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  #1  
Old 19 Nov 2006
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Carb Overflowing

Hi,
Debz was riding her 640 adventure, excelerating away from roundabout and bike went 'bang' and lost all power. It would appear that the bang was excess fuel in the exhaust. Bike turning over ok but fuel coming from carb bowl overflow. I've had carb out and cleaned it, float, etc seems to be ok. Put it all back together and no different, still won't start, petrol still coming out of overflow. Has anyone else ever experienced this? And does anyone know of a quick way to get the carb out?

Thanks

Iain
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Old 20 Nov 2006
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Sounds like your float needle or needle seat may have given up the ghost. I had it happen on my 03 Adventure, one minute the bike was running fine and the next it was crapping out and leaking fuel. I replaced the needle/seat + the float and after a little tinkering to adjust the new floats height the bike ran the best ever. I couldn't see anything wrong with the old float but I replaced it anyway just to play it safe. My method to take out the carb isn't quick but it works for me and that is to dissassemble the carb in place starting from the diaphram/ slide, vents,hoses and then cable connections and then rotate the carb {after loosening the clamps} and remove the float bowl + float cage and maybe the idle adjuster, after all this the carb is small enough to roll up through the gap in the frame rails.
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Old 20 Nov 2006
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Hi
The Mikuni carb fitted to the 640 KTM Adventura is the same as on the 97-2005 Suzuki DR650se this make for cheaper carb parts. Hope this helps Skip
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Old 22 Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island Hopper
Sounds like your float needle or needle seat may have given up the ghost. .
Hi
Have ordered the parts that you suggested.
I’ll fit them on Saturday and see if they do the trick.
I would like to try and get the float setting right first time,
what setting did you use?

thanks for your help

Iain
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Old 23 Nov 2006
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I believe my float setting is somewhere around 14 or 15 mm but can't say for sure because I had the carb apart several times to adjust the fuel level lower before I was satisfied and did not note the final measurement. Once things were setup my fuel economy improved {20-23 KM/PL} and the engine runs hitch free on a rough terrain test. One other carb related problem I experienced while we're on the subject was the vacuum hose from the fuel pump deteriorated on the end where it bends to attach to the intake manifold spigot, this allowed air to leak in causing the bike to run lean {opposite of your problem} but it happened around the same time as my needle/seat failure so it's worth checking while the carbs out and you have room to look at things. Hope you get it sorted out, good luck................David.......
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  #6  
Old 23 Nov 2006
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Carb removal

Patta,
Be a believer, the carb will come straight up between the frame rails. Remove the front faring and gastank and seat. Loosen clamp at rubber inlet manifold, carb to engine, front of carb. Unhook fuel line to carb before starting.


Remove hose on top of diaphragm cover if there is one. Remove clamps, rear of carb, connection to airbox on the rubber connector.
Pull airbox rubber off back of carb and from airbox and push it downward while lifting the carb up so they pass each other. It is a messy, nasty job and a tight fit. Use finesse. Be gentle. Turn rear up, pull up. You will get it.
It will come up and out with all cables and tubes attached. Be gentle on all wiring so you do not hook it. when carb is out put a rag over the hole in the frame and you can work there. Be careful not to loose parts. If bowel screws are tight put a locking pliers on screws to turn. there is a gas drain if you want to use it.
This is how I set the float height.
With bowl off attach a piece of gas line. Blow on gasline with carb upright raise the float. Note where air stops going in. This is the actual height. set it level for the float arms a indicated in manual.
On my 640 Adventure the rubber needle failed at 11K miles, 17K KM. It has to be replaced with every 16K KM service so just do it and carry a spare. Everything else should be good but check the diaphragm. It is possible a piece of shit is stuck at the needle so disassemble the float and look-clean. Do not loose parts. Put together opposite of removal. Clamps on connector to airbox are hard to start. Get a and an attractive assistant. Have fun.
Good luck,

Bill in Tomahawk, WI

Last edited by Bill Shockley; 23 Nov 2006 at 12:52.
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Old 25 Nov 2006
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Never tried to hard to take the carb out in one piece, I just figured I was going to take it apart anyways to clean it so why not reduce its size while on the bike. For float height tuning I leave the carb in place and pop the float cage out to do small adjustments {.5mm at a time} reassemble and testrun. It would be nice to get it right first try but it didn't work for me. My initial setting with the carb completely out was to set the floats parallel to the carb body which was too rich and hence the further adjustment. Bills method of blowing air through the needle/ seat sounds a little more precise than just eyeballing it and may be the choice method to get it right on the first try. .......good luck..........David.
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