Hello, I'm in Dakar right now and I need to get to Spain in May. I was thinking I would go overland through Mauritania, Western Sahara and Morocco. I am a 21 year old American girl and I will be travelling by myself. I went to the Mauritanian embassy in Dakar and they wanted to charge me $160 for the visa. They said it was a fixed price, but I'm not sure about that. So the questions I have are:
Is it better/even possible to just go to the Senegal-Mauritania border for the visa?
I know it's hard to get through the southern part of Western Sahara because there's no public transport. What is the best way to deal with that? Should I go to Nouadhibou and look for people going north who have an extra seat? Or should I start looking in Nouakchott? Will it be hard to find someone who's going north?
Also, just so my mom doesn't worry too much, do you think it's safe for a young girl to be traveling alone in this region. I speak French and Arabic (but not African Arabic) and I've traveled a lot, but I've heard some bad stories about bandits! Any information you have would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Lisa

Never entered Mauri from that direction but $160 seems hugely excessive!

As for heading North, many overlanders are now missing out Nouadibhou altogether so I would say your best bet for a lift is to tour the campsites in Nouakchott.

Tourist overland traffic in May will be low, but my guess is still findable. Once over the border into the WS, the campsite on the road into Dahkla (everyone know's it, but the name escapes me (EDIT: see TT-Kira's post below!) will be a good place for another lift North if you need it.

Waiting for a lift at the border might be uncomfortable - I wouldn't recommend it. Away from the borders, safety in Mauri has never struck me as a concern.

Good luck!

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Pictures, Mauritania 2011

US Citizens could (last year) get a visa on the border - I know that for sure, it was 20euros; now that the govt's changed I'm not sure if this is still the case. I'd suggest to go and ask at somewhere like Zebrabar outside St. Louis or Via Via in Yoff, Dakar where other travellers are and will probably have more up to date info.

Going north:
If you're in NKT, then try:
Camping Menata, Auberge de Sahara, Auberge des Nomades. I reckon your best bet would be the first of those and go directly to the top and ask them what they know about their guests movements.

In NBD try:
La Baie du Levrier (ask Ali - he's the owner and very helpful - managed to me a lift north with some Germans in LandCruisers). Camping Imal & Camping Abba. Alternatively, get yourself out to the police post by the T-junction where the road splits north to Dahkla & south to NKT, be nice to the police and see if you can't get a taxi from there (a lot cheaper than getting one from town) - If you're lucky Ali will write you a note to give to the police

When you get to Dahkla, the camping place is Camping Moussafir, it's about 300m north of the last police barrage of town. Very handy for getting lifts normally - you should be OK at this time of year - I planned it wrong and everyone was heading south.

Remember, if you don't ask you don't get! But keep your eyes peeled!

Bonne chance

Kira

Just to add to TT-Kira's list of places in Nouakchott, The Nouvelle Auberge (opened last year, hence the 'Nouvelle') is another good place to try, very helpful owners. Opposite the Ministry of Energy building.

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Pictures, Mauritania 2011

Just read all about it in TT-Kira, you see her links there, a couple up from this post. She did all that and more(and even put up with some "man", if we can call him that, tagging along) so you'll do fine, just be mindfull thats all.

Im a traveller from England and in a similar situation to the American lady in Dakar- Im in Bamako, Mali, I dont have my own vehicle and trying to get to Morocco (as quick as possible to meet my friend) via the western sahara route, thus all the responses to her queries have been very useful. However, most people seemed to be talking just about getting lifts with overland tourists. I was wondering if anyone can comment on the feasibility of just trying to hitch on the Northward road out of Nouadhibou, is there any Northward traffic, freight lorries, irregular "public" transport etc?
Also;
does anyone know about visas at the border for British citizens?

The rough guide (2003) says there is public transport from South from Morocco to Dakhla. This surely implies that there should be public transport North to Morocco from Dakhla. Can anyone confirm or refute this?

And finally, TT-Kira seems to be suggesting that you can take a taxi from North of Nouadhibou to Dakhla. Is this not fabulously expensive?
Thanks .

Right; I'll have a bash at this.

Going north there are mercedes, Jan 2006 it was 8,500UM to go from NBD to Dahkla ... if you picked up the same transport from the police post north of NBD it was around 6,000UM mark if you are trying to save money. However it seems (mysteriously) that there isn't (wasn't) as much going north as coming south.

There's NO 'public' transport yet, although CTM were meant to have started a service apparently it's not up and running as they had a financial loss earlier last year. So it's 1. Overlanders 2. Taxi brousse 3. Anything with wheels!

As for being British, (I'm Irish) I'm pretty sure you'd be OK, I've crossed with an Aussie, Italian, American & met a variety of nationalities who've done that border without getting a visa in advance. But do check it as the govt's just changed! Also DON'T pay the border guards as you'll make it harder for the rest of us, they're quite crafty at times!!!

Be careful of the border times, I know a few people who've slept there. You want to be on the road by 10am at the latest as the Moroccans close for ?2hrs for lunch ...the border shut at 7pm (or 7.30pm) last year!

Kira

I'd check this as they are apparently now only giving short transit visas at the Northern border (see earlier thread). Might be safer to get your visa in advance .

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Pictures, Mauritania 2011