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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
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Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 13 May 2001
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Africa by 2CV

Hello,
We are planning a trip through Northern Afrika by 2CV starting next January.

How feasible is the following route:
Marocco, Mauretania, Senegal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Chad, Libya.

We are particularly interested to hear how one can travel relatively safely through Chad.

Who has done desert travel by 2CV (or knows someone who has)?


Ron and Roberta
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  #2  
Old 14 May 2001
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Hi R&R, your route sounds feasible apart from north Chad to Libya (interdit).
The guy who takes his 2CVs where most wont go in their 4x4s is Cyril
cyriletsylvie@yahoo.fr
(speaks only French)

bonne route

Chris

------------------
Author of Sahara Overland and the Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, among other things

http://www.sahara-overland.com


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  #3  
Old 15 May 2001
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How then to get from, lets say Cameroon to Sicily?

Ron and Roberta
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  #4  
Old 15 May 2001
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Hi
met a German couple in Kenya who had come from Tunisia et al - their main problems were the chassis cracking which they had welded on numerous ocassions.

Enjoy your trip
Chris
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  #5  
Old 15 May 2001
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Scuse my Ignorance But apart from light weight what good reasons do you have for taking a 2cv to the Desert?
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  #6  
Old 16 May 2001
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Regarding the chassis problem on 2CV's, there is a tendancy for distortion and folding of the longitudial members where they are joined to cross members. Usually what happens is a small fold, and this weakens the joints and eventually the weld cracks up (it doesn't need to be rusted for this to happen). I noticed one day that the centres of the wheels on the nearside were 4 inches closer together than on the offside, and I found the chassis had bent. They're quite weak after a repair, unless you use thick steel.

If I bought another 2CV I'd check the chassis was perfectly straight and if not I wouldn't consider the vehicle, especially if it was to be overloaded.

But they are amzing to drive and suprisingly able off-road. They're also really economical and very light so recovery is easy.

I'f you've never driven one efore, just wait until you try and go around a corner...he he he...

Scott (scott.wylie@morocco.com)
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  #7  
Old 18 May 2001
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Hi
Just back from doing Morocco in a 2cv. Rekkam Plateau - Erfoud-Draa- Tallouine -High Atlass. Didn't even get a puncture!

if you are familiar with a 2cv and are able to do your own mechanical work they are great! dont be put off by all those people with gas guzzling Toyotas ;^)

If not you realise you are off to the desert in an antique! so think again.

The main problem, as has been raised, is the chassis . It is my recomendation to fit a new one,there is a particularly good one made by Ken Hannah-SLC made from 3mm galv steel, he will also do an un galv one which means you can weld it if the worst happens.This chassis is pretty well indestructable.If you have a good original and it must be perfect or it will rip apart on the corrugations/tole ondule it will have to be brought up to 'PO' standard which was the factory model for Africa and other rough paces. There is a booklet produced by Citroen now out of print which shows the strengthening needed it is available on line at

The engine needs a guard 4mm alu plate from bumper to behind exhaust cross box this is essential.

a similar plate over the fuel tank is also desirable.

Tyres 125 michelins are too soft in the sidewalls i used 145 uniroyal f560's as they have a stronger & higher sidewall They ran flat in sand and over the worst of the Moroccan rocks at 2bar with no problems. You can also get Dunlop sp 50s from 2cv specialists in france these are even stronger
I ran without tubes others in the party used tubes and punctures/failures were a daily occurance.But take spare tubes.

Two spare wheels fit accross the car with 20l gerricans behind the seats on their sides this gives you a range of about 800km leaving the rear load area clear.keep all weight as far forward as possible.

Weight is going to be your main problem. think like a bike and get by with the minimal of gear.

If you are a mechanical type there are severe engine mods that you can do ,but as Chris suggests in his book keep everything as standard.

Make sure that your engine does not leak any oil this is essential on the air cooled engine as any seepage of oil causes the sengine cooling to clog with sand.

fit the stone guard to the fan housing and a very fine 'Gravel Guard' in the bonnet gril. Take a spare fan & pulley assembly as even the smallest of stones will wreck your fan causing major overheating.

At slow speeds/sand remove the panels between front wings/fenders and bonnet as this helps engine cooling.

Take atleast one new coil as they get dammaged in the heat and they are difficult to find now.

A cheap hand held gps works fine because of the fabric roof.

Take some light weight sand plates as psp is way over the top for a 2cv.

Remove the rear bumper as it deflects stones up onto the car.

Thats just the start of it-

Have a look at:-
http:members/aol.com/slcchassis
http our world.compuserve.com/homepages/ubs_kes
and lots of links from 'generation 2cv'

Contact me for any more information you require tips adresses and photos etc.

Cheers Sean
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  #8  
Old 21 May 2001
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Hi, in 1989 I was working in Sierra Leone for an aid organisation when I met two guys from Leeds who had travelled down from the UK by 2CV, their chassis had cracked but we repaired it in my workshops with 3 inch angle iron and it got them home OK, doubt it passed another MOT inspection though. They said that the 2CV had been no problem in the desert and it was only the roads of Liberia and Seirra Leone that had caused the trouble, they were hard enough on my XL125 but the 1 inch angle was used on that to sort the frame. Chris.
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