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15 Dec 2015
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Haha yes, I actually did that with my DR650, very quickly realised and sorted it lol. No restrictor, that was clearly from some crap in the bottom of the tank I think. First, we are going to check the timing and advance to see what's going on there.
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19 Dec 2015
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Something is very off with that bike... First thing is to pull tank off and have a look at the carb... You can get at most carb wear items without removing the carb from the bike... First off pull the plastic cap off the top of the carb and remove the slide and inspect the diaphragm for defects... Have a look at your jet needle, make sure it has the metal washer on the bottom and the 2 plastic sandwich washers in place... The Jet needle sometimes will wear so much that it will break in 2... With a 17 mm wrench to unscrew the bowl plug you can then access the main jet with a right angle screwdriver and a bit of fiddling.. Take the main jet and the tube washer out and then you can pull the plastic slide guide up through the top of the carb... Inspect the slide guide for wear by looking at the wear indicator depressions on the slide running surface... Look at the needle jet{emulsion tube} to see if it has worn oval and check that the o-ring is in place on the bottom of the slide guide... All this can be done with the carb on the bike... also check the main jet #, it should be between 152.5 and 160, any larger than that usually causes an overly rich condition.. It has happened before where the pilot jet has rattled loose and found sitting in the bottom of the float bowl..
Like I mentioned before, issues with the fuel pump can also cause problems...
Last edited by Island Hopper; 20 Dec 2015 at 03:08.
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19 Dec 2015
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Thanks, good info there
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19 Dec 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeS
Thanks, good info there
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Its a bit of detective work, I like to start with the easy stuff first and tick them off the check list before going more in depth and pulling the top end.
Once you get everything set up properly the 03 + 640s will go quite a while between top end service intervals...
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4 Jan 2016
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Happy New Year
Well here's a quick update as I got the bike back:
Compression test - all good
Throttle Position Sensor - was apparently miles out, now adjusted (was showing that the throttle was wide open when in fact it was closed)
Timing - all ok
Carb - opened up and checked, very clean and nothing untoward noted, some minor adjustments made.
Air filter - despite claims from the previous KTM guy (see below) that this was cleaned, the filter was actually deteriorating and I suspect some of this had gotten into the carb earlier
SM Motech side stand fitted - damn that thing is fierce! But it works well and there's no danger of ever riding off with it down haha
Radiator - had used a little bit of fluid, guess this went out the overflow as no leaks noted
Backfiring/popping - apparently its doing this less now and only in low gears
Only got it back last night but my initial thoughts was it was going better so will try to get out on it over the next week to so see what has improved and will also check on the fuel economy.
Another issue that popped up recently (actually when I plugged in a USB adapter for charging my phone) was that the instrument cluster display got 'weaker' (now its hard to read) and the clock (time) disappeared - any thoughts?
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4 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeS
Another issue that popped up recently (actually when I plugged in a USB adapter for charging my phone) was that the instrument cluster display got 'weaker' (now its hard to read) and the clock (time) disappeared - any thoughts?
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If it is doing this permanently rather than intermittantly, then possibly age related.
Car instrument panels can show similar symptoms; IIRC, some Nissans had a habit of losing the digital clock display or parts of the electronic numeral display(s).
__________________
Dave
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6 Jan 2016
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yeah, but it can't be a coincidence that both things (screen fade / disappearing clock) happened at same time as using the accessory power socket for the first time. I read somewhere that a fuse could have gone or that there might even be a watch battery somewhere on the cluster for the clock but not convinced has haven't seen anything in the manual about that. Will check the fuses though.
Incidentally the clock DOES reappear if I hold both the Mode and Set buttons while ignition off, then turn on again. I can reset the clock and it works fine while I'm riding but it goes away again next time I turn off lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkabout
If it is doing this permanently rather than intermittantly, then possibly age related.
Car instrument panels can show similar symptoms; IIRC, some Nissans had a habit of losing the digital clock display or parts of the electronic numeral display(s).
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4 Jan 2016
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R.I.P.
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: california
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeS
Another issue that popped up recently (actually when I plugged in a USB adapter for charging my phone) was that the instrument cluster display got 'weaker' (now its hard to read) and the clock (time) disappeared - any thoughts?
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TPS? Wow, forget your bike had one! Hope it's the source of the problem!
IIRC, KTM instrument clusters are KNOWN to go bad for no obvious reason. So you may be on the hook for a new one and I believe they are very expensive.
If you remove it ... you risk messing with wiring and screwing up CDI as a lot of the wiring goes through the CDI, so I'm not sure you can just unplug it and throw it in the bin ... but there may be a way, if you know how.
If the cluster has gotten WET ... you may try drying it slowly in the Sun (FACE DOWN!) for couple days. Never face LED display directly into Sun ... this will ruin it for sure ... and that could be what's happened to yours.
Good Luck!
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6 Jan 2016
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It's definitely running better, much more lively than it was. Will keep monitoring and will check what the fuel consumption is doing. Hoping it was just a combination of all these things plus $hitty maintenance from the previous owner (not forgetting the incompetent work from the KTM mechanic..)
[QUOTE=mollydog;525951]TPS? Wow, forget your bike had one! Hope it's the source of the problem!]
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7 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeS
Another issue that popped up recently (actually when I plugged in a USB adapter for charging my phone) was that the instrument cluster display got 'weaker' (now its hard to read) and the clock (time) disappeared - any thoughts?
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If replacing fuses brings the clock back then you likely have a short in the system... Most likely areas to check are the cluster wrap harness of wires that are zip tied to the dash support bar and the wires that run to to the accessory outlet... Check the wires where they bend as they come out of the harness for abrasions to the shielding and check that they have not rubbed raw against the dash bar... Check the wires for the same where they go to the cluster plugs on the right side dash support strut... Another thing to check is the soldered terminals inside the ignition keyswitch as they will sometimes pop loose and cause erratic electrical problems.. To get at the keyswitch you have to remove the base by taking out the 2 phillips head screws and then pry and pop the base apart as it is a slip fit plastic sleeve.. Once apart you will be able to see if any terminals are broken and resolder them back to their posts...
I still have all the original electrical components on my bike at 210,000+ km but have had to fix worn wires and such on several occasions... Sometimes the buttons stop working on the speedo.. When that happens I remove the faceplate and spray electro contact cleaner in at the same time working the buttons, this bit of a wash always restores the function of the buttons..
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