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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 8 Jan 2017
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Mauritania

More clarification desired...and sorry for that...

So...the new price of visa at the border is now *55 eur* and not 40 as was annouced/rumoured? And what is the advice on paying 10 eur to the fixer...s it worth it or it is easy enough to just do it on your own? I am travelling by autostop/by public transport.

Thanx!!!

A
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  #2  
Old 9 Jan 2017
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Hi
I have an easy question for you. I am planning my first trip to Senegal and reading this topic, a doubt come to me. Can you pay the visa in euros? Or you have to pay it in local currency?
Thanks!!
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  #3  
Old 9 Jan 2017
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We paid in Euros. I don't think they'd even want local, but I suppose anything's possible.

For the fixer question, having now done it once already, I would use cheikh again.

For a first-timer, nothing is labelled, and finding the right place (particularly when the biometric guys show up 3 hours late) is near impossible. Nobody is helpful.

That's not why I'd buy the fixer, though.

Once the people show up to start doing biometric work, the fixers, on behalf of their clients, re-arrange the order of "presentation" for the border personnel. Constantly. like, fixer A puts his dude on top, then fixer B notices, puts his dude on top, repeat. The border people are diddling with their cell phones while this all goes on. Negotiations occasionally "break out" among the parties. The applicants just line the wall, shell-shocked, while the game plays out.

Cheikh is clearly the biggest A-hole of the group. You want to be the passports he's putting on top of the pile, and you want to be the one on whose behalf he yells at guards, visa processing people, and other fixers, because he seems to win the arguments.

Treat it like an amusing bit of African or Arab bureaucratic theater, and it all makes a bit more sense.

My $0.02

- Mike
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  #4  
Old 12 Jan 2017
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I can confirm the visa fee is now €55 in euros with change given plus €10 for TIP. 6/1/17

I didn't use a fixer, and thanks to wanted's excellent description a few pages back navigated all the buildings with limited French. No coruption or 'cadeau' requested, just bureacracy. Took 3.5 hours from arriving at morocco side to finishing mauritania side. Most time was waiting for the visa guys in mauritania to finish lunch and then prayers (1.5 hours).

No fixer used, again thanks to wanted's descriptions. Those that are therequired generally aren't too bothersome. Cheikh is clearly top dog amongst them and seems pretty reasonable to deal with. All the fixers do is get you to the top of the pile, but it wasn't busy when I crossed so no issue.

I got tip for 20 days just by asking, so no need to extend in nouakchott.

One other thing, the Internet connection they have is unreliable and they can't do the visa without it. This meant the people an hour after me took 7 hours to cross. I also met an Italien guy in nouadhibou who had the same problem. It took him 13 hours including them escorting him and others to nouadhibou airport to do the visa and then taking them back to the border to finish off!

Hope that helps
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  #5  
Old 13 Jan 2017
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Thanx for all the info, especially to jamesallen and wanted. Really appreciate it.

Now to other things...I travel low-cost with my friend and we are now in Dakhla. We want to cross the border and get to Noadhibou. We don't have a vehicle and are travelling by hitch-hiking (preferably) and/or public transport.

As far as I understand the border closes at 18h and it is wise to be there as soon as possible in the morning. So...does anyone know about decent hotel options in Guergerat? Decent would mean that the price is ok (up to 100 dh for room for 2 persons) and hassle-free. What are options to get to the border crossing and then navigate the border from Morocco post...through no-mans-lan....to the end of Mauritania post...*without* own vehicle? Is it feasible to count on some european travellers that would be ready to take us with them?

After we successfully navigate the crossing, have visas in our passports and say goodby to the police...what about getting to Noadhibou...? I understand it is still 60-70 km to the town. Buses? Taxis? Hitch-hiking?

Sorry for asking so much...really thanx for all the answers!!
A
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  #6  
Old 13 Jan 2017
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Not been there myself for years but the Barbas hotel is 85km form the border and a likely place to get a lift.
No formal lodgings at the Mk border post, afaik.

Most overland travellers have little space in their vehicles, but locals use taxis I'm sure.
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  #7  
Old 13 Jan 2017
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Barbas will be your only lodging. It's basic, cheapish (I seem to recall 30 Eur for a double), and has a restaurant and fuel (which you won't need ) -- No A/C, Fan, or hot water. Wifi is janky and terrible but worked occasionally. Food was good.

...if you don't already have iOverlander, it is vital for discovering these sort of places that everyone uses.

You'll want to get there in early afternoon to start working your hustle to get a ride. I'm sure at some point a taxi or van roll through there, but we didn't see any.

Getting to the border at 9am sharp is possibly to your detriment, as the staff arrive late and there was a backlog for us, which caused delays. I imagine by noon the place is deserted and you can sail through.

$0.02 -- Good luck.

- Mike
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  #8  
Old 14 Mar 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
Not been there myself for years but the Barbas hotel is 85km form the border and a likely place to get a lift.
When you enter Bir Gandouz (& as marked on the map) there is a hotel behind that first filling station on the right about 200m before Barbas Hotel. It was great, a very clean room with en suite, from memory it cost us about 200Dh or less for a twin room, there's a restaurant downstairs & good wifi.

As for driving down Hazel, I did the same to Cote d'Ivoire mostly alone as a female in December, it's absolutely fine - we all had to drive through the stand off between the Polisario & Moroccans, UN chopper flying overhead & a few UN vehicles on the little mound to the left after the tarmac

At the Mauri border, I kept the fixers at bay and did it myself, I was done in 20mins or so (internet obviously had a good day) ... insurance took minutes, again from memory (left all the details in Cote d'Ivoire) it cost me about 15euros for a Mercedes Sprinter on the shortest time they'd give me, spent a total of 3 days in Mauri.
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  #9  
Old 19 Jan 2017
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You pay in euros.
Mauretanieans say the northern border post is run by two of the president's sons, so it is a family enterprise (must be lucrative) and if they can't decide on the cost that is a family feud.
Would be interesting to know if they offer multiple entry visa at the border. And what they offer in Rabat.
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  #10  
Old 26 Feb 2017
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Moroccans pull back from contested border area:
https://ledesk.ma/2017/02/26/mohamme...-de-guerguerat
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  #11  
Old 1 Mar 2017
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Slightly more detail on the above in an English version...

Morocco says forces to withdraw in Western Sahara's Guerguerat standoff | Reuters
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  #12  
Old 6 Mar 2017
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Polisario remain in Guergerate. If they were a bit smarter they would use this strip of land better to their advantage, for information/propaganda/political leverage/commerce (commerce not meaning their beloved contraband)
Sahara occidental : le Front Polisario campe sur ses positions dans la zone de Guergarate - JeuneAfrique.com

Last edited by priffe; 7 Mar 2017 at 11:54.
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  #13  
Old 14 Mar 2017
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getting visa/crossing moroccan and mauritania

Ive been reading all these threads and am driving a vehicle to ghana for an NGO in june.

Has anyone done the crossing morocco to mauri in the last week?

has anything changed due to recent events?

"Morocco says forces to withdraw in Western Sahara's Guerguerat standoff | Reuters"

can anybody tell me the cost of visa/insurance etc and whether they are still doing visa at the border?
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