which modifications?

[usl]

Hi everyone ;

After consulting HUBB in my previous topic, i am now a new owner of a KLRA '97. I bought it from a friend of mine who used in all these years for only 2700 km. I know its a very reliable machine and i made a good pick but have a question.

I have visited dual-sport web page and was very glad to see almost all pieces are avaliable and purchase is possible from any part of the world, since i am making overseas trips. But there are very many "additional" pieces and i dont know which one are really necessary, since i am not too familiar to it.

For example : Braking lines ... pumpguard... fork springs ... extra counter sprocket plate... water pump seal.... master cylinder
protection...sub frame upgrade.... etc..

So i would like to confer to your experiences about which modifications and add-on are necessary.

Thanks

[Kurt]

Congradulations on your new KLR.

I've had my '91 for about 4 years and have done very little to it but a good thrashing now and again. I ride mostly one-up with gear. A few thing's I have done is:

1) Replace the front brake line with stainless steel. I did this after a year and in conjunction with a better set of brake pads (back and front). The improvement is worth the time and effort for sure.

2) I have a smaller (by one tooth) front sprocket which I can take on or put off as needed. It's easy to carry and easy to install. When negotiating big inclines on gravel or dirt, the difference is remarkable. It's very easy to change on my year bike but I've seen a newer one that required a large (read bulky) wrench to change out.

3) I added a topcase by buying a Pellican instrument case and mounting to the rack. It's inexpensive, rugged, weather-proof and not large. Great for cameras and other delicates.

4) For luggage I just use soft Ortlieb bags. They have a roll top are large enough for me and fairly inexpensive.

5) Aftermarket gear shift lever. The original cracked under hard use but I got it welded back together. When I returned from my trip I replaced it. Problem is that another low speed get-off meant that the newer stronger bent into the engine case. It is so strong in fact it was hell getting it out far enough to be of any use. There are some other opinions around here about this as well.

Good luck.

Kurt

[Arun]

Congrats on your KLR.

I've had a '99 for 3 years now with no problems to report.

If you plan on ANY and I mean ANY off-pavement in ANY way(even gravel roads !), you really should invest in an aftermarket skidplate. The one from the factory does not protect your cases at all. You can find these for less than 100 bucks easily. 6 min. to install. Well worth it.

The rear shock is a bit vulnerable to getting sand/mud/rock blasted from the stuff flinging forward from the rear tire.
Take a look at your rear shock from the rear. There is an open space of a few inches that can be easily covered with a myriad of sturdy things. I used a piece of rubber mudflap and some stout zip-ties. It's a simple way to protect the shock.

Getting a braided front brake line is worth the money and is a simple thing too. It really does make a difference.

I've left my engine/carb/ etc alone. Just reg maintenance, no mods.

There is a ton of info out there about the KLR. Enjoy your bike !

[t0by]

Strongly recommend replacing the sub frame bolts if you are travelling two-up/ with luggage.


http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000033.html

specifically:
"If you ride a KLR 2 up or with a load get a sub frame upgrade kit at www.bigcee.com $13-$22 USD or you can always make one your self, this is a frequent weak spot in klr's from what I hear. if the upper bolt breaks it can cause Big $$ damage"


[This message has been edited by t0by (edited 01 July 2003).]

[Kurt]

Oh and don't forget the lock-tite. I make it a practice that whenever I take something off, I dab a little lock-tite on the threads when putting it back on. The only fasteners that have come off have been the ones I haven't gotten to.

Kurt

[Glenn_M]

Dual star pump guard and rad guard, skid plate, +9 windshield, eagle idler shaft lever and spring, PVC tool holder/footrest, subframe bolts from Bigcee.com, jetkit (and an exhaust too if you want), master cylinder guard, progressive front springs, dual star brake bracket, tail bag, tank bag, duffle bag, tank panniers, soft saddle bags.
I think that's about all you'd need. Of course a safety kit, road flare.. bandaids ect. Tire repair kit, mini hand pump.

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[This message has been edited by Glenn_M (edited 02 July 2003).]

[usl]

Hi;

Thanks for the replies.

Here are the modifications i made after your replies and checking my wallet.

1- Front brake line with stainless steel.
2- Aftermarket gear shift lever.
3- Piece of rubber for protecting rear shock.
4- Subframe up-grade.
5- Manual fan switch.
6- Master cylinder protection.

First two from dual-star, rest in the back yard.

By the way does anyone have any idea about 4mm. inner tubes that Dual-star is selling?

[Kingsqueak]

Originally posted by usl:
Hi;

Thanks for the replies.

Here are the modifications i made after your replies and checking my wallet.

1- Front brake line with stainless steel.
2- Aftermarket gear shift lever.
3- Piece of rubber for protecting rear shock.
4- Subframe up-grade.
5- Manual fan switch.
6- Master cylinder protection.

First two from dual-star, rest in the back yard.

By the way does anyone have any idea about 4mm. inner tubes that Dual-star is selling?

The 4mm heavy duty tubes are outstanding, worth the cost IMO. Bridgestone and a few others make them, be sure on the thickness, some 'HD' tubes are not as thick.

Among your modifications, I would add a few more. As mentioned an aluminum skid-plate if you are riding in rocky conditions, at the least get a low-profile oil plug as the stock one hangs down and is rather vulnerable.

The other mod would be 'proper' brush guards with an aluminum bar in them. A good set (Maier deluxe woods pro as an example) will save your levers even in a parking lot tipover and the deflectors on the Maiers are larger than stock and provide better wind/rain protection too.

A radiator guard is pretty essential as well as you can bend it beyond use with a mild left-side drop.

As for rejetting and all that mess, just drill out the EPA idle mix screw and give it a good 3/4 turn richer and leave the rest alone. This will alleviate the lean surge and make starting easier.

[oleearnold]

how about a fork brace? does anyone think they are worth the $.
olee

[Story Leavesley]

I would definitely recommend a fork brace on the KLR - especially if the bike's going to be loaded for adventure touring. Try this little experiment. Without a fork brace, get up some speed in second gear and clamp on the front brake to bring the bike to a sudden stop. You'll notice flexing in the fork and the bike will pull sharply to the right. Now install a fork brace and try the same experiment. You'll notice no flexing and almost no pull to the right.

The fork brace on my KLR has been a savior through Copper Canyon, Baja, and the Rocky Mts.

Story

[davidmc]

Story-

Did you notice an improvement in handling at higher speeds with the fork brace? I noticed that riding the KLR over 60 MPH the front end has lots of flex and doesn't feel too stable...I am wondering if this will be worse loaded up. I am really curious how a KLR with a fork brace compares to an F650 (which comes stock with fork brace) since I am considering buying one of these bikes.

-Dave

[Edd]

i think you have to stop and think, what is will you be using this for?

everyone seems to say "must have this" and "have to buy that", i think the best way is for you to go out there and do some riding and let you decide as to what is needed to "upgrade" your ride.

now unless you are going to be bashing it off road, up and down cut lines, i think you would have bought a different bike, a full tank of petrol off road and going slow through the woods is not what this bike was intended for. so unless your going to be riding directly behind a truck on a gravel road thats kicking up gravel, your not likely going to need a skid plate, and for big bark buster hand guards, your better loosening off the bolts on your levers, so if and when you do fall the levers move rather then breaking.

i did try steel brake lines and i have to say that i havent noticed anything, brakes were crap before and are still crap now, but its something that i can live with.

i think overal its a good bike that doesnt need any touch ups, its not likely to be perfect no matter how much you try and upgrade it. learn to accept it for what it is and its bound to be one of the best things you have ever bought.

one of the best things i bought for it and it broke shortly after buying it was a scott oiler, great for those who would rather ride then stop to lube the chain.

89klr650 100,000+km 98%stock

[Kurt]

I mostly agree with Edd. I've done without most of the stuff people seem to feel is 'must have.' Bike performs nicely on light off road and light interstate and everything else in between.

[JustinChase]

"Story-

Did you notice an improvement in handling at higher speeds with the fork brace? I noticed that riding the KLR over 60 MPH the front end has lots of flex and doesn't feel too stable...I am wondering if this will be worse loaded up. I am really curious how a KLR with a fork brace compares to an F650 (which comes stock with fork brace) since I am considering buying one of these bikes.

-Dave"

I found this pretty interesting...

http://multisurfacemotorcycling.com/.../fft090104.htm

Go down to the "Editors Corner" for some comments on fork braces for the KLR 650's.

For that matter, this site has a lot of comments on which accessories are good, and which are bad. Again, like some have already said, it really depends on what you intend on using the bike for.

Thumbs up... http://multisurfacemotorcycling.com/...lrthumbsup.htm

Thumbs down... http://multisurfacemotorcycling.com/...thumbsdown.htm

Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by JustinChase (edited 07 September 2004).]

[liketoride2]

I believe someone above mentioned the couterbalancer chain tensioner upgrade, often called the "doohicky," and I would like to second that recommendation. A friend found the spring had already broken on his new KLR at less than 900 miles. Failure of this part can lead to catastrophic engine damage.

If you are still not fully satisfied with your brakes, the larger front rotor sold by Happy Trails and others provides a far greater improvement than steel lines and upgraded pads alone.

Hope this is of some help. Enjoy your KLR!