We have just arrived in Noukchott from Nouadhibou today. We had a GPS route from some guys we met in Dakhla who had just done the route up with a guide. We were in a big group of 6 bikes (2 x KTM LC4, 1 x Honda Dominator, 2 x Super Tenere, 1 x DR350) and travelled with 3 4x4's that we met up with en route through Morocco. Because we had the GPS points and some of us had previous experience with the crossing we opted to not take a guide. If you don't have experience you should definately travel with a guide.

Even though the 4x4's carried most of the luggage we still used around 45l of fuel per bike as most of the way the bikes were working quite hard on the sand ... even at 90km/h the motors were still straining to keep on top of it. We carried all our own water+fuel on the bikes.

„h Boarder crossing formalities both from Morocco to Mauritania - exiting Morocco was OK and took aruond 1 hour, the Mauritanean side took closer to 2-3 hours (there are 3 police/customs stops within the first 10km). We paid 15 Euro to enter Mauritania. Its worth bush caming close to the border on the Morocco side so that you have plenty of time to do the old Spanish road in the morning - its very sandy for a fully loaded bike in places. Also note that the Old Spanish road is mined for the last 10km or so as it approaches Naoudhibou and you must take the newer piste that splits off. It might be worth taking a guide from the border.

„h We only found fuel at Noumghar as we exited the National Park. It was just over double the standard price in Mauritania, and then again in the tiny fishing "villages" in the 20km along the beach just before Naoukchott. Its carried in plastic jerry cans and has all kinds of sediment in the bottom so I wouldn't bargain on it. The same goes for food and water. You should carry at least enough for your planned days + 1 extra incase you are caught by the tide on the beach.

„h Bush camping anywhere is great in the desert. Campgrounds are fairly basic - in Naoudhibou we stayed at Camping Abba (also known as Chez Momo) and in Naoukchott in Bivouac Paris Dakar. Both have hot showers .. at no extra charge!

No experience with the train - sorry.