I would like to do the same on my bikes carbs. Do you have the Kawasaki part numbers for the 112 jets and N96J needles? I can't seem to find them anywhere. My local dealer works in Part Numbers only. Dont forget to check the vacuum slide springs as they might be a different stifness to the newer one.

I have a genuine parts manual if you are interested. It covers 06 ~ 07 KLE 500. Can email it. Quite handy.

Forgot to mention that I placed two 3mm spacer washers under each needle. It definately made a differance. There's a bit more torque, but the fuel economy has gone down a bit. (Jets still standard 95;92.)

OK, I found the part number for the 112 main jet, and it is 92063-1117 , but it seems more or less impossible to find any part number for the N96J needle - really impossible. I found the info about the main jet at Kawasaki's spare part page, but searching for N96J doesn't give any results back

(Couldn't even find KLE 500 as an available model, so I had to look for other models with 112 main jet, so I went for EN-500, which should work fine)

The following URL gives all spare parts for 500cc bikes from kawasaki, and as you can see, KLE 500 does NOT exist
https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SystemSe...SearchBy=Model

Update: The part number for the N96J jet needle is 16009-1657

Update2: It seems like the older KLEs are using the same vacuum spring as the newer one, as you can see from these two sources
KLE -92 : kawasaki carburetor parts partsmanual fiche 1992 a2 kle500 (this page can also be used to look for carburator parts on the older KLEs)
KLE -00 (as in 2000) kawasaki carburetor parts partsmanual fiche 2000 a10 kle500

I hope this is what you (including me, as this have been of great interest to me as well) have been looking for


Extra note: b.t.w. 2x3mm washers on each needle? If I am not incorrect, that should make a huge difference, and I mean huge (as in going really rich); sure you do not mean 2x0.3mm? If you really used 2x3mm washers, did you not feel any kind of stumbling? How much did it affect your milage? I only used 1 single 0.5mm washer on each needle, and think it improved the performance (ofcourse, in the middle range) noticably, but not sure if it's enough

Hi there.

When I mean 3mm washers it is the hole that is 3mm diameter for the needle to fit through. The actual washer is less than 1mm thickness.

Let me know how your performance is with the 112 main jets and N96J needles.

Thanx.

Hi!
Just going to inform you; going to order the jet needles tommorrow; just sent them a mail, asking if they could order them, which they could, so if everything should work as "planned", I will probably get the needles quite soon
(Not that cheap, around 21$ each needle, but think it can be worth it, knowing that the "balance" should be OK between the jet needle and the main jet, and I'll go with the 110 main jet which is allready "installed" in the carbs, as the difference between 110 and 112 could not have such a great effect)

Hi again.

I bought two #112 main jets and installed them today. Standard N60D needles with one spacer washer and DNA filter installed. I tested the bike and it pulls nicely up to about 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 to full throttle it splutters and does not pull. Cant seem to understand the problem? I promply returned the original jets.

I was thinking of going the milder route and keeping the N60D needles. Perhaps going up to #100 on the left and #98 on the right. Did your bike pull a lot better with the two #100 jets? What model is yours again. Mine is a '07.

Any thoughts on that?

Hi. I am driving a -99, but if your machine doesn't go well from 3/4 to full throttle, it is an indication that the main jet is too rich; have you modified the airbox? The snorkel on the newer KLEs (including mine) are too small to work well with the bigger jets, so if you are going to use them; you will need "more air" to compensate for the bigger main jets (but that will also affect the air/fuel ratio everywhere else, which could mean that it could go lean in normal riding (which is usually affected by the needles)). Getting this dialed in correctly can be hard, since there are many factors that can effect this (which is why I will just get two similar needles from the older kle (N96J), as that will probably make the "balance" well too.

Edit: The change from 92, 95 too 100, 100 did actually make a difference, but going from 100, 100 to 110, 110 did have a really nice effect on the performance. B.T.W. do you have two identical needles (N60D) or two different needles (N96L and N60D)?

Edit2: An extra tip: if you want to get things dialed in correctly with your current needles and the 112 main jets, it could require some time, because even if you get the machine to run well at full throttle, the transition between the needle and the jet could still not be well. If you are lucky, shimming could fix this, but the length of the needle is not the only factor that comes into play when getting the needles to work well. There are more things, like taper and the diameter of the needle; will they be correct when you are using 112 main jets with N60D needles shimmed? Who knows, you could get it all correct. Here's a page that will explain a lot on how carbs are working, if you are interested (unless you have allready read this and/or have knowledge about this allready ): Dan's Motorcycle Carburator theory and Tuning

Hi there.

Yes, both carbs have the N60D needles. The N96L needles are not a option on the parts fiche. On the parts fiche for the 06~07 model they list a few jet size options. Apart from snorkel on the older KLE airbox I think that the physical size/volume might be different. Can that affect things? The older model airbox has different part no's, so perhaps it is mached to the 112 sized jets. The only other option is to use the 112 jets with the N96J needles as you mentioned the profile of those needles are different to the N60D and thus mached to the 112 jets.

I have ordered the N96J needles and the larger airbox snorkel from my local Kawasaki dealer, but it is 4-6 weeks ex Japan. Can you beleive it! Thanks for the info, its greatly appreciated as although I have a mechanical/electrical background I am learning as I am going on.

Before I forget. On the parts fish for the 1995 model there are five different vacuum valves (slide and diaframe). On the 99 model there are three. On the 07 model there are two, one is a 27kw version. How do you know if you have the right one for your new jet/needle set-up (112 & N96J) and what do the differerent ones mean? :confused1:

Hi. is there any chance you could email me the parts catalogue too? am just rebuilding a kle and will need a few bit, have also just cut the back box off my working bike and would like to look into putting some larger jets in too.
my email is nathanstuff@hotmail.co.uk.
this would be very much appreciated.
regards
Nathan

Hey just wanting to report on in my KLE tuning experiences so far, I have a 1998 KLE 400, which to the best of my knowledge is 100% the same as the 500, with the exception of the cylinder bore,

To start with i ordered 112 main jets and the bigger snorkel, The results were okay, but to be honest, I felt a little dissapointed, in search of shims I could only find m4 washers so put one each under the N96L needles, I must say this made quiet the difference, seeing as it was my day off and I was bored I said "Lets do rimfire now", So I did, the bike felt stumbly and whatnot so I swapped out the needles for GPZ400 needles (N31M), this made a lovely difference and the bike was back running strong again, but I did not get to run it for a long journey, The bike has standard headers but with an aftermarket end can.

Which has me wondering what should the next step be? Will a DNA filter be worth buying at this stage? I have also not touched the fuel air screws since doing this but I believe they were around 2.5 turns out, can anyone recommend a change in that?

I can currently do 0-100 in 7 seconds which is not bad at all for a 400. I have not seen my fuel consumption though.

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Hi guys, I could do with a little help! I have just had a go at setting my carbs up and I have run into a bit of a problem!
I have a DNA filter and a GPR exhaust fitted, I got a carb tuning kit from sigma6 in the states and I have fitted 110 main jets and 38 pilot jets and added too small washers under the needle, I also turned the fuel screw back then out 1.5 turns
The problem is the bike just doesn't have any go! It will hardly pull over 50mph on a flat road but when you try and pull away the bike just stumbles and feels like it will stall.
I'm thinking it's a lack of petrol, the bike sounds fine, starts ok and idles well.
Any ideas?

Kicking this old thread!

Have been reading this whole thread but with all the minor changes everybody has been making throughout time, I kinda lost track

My KLE500 is a 2006 model, so the one with the small snorkel. The headers are the stock ones (so they are the uneaven ones I assume) but I have fitted an aftermarket slip-on muffler which is pretty sporty.

I'm not looking to get a DNA filter because they're hard to come by where I live and when they áre available, very expensive.

But I am interested in getting the richer needles, bigger snorkel and bigger main jets.


If I am not mistaken, I would need the following parts for the best results:

Big snorkel
N96J needles (2x)
Main jet #112 (2x) or #115 when I do the rimfire mod as well

final question: why do I need 2 identical main jets when the stock ones are not equal thanks to the uneven headers?

looks like this thread is non revivable?

for those, who still have this great bike with "bad" carb settings, and want to make them "right", like i
Changed:
bigger snorkel
112 main jets (same in carbs)
N96J needle jets.
Unfortunately it's winter, so i cant test it. Will wait for higher temperature. In the meantime here is comparison of N60D and N96J needles.

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