Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > North Africa
North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



Trans Sahara Routes.

Like Tree98Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #46  
Old 7 Aug 2024
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,465
Perhaps time to go back to Berliet #22
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPIUSzDDp0k
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 9 Aug 2024
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: London
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thegreatbreakout View Post
Hello Everyone,
After years of using the HUBB for my own benefit and not “giving back,” this thread made me create an account.
Visiting Algeria had already been in the back of my mind for a couple of years, and all your testimonials were very helpful in preparing everything.
Here’s my experience getting into Algeria, traveling within it, and entering Tunisia with a motorcycle as of July 2024:

The Plan
My initial plan was to ride my motorcycle from Lisbon to Djanet and attend the Sebiba festival that took place during the first weeks of July. For that, I had planned a route going west from Oran to Taghit, Timimoun, In Salah, Tamanrasset, and finally Djanet, then back up from the east, heading towards Ghardaia, Constantine, and Tunisia. While planning everything in more detail, I realized that the condition of the road connecting Tamanrasset and Djanet would be a huge challenge for a bike carrying two people, 30+ kg of luggage, a lot of water, and extra fuel. So, unfortunately, I had to rethink my plan, forget about Djanet this time, and stick to Tamanrasset and the Ahaggar National Park as my final destination. (A plan that also failed.)

Getting the Visa
Applying for the visa started as an apparently easy process. I checked and gathered all the documentation I would need for me and my girlfriend. This included the ferry ticket (free cancellation until 48 hours before departure) and 3 hotel reservations I had made through Booking.com along the Algerian coast (also free to cancel, as that was the plan all along). I visited the Algerian embassy in Lisbon, explained our “coastal route,” handed everything in, and paid for the visas in less than 20 minutes. I was fortunate enough to deal with a very nice embassy worker. Some days later, I got a phone call from the embassy. They required proof that we were employed and wanted a signed document from our employers stating our functions within our companies. This was something that was not listed, but alright, two days later I was already handing them these additional documents.
A week later, I received another call from the embassy. They wanted to confirm my planned route in Algeria and warn me that it was completely forbidden for me to go south. I got curious and asked what was considered south? The answer was “anything south of my route” (I had presented them the following route: Oran - Algiers - Annaba - Tunisia). I started to wonder what could go wrong and how they could control where I'll be going. It was enough to get me thinking but not enough to ditch my plan. Later that day, I received another phone call from the embassy. Maybe my curiosity previously got them suspicious, and they now wanted me to declare in a signed document that I was sticking to my route and not going anywhere else. At this point, I started to doubt the entire trip being possible. I really didn’t want to push it and face unpleasant consequences in Algeria. I slept on it, and the next day, I decided to write down that declaration. I wrote it in Portuguese and did my best to avoid any real commitment to my words. I was vague and stated a lot of “ifs”. I printed it, signed it, and went to the embassy for the last time. Another week passed with no news, and as our ferry departure date approached, I began to worry. Maybe my declaration declaring nothing did not convince them, and they would not issue us the visas. Four days before our ferry departure, I got the call: “Your visas are ready!” Finally, good news. The very next day, as soon as the embassy opened, I was already there picking up our passports, although the good outcome obviously came with a twist. We were granted only a 10-day visa, which would again interfere with our actual plan—a very naive mistake on our part as I was convinced that the tourist visa, independently of the route presented, would be 30 days. But that was not the case; they gave us the exact amount of time we needed for our fake coastal route. Lesson learned.

The Ferry
Eduarda and I left Lisbon towards Almeria (Spain), where we took the Naviera Armas/Trasmediterranea Ferry to Oran. The ferry was quite expensive but was the best option that suited our plan. Unlike Morocco or Tunisia, there are not a lot of alternatives. Expect to pay 250+ euros for a person and a motorcycle one-way ticket and expect only a couple of ferries per week (at least from Spain). The crossing from Almeria to Oran took around 6 hours, a walk in the park compared with the 30+ hours that were waiting for me some weeks later. We were the only tourists and the only motorcycle on the ferry. I guess it makes sense as it was July, but we’ll get to that in a bit.

Getting In
As soon as we got off the ferry, we got the green light from the Algerian authorities to skip the queue of cars, which is always a good start. In 10 minutes, we were already handing our passports to a police officer. “Portuguese? Cristiano Ronaldo!” We all smile, and our lives get automatically easier, and this could summarize every interaction I’ve had with the authorities and people in Algeria, and Africa in general. A big thanks to Cristiano for diplomatically making the life of every Portuguese citizen easier for the past 20 years. We both got our passports stamped in 30 minutes. Then it was time to get the bike into the country. One hour more for Douane, and we were free to roam Algeria. The whole process was super fast, in my opinion. Everything was simple, well-organized, and the officers were very helpful. I only had one officer checking my bags, who I later realized actually wanted some money, but as my French sucks, I honestly thought he wanted to know how much money I had with me. So, I guess he got confused with my french attempt of an answer for that, and he quit.
As soon as you get out of the port, there’s a place where you can buy vehicle insurance. It cost us 15 euros for a month, and they also exchanged some money for us at a good rate given the circumstances (220 dinars for 1 euro). We ended up re-entering the port to buy a SIM card from the mobile operator stands at the exit. It’s mainly young people working there, and they were pretty helpful. We ended up choosing Mobilis, which had 80GB of internet for a month for less than 10 euros. With all these things taken care of, we were good to say goodbye to the port for good.

Getting Around
Booking a place to stay online doesn't really work in Algeria, and in some cases, you might fall victim to scams when booking rooms on shady websites. Google Maps will be your best solution for this. One thing we did was choose the hotel that suited our needs best for the next day and kindly ask someone from the hotel where we were staying to call and let them know in advance that we were coming the next day.
We ended up exchanging all of our money at the first hotel where we stayed in Oran, so we don’t really know how it goes on the streets. However, it seems that everyone knows someone, and you'll always get a way better rate than in a bank.
Fuel is ridiculously cheap in Algeria, around 35 euro cents per liter. It’s so cheap that on the outskirts of Timimoun, I was offered a full tank by the guy working at the fuel station.
Algerians are very welcoming. As you might guess from what’s written above, the lack of tourism makes all interactions more genuine. No one is going to bother you or try to get something from you. Prices are the same for everyone, and with the exception of smaller towns (just like everywhere in the world), everyone will go on with their lives not caring at all about your presence.
Food is good and cheap, from traditional to fast food. We stuck to places with good reviews.
Roads are overall in good condition, despite a few beaten-up parts, nothing to worry about.
We always had data coverage from my Mobilis SIM card. You’ll see plenty of antennas installed in the desert.
What about police or checkpoints? To my surprise, I got stopped only twice. Maybe I was riding too early, maybe it was too hot for them to be outside, or maybe it was so foolish to be riding during that period that no traffic was being checked. Despite the distance from where we quit continuing south, I really felt like we could continue without any issue. The second time we got stopped was 200 km north of Taghit. It took 15 minutes as these were very surprised young police officers who wanted to confirm everything with a superior. The superior came, took a look at us and our passports, and let us go. We were still looking fresh and in good spirits despite it being 40ºC, but later that day we experienced 48ºC in Taghit.

The Actual Trip
Even after the setback with the short 10-day visa, we were still determined to reach Tamanrasset. We really didn’t think about how stupid and dangerous this would be with the high temperatures, but at least we were somewhat prepared: plenty of water, plenty of fuel, Dioralyte solutions, energy bars…
The first days already showed us that it would not be fun. We were getting up at 5 am and trying to reach our destination before 12 pm. After reaching our destination, there’s not much you can do. It's too hot to walk around, too hot to do anything, and everyone is equally avoiding the heat. Every town turns into a ghost town after 12 pm. We were picking hotels with swimming pools to keep ourselves busy during the afternoon. It worked in Taghit, and we were actually able to relax with the shade from the trees and some casual breeze, but in Timimoun, we weren’t so lucky. There was no natural shade near the hotel pool, and it got really uncomfortable. Everything was literally burning hot to the point we actually burned our hands and feet trying to use the pool. That day, the thermometers registered 49ºC at 5 pm.
On the fourth day of our trip, we rode from Taghit to Timimoun. The day started early for us with already 36ºC on the thermometer. It got hotter and hotter by the minute, and after 100 km we were already facing 40+ temperatures; it only got worse. We went through every tactic to cool ourselves down, but it was useless. 150 km from reaching Timimoun, we stopped at one of the last fuel stations before our destination. We took a break, but long breaks mean you’ll ride in even higher temperatures, so we tried to keep them short even when we really needed a longer one (like in this case). As soon as we left the gas station, we faced a sandstorm. It started as something tolerable, and I thought it would not last long, but that was not the case. It got worse every km, so bad to the point where you couldn’t even see the road or the motorcycle dashboard. The sand just blasted and got inside everything: our helmets, our gear, even the switch to turn the hazard lights was blocked with sand. I was forced to slow down a lot, which made it harder to deal with the wind gusts. It became more physically demanding and exhausting, especially dealing with the temperature. I started to worry that the bike could overheat and we would have to stop, which would be the worst place and time for that. After these long and tortuous 150 km, we reached Timimoun. My mood got better, and we went straight to the first gas station to fuel up, get off the bike, and appreciate that we got there and everything was okay. However, it wasn’t. Eduarda passed out, and my adrenaline rushed again. The situation made everyone at the fuel station take frozen water bottles from their cars and trucks to help out as they could. I got her a hydration solution, and she ate. She got better but not enough to get on the bike. I stopped a taxi and got her inside; our hotel was just a couple of km away. With no navigation as the phone couldn’t handle the temperature, I drained my last bit of energy trying to reach the hotel through very sandy streets. When we both got in our room, we both collapsed under the AC. After this, we knew we weren’t going to reach Tamanrasset, and our plan had to change again.
In the end, our trip took us from Timimoun directly to Ghardaia, where we could finally experience some of the culture and walk around the market late in the afternoon. Our route was the following:
Oran - El Abiodh Sidi Cheikh - Taghit - Timimoun - El Menia - Ghardaia - El Oued - Tozeur - Sousse - Tunis - Bizerte - Tunis



Getting Out
Unlike entering Algeria through the port of Oran, the border of Taleb el Arbi resembles more of an African border and is more demanding in terms of time. When leaving Algeria, we got charged a fee of 12,000 Algerian dinar for the fuel (a way of trying to get foreigners to pay more for the cheap fuel there?!?). The whole thing seemed legit, and they had a receipt ready. But I was caught by surprise and decided to act dumb, pulled the Ronaldo card, and got away without paying it.
It took us 3 hours to get out of Algeria, a lot of waiting and repeating ourselves to different officers. In the process, one officer found that my bike's VIN number was not on the TIP paper and tried to escalate that into something. I played it cool, laughing and repeating, “I guess your colleague in Oran forgot about it,” showed him the VIN number on the bike and on the bike document, and after some waiting, he let us go. Again, thinking about it, it was surely a “give me something” situation, but the difficult communication and my genuine lack of understanding the signs made him quit.
On the Tunisian side, everything was easier. Two booths, two officers, and we crossed it in less than an hour. We bought insurance directly from the border police officer while getting the bike in (that was a first for me)—25 euros for 15 days. And off we went.

Final Thoughts
Algeria is an awesome country to discover, and I am surely going back to finish what was initially planned. Avoid my mistakes (or not); riding during the summer is very challenging. Thanks to Ed Gill for helping me with some doubts before the trip, and thanks to Chris Scott for keeping valuable up-to-date info (a real public service) and also for the inspiration with the Arak rock photography trip report!
Cheers and happy travels!

Glad that you and your girlfriend are back home and hopefully all safe and well.

I must admit I hadn’t realised that you were planning to travel in July! The Adrar Region in particular is bad enough in late September/October let alone high summer so this was definitely brave to try!

Part of me wonders whether the time of year influenced the embassy’s decision on your visa. But then again the official situation is still so unclear on that front, there appears to be no consistent policy.

Your story is definitely one for others considering this trip to note - time of year is hugely important here. For me, early October to late March/early April is the time to go. Outside of that the logistics, particularly for any piste riding, just become too difficult in terms of safety, volume of water you need tk carry etc.

Ed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Where Next Barney? Buenos Aires to Lima 2015 | London to Sydney 2015/6 | Armenia, Georgia & the FYR 2022 | Algerian Sahara 2023.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 3 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2015 - Heading east from Europe, add your itinerary / plans kim Travellers Seeking Travellers 190 5 Mar 2016 08:38
Importing vehicle on Carnet into South Africa Duty Free (Returning South African) langebaan sunset Trip Paperwork 6 14 Nov 2013 19:28
Latest updates from Algeria TurboCharger North Africa 2 6 Dec 2011 15:26
Carnet_ How Do I Get One In South America? gusonopa South America 9 6 Jan 2010 15:00
Information wanted from experienced bikers in South America joentje100 South America 35 1 Jan 2010 04:00

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

ALL Dates subject to change.

2025 Confirmed Events:

  • Virginia: April 24-27 2025
  • Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
  • Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
  • CanWest: July 10-13 2025
  • Switzerland: Date TBC
  • Ecuador: Date TBC
  • Romania: Date TBC
  • Austria: Sept. 11-14
  • California: September 18-21
  • France: September 19-21 2025
  • Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:40.