, pipes etc. The early model KLE's did not have this. I have ordered the OEM blanking plates and gaskets. I dont see the point of this gimmick as it seems like extra maintenance.

How do you think this will affect anything (performance etc.)? Any thoughts?

Hey!

OK, I have bought the 115 main jets today, but of course, the snorkel have to be ordered from Kawasaki, so I'll get it in 1-2 weeks!

That darn snorkel costs around 20$ (actually, I more or less were expecting something similar), but now I'll get it!

I'll give you more details when I'll get the snorkel!



Ohh, about the ER-5 exhaust. I removed the sump plate (if you mean that metal "plate", under the exhaust) for it to fit, but other than that, it worked fine! (had to make a custom "exhaust holder", but it fits well onto the cylinders, so you just need something to hold it there!).

I'll take a picture of the headers later (today or tomorrow), but for the record, they are equal length, but I understand that a picture might still be of interest!

To tell you the truth, not sure what this "clean air system" is, so if you could shed a light to this, I would be thankful

/Mollrik

Hi

Apparently the "clean air system" takes air from the air from the air box and injects it into the two exhaust ports. Someone can correct me on this.

Hey!

OK, here are the images, though the quality is not that great (specially the second image, but I think you can see what it should be), as they are taken by a crappy mobile phone, but I think these will do!
(perhaps I should have changed "light mode" on the camera, but nevermind, here they are :P)

edit: I also found this picture of the ER-5 exhaust, so I thought that I could include it here as well!

source: http://i30.twenga.com/3/tp/09/80/125...67970980vb.png

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