So we've made it to Alexandria
Crossing Libya from Tripoli to the border was a complete doddle and at no point did we feel threatened or concerned despite the hype. Had we known it would have been okay we would have ridden the bikes as opposed to jumping on a truck.
Advice:
Prebook all hotels in advance and if you cannot ensure you arrive at your destinations well before sunset and look for a hotel. An ideal travel route we would suggest is:
Tripoli - Misrata - Ajdabiya (difficult to find online hotel but there are three odd big ones in the town and near major roundabouts)
- Torbruk - Sidi Birrani (Egypt side).
The roads between
Tripoli and Misrata are very poor so although it seems a short distance there are a fair few check points and you cannot really hammer it through!
Ajdabiya - Torbruk is straight through absolutely nothing!! So take food and water for the trip and fill up with petrol beforehand (some petrol stations dotted at the beginning and end but not necessarily any petrol available)
Leave Tobruk as EARLY as possible to reach the border.
We did spot areas you could wild camp but it is not recommended by locals to be so exposed at night at the moment.
Libyan to Egyptian Border:
Very simple and painless to cross. If you've had to pick up number plates remember to return and collect any monies you originally paid.
Egyptian Entry Border:
Absolute nightmare. Preparation suggestions:
Monies. Take plenty of Dinars and Egyptian Dollars our beforehand in prep. You will need to pay for number plates (I believe 500 Egyptian Dollars each returnable on exit) and 15US Dollars for visas. Be prepared to bribe.
Make your VIN number accessible. Unfortunately our bikes are built in a fashion where half the VIN number is hidden. This caused us 3 or 4 hours of politics and pain as they need to take a rubbing of it to clarify it is your vehicle.
Do NOT in any situation leave your vehicle unattended. If you are alone ask a guard to keep an eye on it and leave it away from the crowds but within view and in a lit area.
Expect to be grilled. We had it bad because of Sam's Arabic name and inability to actually speak Arabic. Also we had problems because we were with a Libyan Driver. Do not bite if they interrogate, just smile and keep it light.
Do not speak about any politics or about Libya. If they ask your opinion just dodge the question and say you are travelling as there are some animosity between the two countries.
If female: Cover your hair and dress modestly, you will get a lot of attention. Keep your head down and ignore it. Because we were stuck for 7 hours we ended up caught at night and there are continuous rolling black outs. During one I was groped and pockets were grabbed but I managed to have a successful knee jerk reaction. I was also hit on by a border guard who tried to get in the van with me at a later time when I was alone. It wasn't a good situation particularly when he started tapping his gun on the window. Due to this I would recommend staying in view of as many officials and in a well lit area as possible.
If female with fella: let the bloke do all the talking and chasing around. Stay with your vehicle, again in a well lit and visible area.
I think no matter what the news states it would be possible for anyone to pass through the border with time and money. Expect the worst and hope for the best! Enjoy it (as much as you can!!) and try not to get too angry at the bureaucracy!