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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



Trans Sahara Routes.

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Old 18 May 2001
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Scotland
Posts: 5
Hi
Just back from doing Morocco in a 2cv. Rekkam Plateau - Erfoud-Draa- Tallouine -High Atlass. Didn't even get a puncture!

if you are familiar with a 2cv and are able to do your own mechanical work they are great! dont be put off by all those people with gas guzzling Toyotas ;^)

If not you realise you are off to the desert in an antique! so think again.

The main problem, as has been raised, is the chassis . It is my recomendation to fit a new one,there is a particularly good one made by Ken Hannah-SLC made from 3mm galv steel, he will also do an un galv one which means you can weld it if the worst happens.This chassis is pretty well indestructable.If you have a good original and it must be perfect or it will rip apart on the corrugations/tole ondule it will have to be brought up to 'PO' standard which was the factory model for Africa and other rough paces. There is a booklet produced by Citroen now out of print which shows the strengthening needed it is available on line at

The engine needs a guard 4mm alu plate from bumper to behind exhaust cross box this is essential.

a similar plate over the fuel tank is also desirable.

Tyres 125 michelins are too soft in the sidewalls i used 145 uniroyal f560's as they have a stronger & higher sidewall They ran flat in sand and over the worst of the Moroccan rocks at 2bar with no problems. You can also get Dunlop sp 50s from 2cv specialists in france these are even stronger
I ran without tubes others in the party used tubes and punctures/failures were a daily occurance.But take spare tubes.

Two spare wheels fit accross the car with 20l gerricans behind the seats on their sides this gives you a range of about 800km leaving the rear load area clear.keep all weight as far forward as possible.

Weight is going to be your main problem. think like a bike and get by with the minimal of gear.

If you are a mechanical type there are severe engine mods that you can do ,but as Chris suggests in his book keep everything as standard.

Make sure that your engine does not leak any oil this is essential on the air cooled engine as any seepage of oil causes the sengine cooling to clog with sand.

fit the stone guard to the fan housing and a very fine 'Gravel Guard' in the bonnet gril. Take a spare fan & pulley assembly as even the smallest of stones will wreck your fan causing major overheating.

At slow speeds/sand remove the panels between front wings/fenders and bonnet as this helps engine cooling.

Take atleast one new coil as they get dammaged in the heat and they are difficult to find now.

A cheap hand held gps works fine because of the fabric roof.

Take some light weight sand plates as psp is way over the top for a 2cv.

Remove the rear bumper as it deflects stones up onto the car.

Thats just the start of it-

Have a look at:-
http:members/aol.com/slcchassis
http our world.compuserve.com/homepages/ubs_kes
and lots of links from 'generation 2cv'

Contact me for any more information you require tips adresses and photos etc.

Cheers Sean
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