What your guys experience with the KLR 650 engine? I could get a 2008 modell with 39000 k`s on the clook.
How much K`s have people here on there KLR`s with out a bigger problem?
Cheers

They're good bikes.. built to a budget but many have taken them rtw..

They're much more popular in the USA so have a look on ADV Rider for more information and KLR reviews than you can ever read in a lifetime..

Adventure Rider Motorcycle Forum

Ted

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

Hi,

I've got one, a 1990 model bought 3 years ago with 55,000 on the clock and now at 130,000. Still uses the same amount of oil it did when I bought it (0.5 litre in 3000-4000 km) and the problems in that time is only a failed voltage regulater.

Currently I've got it completely stripped down - cases fully apart and crankshaft out to inspect it as I planning to go to Russia and then west in a few weeks time. What I've found shows me I've probably wasted my time - but I feel more comfortable having checked it. Rebuild is going to use remarkably few new parts:
- Crankshaft fine - main bearing, big end bearing and little end fine.
- cam chain fine - completely unstretched.
- Gearbox components - unmarked teeth and dogs look like they just came out of the factory.
- valves very slight leakage past the seats- but minimal and was causing any problems.

The biggest (only) weak link in the engine is the balancer mechanism - search for "doohickey" on any of the KLR specific web sites and you will find out more about them than you ever wanted to know. My experience suggests most of the criticism of the original Kawasaki balane chain adjuster lever and spring is justified. Mine was broken when I first got the engine and the replacement I fitted looked like it was going to break when I checked it a few thousand later. At that point I changed it to the standard after market one (Eagle Mike) and have had no problems since. We recently bought a second KLR for my son and it was the same - broken lever in it and signs of a previous failure; so I'm convinced it is a real problem. Having said that the fix is about $50 and not hard to do so it shouldn't put you off if you have any ability with spanners.

The other issue to be aware of with the bikes is they use shims to adjust the valves. So you either need to be a competent home mechanic or willing to go to a dealer to get them done. On the positive side whilst Kawasaki say to check them every 10,000 km I find they only need adjusting every second or third time.

All other "non-consumable" bits of the bike are also fine at 130k. No problems with the frame. Suspension is basic but solid. Rear shock has just been rebuilt for second time - but only oil and seals required.

Bikes aren't that common in Australia and Kawasaki parts can be expensive - but because they are popular in the states its easy to buy parts on-line and landed they are 50%-60% of the local cost (at the cost of having to wait 2-3 weeks sometimes).

In summary an unthrashed example is likely to be a sound bike and reliable. Having said that my sons bike definately had one careless onwner before us who managed to run it out of oil. This destroyed the cylinder head (cam seized in bearing) but when I stripped the bottom end it was virtually undamaged - so it was put back together with a second hand head. It now runs fine proving that even thrashed ones seems to survive remarkably well.

Hope this helps. PM me if you have any specific questions.

__________________
Martin

finally back on the road again


http://awayonmybike.blogspot.com/

The above matches my experience pretty well. Mine's got 94,000 miles (150,000 km) and I'm still using it although it's clearly on its last legs without a teardown. The doohickey is a real issue and needs taking care of early, my shock went around 80,000 miles, the muffler at about 50,000, and I've adjusted the valves four times or so. The rest has been replacing missing bolts, broken cables, filters and like that, plus some comfort or convenience issues--most people replace the seat, but I've made do with an Airhawk; most people replace the pegs with something serrated; most put on some sort of barkbusters to protect levers; most upgrade the headlights and some do better brakes.

Note that there are some differences between the Australian models and the USA models. I like the Yahoo group for support and information, but it's almost entirely USA based: DSN_KLR650 : DualSportNews' KLR650 Discussion List.

Hope that's helpful.

Mark

KDSA,

I have a 2008 KLR with 30,000 kms. Most of those kms are from my travels around North America. With regular, basic maintenance, and some tlc, the bike has performed and held up well. As some of the others have suggested take a look at the Doohickey. I was told that the 2008 model had had the Doohickey strengthened and there was no need to replace it, but that the spring that provided the tension was too long. I purchased the Doohickey replacement kit from Eagle Mike and opened her up. Sure enough the stock Doohickey looked stronger than the one from earlier years and, sure enough, the spring was much too long, providing very little tension. To be on the safe side I replaced the Doohickey anyway and put in a shorter spring, which comes with the kit. That has been my only issue and easily put right (step-by-step instructions on the web if you do not have a Clymer manual). With a little luck maybe the one you are looking at has already had the replacement.

Happy travels, Mike

Thanks Guys for al your info.

Even I read already through few KLR related posts I never heard about the " doohickey lever" good to know for what to look out for!

Thanks for that and happy traveling, Klaus!