Just returned from Libya, thought there will be a catch with the visas having been so easy, well there is:

Contrary to several previous experiences when things were surprisingly smooth and flexible, this time the trip was a continuous series of hassles with officialdom. We were forced to take three (!) escorts, one from the agency issuing the visa, one tourist police, and one official guide, all this despite having rented vehicles locally (no escort was needed aside the drivers in the past).

Desert itineraries are tightly controlled, one is allowed only a straight line along a piste from checkpoint to checkpoint (and a surprising number of new ones have sprung up, even in the remote and previously empty south-east), and you must havre every single destination listed on the permit, otherwise no-go.

It is unclear whether this applies to all of the desert areas of the country due to the Algeria events, or only to the south-east where things seem to be rather tense due to the rebelion in Darfur. We met several army patrols in remote deep desert areas south of Kufra, and also there is a permanent army post at Wau Namus (with the usual heaps of trash such a post entrails).

Unless you plan to do a tightly controlled 'tourist circuit' along the beaten path, advise to stay away from Libya for the time being until regulations are relaxed.

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Happy Travels,
Andras

FJ Expeditions

Oh dear. It looks like we're running out of countries! All we need is for Mori to turn the screws and I'll have to open up a secondhand Sahara bookshop...

Ch

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Morocco Overland 4 pre-order for Xmas • Trans Morocco Trail

What a bummer. How much did you have to pay for all these guides?

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If a thing is worth doing, it\'s worth doing to extremes.

To Chris : don't be so sad , may be it's possible to return to Algeria in next monthes !

Just been to see Khalifa Hamed who confirms that the police and guide are necessary everywhere, not just the South East. The new rule was announced quite abruptly, taking him by surprise and doing nothing for the growth of his businss. It seems that travellers wandering the desert, especially solo ones, are regarded as a liability.

So bye bye Libya....maybe another year.

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If a thing is worth doing, it\'s worth doing to extremes.

It's not so much the extra cost (which of course does hurt) but the enormous hassle factor and constant irritation. The guys forced on you have absolutely no idea or feel for why we're going to the desert, and make no attempt to try to understand.

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Happy Travels,
Andras

FJ Expeditions

The rate at which Libya changes the rules for visas/guides and border formalities is one source of hope that new regulations won't maintain in Libya for ever. At the moment it doesn't seem like its worth going there.

O dear, I've been telling all my friends after I visited Libya for five weeks, two years ago, that this finally whas THE perfect country to visit... easygoing, no hassles, nice people...
But, I told them... be in a hurry, once they discover tourists it will change...
I have to get rid of my crystal ball!!!!

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[This message has been edited by ***Mark*** (edited 10 November 2003).]