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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #106  
Old 12 May 2016
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You can do it yourself. The touts are good if there are any problems, and if you arrive on a busy day.
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  #107  
Old 25 May 2016
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I just did this today, as I saw a lot of conflicting information on the internet, here is exactly what I had to do to cross;

Drove to the Moroccan border, the two gas stations were both out of fuel. when I arrived there were a lot of cars/trucks lined up OUTSIDE the gate to the border facility. I parked behind these and went to a currency exchange on the left to get 120 Euro for the visa. I then got back on the moto and I drove straight to the front of the line, a guard at the gate handed me a Fiche, which I filled in. He looked at it and let me through into the compound. I drove forward 50m and parked in the middle. You give your passport and vehicle registration document to a police officer who goes to the building on the right named "Gendarmerie" or whatever they call it. He looks at it in his room for several minutes then gives it back to you.

Now go to the building directly opposite on the other side of the road (left) which is the passport office, give passport and Fiche that you filled out earlier. He stamps you out of Morocco. Now go back to the moto (whatever vehicle you have), give your TIP to a police officer hanging around the cars, they sign it, then you take it to the next building on the right named "Douane", which is the next building up from "Gendarmerie". Here you go to the first office on the left, they take your passport, TIP and registration document (carte gris). They sign and stamp it. You now go back to your vehicle and give the signed, and stamped TIP to the nearby police officer around your vehicle. They will look at it, then you can go up to the next barrier in your vehicle. At the barrier, you get out/off your vehicle, and go to a tiny white building right next to the barrier where they look at your TIP and write all the stuff in a book, then give it back to you. The police officer at the barrier will then let you past, here you must drive 20m forward, park yet again and go to another pinkish "Gendarmerie" on the right hand side. Go to the window and hand the guy your TIP, passport and registration document. He will write your info in a book and give the documents back to you. Now you can just get in your vehicle and go directly through the big final gate into no mans land.

There were many people driving across when I went, so I just followed a big truck who took the easy route (without sand). This was approximately 2km, easily doable in your own vehicle without a guide, the moto in some of the deep sand was difficult for me hence why I started following the truck after.

On arriving at the Mauritanian border, I was still at the bottom of the hill when a guy was running down the slope to me. I recognised this guy as Cheik from the pictures above. I took off my helmet and said "Cheik", he said "I remember you" which he didn't as this is the first time I've crossed. He said it would cost 20 euro, to which I said 10 euro and he said okay. If you want to do this yourself then read on, I will explain what he did.

He takes your passport and registration document (carte gris) to the first building on the left once through the gate, while you're parking on the right hand side of the gate. There are two guys in army uniform in this office and they look over your documents. No problem.

Next he goes to the next building up on the left hand side, (this building is white, and has a white concrete fence with pattern holes in it), there will be an open door on the right to enter an office. In here there is a long desk opposite, with 2 guys sitting behind the desk, this is where you get your visa. You give your passport over, they look through it for a while and deal with other passports at the same time. Eventually they ask you to take a seat in front of them, you sit there for a while and then you must scan your fingerprints several different ways. Sit there some more, and they will take your photograph with a webcam on the back of the computer. You then get out of the chair and wait around for a long while, then you pay 120 euro to the guy behind the desk and wait some more. Eventually you get your passport.

Now that you have your visa, next you need a TIP. Drive your vehicle about 100m, you will see a walled off compound on the right with a gap in the middle to walk through, park opposite on the left side of the road. walk into this compound and there are several buildings, go to the second building on the left, there are two guys in army rig in here who do the TIP. They wrote it out for me, as I had hired this guy Cheik to help out, maybe you would have to write it out yourself? This TIP gave me 1 week import and cost me 10 euro, I think it should have cost 7.5 but I couldn't be bothered arguing.

After this, you get back in/on your vehicle and drive another 100m up to a building on the left side of the road with a bunch of people crowded around trying to sell sim cards etc. You will know it is the right building as when you enter the door, there will be a door on the left, a door on the right, and if you go straight forward there will be a garden inside on the left. Take the left door first, here is where they will stamp you in to the country, drop your passport on the desk with registration document, eventually the guy will look at your passport and say your country name a few times for no reason. He will stamp you in to the country, and you can walk out. Walk into the door on the right, give your documents and scan your fingers yet again, get your documents back and walk out

Now I got back on the bike and went a further 100m to another building on the left, this has a big ramp up to it where there are a couple of tables and chairs, and a shop. This is where he had already arranged insurance and we waited for the document while I got a bottle of water, but if I was doing this again/alone I would just leave and get insurance in town.

This is where Cheik tried to f#$! me, I had paid 15 euro for insurance. When he brought out the papers it had only 3 days on it. I told him I wanted 10 days for the 15 euro I paid for. He tried to spin some BS about how the prices are changing all the time etc, I said no I want 10 days for the 15 euro simple as that. He got in a bad mood and went off, he came back and tried to kill time, like 30 minutes I waited there for this insurance to come back. Eventually he brought it back with the date just scribbled out and a new date put it, I don't know if this is official or not.

In total I paid:

120euro for visa
10 euro for TIP
15 euro for dodgy insurance
10 euro to Cheik

As I paid the 10 euro for Cheik and the 15 euro for insurance at the same time, I only had a 20 euro note which I gave him, but also 100 dirhams, he gave me back 1200 Oug change, 3 euro. So he dicked me 2 euro in the exchange but thats water under the bridge.

Overall I think I pretty much paid exactly what is required + arguably 12 euro for Cheik the fixer. I know I wanted 10 days insurance rather than 3, but purely out of principal that I'm not going to let him pocket the change if I can help it, in reality I am spending 1 night in Nouakchott and getting out of here. It's boring, its a huge desert, fuel is SUPER expensive, apparently Auberge du Sahara has bed bugs and there is not really much else to do here.
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  #108  
Old 25 May 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priffe View Post
You can do it yourself. The touts are good if there are any problems, and if you arrive on a busy day.
Totally agree with Priffe. There's no need to use a fixer at this border it's all pretty straight forward.

By using a fixer it will encourage others and before long this border will turn into another Rosso/Diama mess with imaginary fees all over the place
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  #109  
Old 25 May 2016
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@Wanted

Nice detailed account and have a save journey!

Cheers,

Robert
__________________
'Those who have the money will get the experience and those who have the experience will get the money'
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  #110  
Old 25 May 2016
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I gladly part with 10 euros and have my tea in my car while my fixer does everything by himself.
Like most things insurance is negotiable in Mauri, no point getting upset about that.
TIP has always been 10 euros or 4.000 OUM, but it's validity can vary from a few days up to one month (depending on your input or that of your fixer .
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  #111  
Old 30 Jul 2016
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We will doing a roundtrip from Morocco down to Dakar by motorbike. We will arrive to Tangier from Genoa on next saturday and dont want to waste time waiting until monday to get visa in Rabat.
Anyone has information about double entry visa getting on Mauri border? Is it existing or not? Can we get it on border? How much does it cost?
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  #112  
Old 30 Jul 2016
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We will doing a roundtrip from Morocco down to Dakar by motorbike. We will arrive to Tangier from Genoa on next saturday and dont want to waste time waiting until monday to get visa in Rabat.
Anyone has information about double entry visa getting on Mauri border? Is it existing or not? Can we get it on border? How much does it cost?
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  #113  
Old 30 Jul 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netjack View Post
We will doing a roundtrip from Morocco down to Dakar by motorbike. We will arrive to Tangier from Genoa on next saturday and dont want to waste time waiting until monday to get visa in Rabat.
Anyone has information about double entry visa getting on Mauri border? Is it existing or not? Can we get it on border? How much does it cost?
Double entry visa not existing the last time I was there (april 2016), You can get it on the border. price: 120 euros each way, believe it or not.
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  #114  
Old 30 Jul 2016
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Only single entry when I passed the frontier in April. I did ask.
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  #115  
Old 22 Aug 2016
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visa update

hello,
are there any more comments about mauri visas bought in Rabat , being refused on the boarder because there not Biometric , or are they Biometric !
regards chris
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  #116  
Old 22 Aug 2016
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No problems at the border where they are indeed biometric
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  #117  
Old 24 Aug 2016
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They're finally going to fix the road:
Le Maroc entame le goudronnage d'une route à Guerguerat, près de la Mauritanie
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  #118  
Old 24 Aug 2016
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About time. Very easy little stretch of desert to fix.
There's something else going on. Morocco intends to take firmer control of the south of Western Sahara. Tensions with Mauretania are rising
http://blogs.timesofindia.indiatimes...-north-africa/
Dont think it will affect travellers as it is now, but good to know perhaps.
From a Moroccan perspective http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2016...roccan-border/
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  #119  
Old 24 Aug 2016
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Interesting pro-Moroccan article.
Why would Mauritania hand over La Guera to the Polisario?
It's miles from SADR territory.
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  #120  
Old 24 Aug 2016
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Power games only? Mauretania are even moving missiles to the frontier. Pulled their ambassador from Morocco some years ago. Raised their flag in La Gouira (not the SADR flag). I dont think Mauretania love the Polisario any more than arabs love palestinians, but perhaps they can be used for a purpose.
Most all imports to Mauretania come from Morocco, direct or transit. Increased trade is really a win-win for both.
At the same time, Morocco - Algeria relations may be changing as Morocco reclaims its seat at the African Union. Algeria Expresses Willingness to Fostering Ties with Morocco | The North Africa Post While they are building fences (Morocco) and trenches (Algeria) along 700 kms of the border.

Last edited by priffe; 26 Aug 2016 at 13:44.
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