Bumping this thread so that peeps can update or add their history!

I have had all the well known issues with my 2006 adventure.

Cam follower bearing at 40k
Broken tooth of starter gear destroyed stator.
Broken rear sub frame
Steering head bearings

Leaking base gasket at 50 k so did a top end rebuild at the same time.
Leaking fork seals

Clutch replaced at 55k

Usual consumables chains sprockets brake pads wheel bearings tyres etc

Frayed wires under the dash caused all sorts of issues.

Currently have the carb off chasing a bogging issue.

Bike has now done 65 thousand hard klms and I still love it, although the relationship gets a bit strained at times.

If they were still making them I would buy a new one. Would love a 690 adventure but obviously never going to happen, so I am going to hold on to the 640

Done 20K (almost trouble free) km since the rebuild now so on about 115K km. Only recent issue has been some wires rubbing through on each other just out of the igniter box, easy fix but took a few hrs to find. 1st time it's ever stopped on me out on the road.

Clutch? That's not a common one at all, what failed? There are a few issues with the cylinders now & then but the rest seems to last forever usually.

Cheers
Clint

Sorry Should have pointed out that it wasn't a clutch failure as such just replaced the plates.

Still got the Current issue of a flat spot just off idle and bogging after landing off small jumps or climbing rough hills.

Have replaced the needle & seat and cleaned carb but its still there. Going to raise the needle 1 notch to see if that helps.

If you experience bogging over rough ground that usually points to an incorrect float level...

Yep thanks mate. Looking at that this week.

Can't seem to find what the correct height is though.

The ballpark setting listed in the manual works pretty good and is simple to do with the eye: Just as the float tang contacts {not depressing} the float needle pin plunger the bottom surface of the float should be parallel to the carb body gasket surface... Bend the tang up or down to get the desired results...

You can check your bowl fuel level with the carb on the bike by doing the following: Pull the drain hose off the bottom of the carb and replace it with a length of clear line that you can observe the fuel in it... Then run this clear line up the side of the carb and tape it in place so the tip sits a couple of inches above the bowl gasket surface... Then crack the bowl drain screw a couple of turns until the fuel runs up the line... It should stop at whatever level the fuel is in the float bowl... The fuel in the line should stop at a couple MMs above the gasket surface, if it is at or below the gasket surface then the carb should be removed and float tang should be adjusted to bring it online.... You can also check the level using this method with the engine running and make sure the fuel level does not stray too far from where it sits at rest... Sometimes if the float needle is near the end of it's life the extra push from the fuel pump while the engine is running will cause the needle seal to fail and push up the fuel level causing a very rich boggy condition which will make the bike stall and misbehave at low revs...

Not so funny BST40 carb, is it?