I just crossed the Sahara for the first time without a vehicle and could write a novel about it, but I hope that this post can answer some questions that I wish I had answered before.
First, it is extremely easy to get a Mauri visa in Casablanca and you need only one photo and a copy of the pertanent pages of your passport, not the first three pages and three photos like I've heard before.
Second, go direct to Dahkla to find a ride. I spent time dicking around in Marrakech and Laayoune, but there are plenty of vehicles depqrting from Dahkla. Speaking French is definately imortant to find a ride quicky I found.
Third, the iron train was fun, but next time I'll probably just take a bush taxi along the coast. Basically, Mauri is a dump and I see no reason to spend a lot of time there. I'm sure others have had different experiences, and yes, I know the people are nice and ended up staying with families in Choam, Atar, and Noukchott, but there is really nothing to do there and the food is terrible. Also, the bus from Atar to Noukchott took about 13 hours because it was so overloaded and the police stopped us every twenty km.
Finally, the border at Rosso is not what it's made out to be. I crossed in less then to hours and the only problem I encountered was a guard who tried to levy a special 1000 um tax, but relented very quickly.
All in all, it was really easy and the trip has demystified the Sahara for me. I'd say any traveler could do it and it's almost on the bring your mom there level.
Cheers,
d

dcm311 are you back in Boulder? If so we should get together and talk Sahara and stuff. I'm in Louisville just back from a 9 month London to Cape Town.

Can reach me at crolis <at> yahoo.com

Cheers

Graham
www.africaoverland.org

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Graham 'Cracker'
Director: Overland Training
Editor: Overland Journal
Instigator: Africa Overland

Thanks for that I'm doing more or less the same in Jan ... nice one.