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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
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Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 21 Sep 2022
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Questions planning motorcycle trip to Senegal during Christmas (and back to Spain)

Hello guys,

I am planning a motorcycle trip from Spain to Senegal during Christmas for some 20-25 days (round trip coming back to Spain). So, Morocco, Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia (maybe Guinea?)


I have been out of “business” for a long time and my information is probably outdated. I will do my research, but some initial help would help me greatly to focus on relevant issues. So I would be very thankful if you could give me hand about relevant information.


Questions:


1) Roads. To my understanding, there will be plenty of straight road in Sahara and Mauritania, So comfort and speed may be an issue. In my –limited- experience in previous trips and considering the short duration, there will probably much less unpaved roads than I may plan ahead. My V-Strom handles reasonably well easy gravel roads, as I do it here.

2) Vehicle. I heard that in Senegal there was Carnet, then removed, but then Laissez-Passer with limitation with age of vehicles. Confusing. What’s the situation now to get in those countries?


I could have 3 options of bike:


a) Suzuki V-Strom 650 with plates (2012) – Comfortable, readily available, but heavy as a pig.
b) Honda Dominator 250 (to be registered, since I had it in Switzerland before moving back to Spain) (1991, good condition). Very nimble and easy to fix anywhere if it breaks down.
c) Buying a new Tenere 700 after selling the V-Strom, since here in Spain I prefer so much off-roading (in Switzerland it was almost impossible). But I would avoid putting so many kms on the clock on a new bike.

3) VISAS: which ones can be obtained on the border or have to be issued before the trip?

4) COVID? I have 2 doses, for sure in Morocco I need 3 or PCRs (I was there with my daughter 1 month ago by car). What’s the situation in the rest of countries? I think I would need the –damn- 3rd dose to move easily.

5) Any concerns with diseases as Malaria at that time of the year? I won’t get pills since I am highly sensitive to side-effects, but would bring Malarone –or whatever it is advised- with me in case I catch it.

6) Any other concerns? Security? I would love so much to visit northern Mali, but it seems to remain a no-go area. Do you recommend trying to get to Guinea having such a short time to travel?

I am new to this area and mainly to Africa –apart from Northen countries and South Africa, which to me doesn’t count- so any advice is more than welcome.

See you on the road,

Esteban

Last edited by estebangc; 21 Sep 2022 at 19:59.
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  #2  
Old 21 Sep 2022
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Here are the Suzuki DL 650 and the Honda NX 250 (mono, but 6 gears) - Didn't get into the topic of luggae, but no topcase or hard luggage for the trip. Soft luggage only.
Attached Thumbnails
Questions planning motorcycle trip to Senegal during Christmas (and back to Spain)-v-strom-650-trail-riding.jpg  

Questions planning motorcycle trip to Senegal during Christmas (and back to Spain)-nx-250-dominator-1.jpg  

Questions planning motorcycle trip to Senegal during Christmas (and back to Spain)-nx-250-dominator-2.jpg  

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  #3  
Old 5 Oct 2022
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Hi Esteban,
like you say, roads nearly all the way so I would stick with the comfy V-Strom you know
I rode to RIM border last year:
https://sahara-overland.com/2020/04/...antic-highway/
I think a 250 Domi would be agony unless you are a Zen monk.
Longest piste will be to Diama, if you go that way.

For the CdP and visa for Senegal see the sub Sahara forum.

I think all visas are at the border. Certainly RIM.
https://sahara-overland.com/mauritania/

With vax, I am guessing Morocco would be most strict.
So south from there 2 may be enough.

I would not bother with malaria pills for a quick ride to Dakar. Just use spray and a treated net, if needed. I imagine December will be mosquito low season.

I think Guinea could be an adventure and you may have time and energy.
See how you feel in Dakar then get a visa.

bonne route
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  #4  
Old 5 Oct 2022
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I haven't done that route for a decade or so, but it's a looong way, and can concur that the main roads through Western Sahara and Mauritania are boring straight with little variation of scenery, mainly scrubland. Nevertheless I found it more bearable to slow down, look carefully at what I was passing, and travel at 80 kph rather than 120 kph.

Northern Senegal is also fairly boring, very flat, everywhere looks the same. Very friendly locals, handsome guys, beautiful women, surprisingly expensive—more like Spanish prices than Morocco.

Morocco has dropped all Covid restrictions, so no need for three vaccinations or a PCR. Don't know Mauritania or Senegal restrictions, but you would still be well advised to get a third dose booster (I've now had four doses).

I would definitely take a very loose fitting mossy net, but no need for meds. I've had really bad reactions, and as Chris writes, the risk is low in the winter. I use Avon 'skin so soft' for low level protection, and Boot's Repel (50% Deet) against sand flies and other beasties. Not been to Guinea, so can't help there.
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  #5  
Old 6 Oct 2022
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Scenery

Shame about the beautiful women bit.I was thinking more about Rossiter Rhinos and crocs
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  #6  
Old 6 Oct 2022
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Hippos
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  #7  
Old 9 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
Hi Esteban,
like you say, roads nearly all the way so I would stick with the comfy V-Strom you know
I rode to RIM border last year:
https://sahara-overland.com/2020/04/...antic-highway/
I think a 250 Domi would be agony unless you are a Zen monk.
Longest piste will be to Diama, if you go that way.

For the CdP and visa for Senegal see the sub Sahara forum.

I think all visas are at the border. Certainly RIM.
https://sahara-overland.com/mauritania/

With vax, I am guessing Morocco would be most strict.
So south from there 2 may be enough.

I would not bother with malaria pills for a quick ride to Dakar. Just use spray and a treated net, if needed. I imagine December will be mosquito low season.

I think Guinea could be an adventure and you may have time and energy.
See how you feel in Dakar then get a visa.

bonne route

Thanks so much for the answer, Chris. As always, spot on.



Sorry for replying late, but had some contraints and could not "work" on the preparation. The plan goes on despite some little odds



I am sticking to the V-Strom, as you said.



I checked the tyres you mention in AMH and thought about Motoz Tractionator Adv due to the durability everyone states about this brand. Or the more road oriented Tractionator GPS more road oriented (it is still a V-Strom). After reading your comments about the ferry in Rosso, I may try the piste to Diama. So, GPS would suffice? What about noise? I would thankful to know.



I am now filling the "fiche" in English and French (thanks for the template) and reading as much as I can from your southern trip account.


Morocco lifted Covid requirements and checking others now, but 2 doses should be enough.



Regarding Guinea or Guinea Bissau, I feel great curiosity for the 2nd, due to Portuguese influence. Once in Senegal and timing, it would be the time to decide, since I have a work obligation earlier than expected.


Thanks so much again,


Esteban



PS: I am loving your packraft and inflatable kayak books. I didn't know that "series". Packrafts are amazing!
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  #8  
Old 9 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Cullis View Post
I haven't done that route for a decade or so, but it's a looong way, and can concur that the main roads through Western Sahara and Mauritania are boring straight with little variation of scenery, mainly scrubland. Nevertheless I found it more bearable to slow down, look carefully at what I was passing, and travel at 80 kph rather than 120 kph.

Northern Senegal is also fairly boring, very flat, everywhere looks the same. Very friendly locals, handsome guys, beautiful women, surprisingly expensive—more like Spanish prices than Morocco.

Morocco has dropped all Covid restrictions, so no need for three vaccinations or a PCR. Don't know Mauritania or Senegal restrictions, but you would still be well advised to get a third dose booster (I've now had four doses).

I would definitely take a very loose fitting mossy net, but no need for meds. I've had really bad reactions, and as Chris writes, the risk is low in the winter. I use Avon 'skin so soft' for low level protection, and Boot's Repel (50% Deet) against sand flies and other beasties. Not been to Guinea, so can't help there.

I totally agree, Tim! 80 km/h would be my top speed for travelling. And far less tiring! If time is available though



Yes! Covid restrictions dropped in Morocco, and seeking to avoid more doses, TBH. And mosquitoes, I will work on preventing the bitting, as I have always done. I bought the Avon one already to have it at home too for my daughter!


Greetings from Western Andalusia! (Seville, to be more precise, so we share the same region)
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  #9  
Old 9 Nov 2022
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Cool Consider the risk for life

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
I would not bother with malaria pills for a quick ride to Dakar. Just use spray and a treated net, if needed. I imagine December will be mosquito low season.
It only takes ONE to ruin your life...
and if you think that ONE mozzie doesn't make a difference...
Try sleeping ONE night with one...

Last edited by Toyark; 20 Apr 2023 at 17:59.
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  #10  
Old 9 Nov 2022
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Talking But you could be lucky

in only coming across Canadian mozzies who seem to only drink from bottles.
Merry Christmas everyone!

Last edited by Toyark; 20 Apr 2023 at 17:59.
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  #11  
Old 10 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyark View Post
It only takes ONE to ruin your life...
and if you think that ONE mozzie doesn't make a difference...
Try sleeping ONE night with one...
Hello Toyark,

I appreciate your comment, and I -and all, I guess- am aware of the risks. As I said I had a pretty bad reaction -to Chloroquine in Bolivia in 1999- so I have avoided since then. Not gone to high risks areas too, just brought Malarone with me in case.

I asked myself how it should be at that time of the year. So, just a straight answer to my question. But thanks for letting it clear if I wasn’t conscious.

Regards,
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  #12  
Old 11 Nov 2022
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No judgements hombre!

Hi Estebangc
Mosquitos can be deadly. A few years back, I had to urgently courrier meds to a friend in dire malaria trouble in South America. He told me it was a close call.
When it comes to health matters, water safety etc, my take is not to take ANY advice from forums but to seek it from qualified professionals; so feel free to disregard my, hopefully, humoured response to a very serious subject.
In the end, you have to live with the consequences of your choices.
Wishing you health and happiness in this season of Goodwill and an enjoyable trip.
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  #13  
Old 13 Nov 2022
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Hi there Esteban,
Watching your thread with interest as I might be heading the same way (Sierra Leone via both Guineas) in Jan/Feb.
I haven´t done a lot of research yet, but to my understanding (according to spanish´ MAEC latest info) Senegal requires CDP...which source did you check about CDP requirements in Senegal?
About your bike choice, If you decide to buy the tenere (I did) plan on buying an AirHawk or a new saddle (I bought an AirHawk knockoff from Amazon and it saved my butt on longer trips). I will be riding my F650 GS though, as I plan on donating her at the end of my trip.
Hope to hear from you and your trip again! V´s y Buen viaje!

Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc View Post
Hello guys,

I am planning a motorcycle trip from Spain to Senegal during Christmas for some 20-25 days (round trip coming back to Spain). So, Morocco, Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia (maybe Guinea?)


I have been out of “business” for a long time and my information is probably outdated. I will do my research, but some initial help would help me greatly to focus on relevant issues. So I would be very thankful if you could give me hand about relevant information.


Questions:


1) Roads. To my understanding, there will be plenty of straight road in Sahara and Mauritania, So comfort and speed may be an issue. In my –limited- experience in previous trips and considering the short duration, there will probably much less unpaved roads than I may plan ahead. My V-Strom handles reasonably well easy gravel roads, as I do it here.

2) Vehicle. I heard that in Senegal there was Carnet, then removed, but then Laissez-Passer with limitation with age of vehicles. Confusing. What’s the situation now to get in those countries?


I could have 3 options of bike:


a) Suzuki V-Strom 650 with plates (2012) – Comfortable, readily available, but heavy as a pig.
b) Honda Dominator 250 (to be registered, since I had it in Switzerland before moving back to Spain) (1991, good condition). Very nimble and easy to fix anywhere if it breaks down.
c) Buying a new Tenere 700 after selling the V-Strom, since here in Spain I prefer so much off-roading (in Switzerland it was almost impossible). But I would avoid putting so many kms on the clock on a new bike.

3) VISAS: which ones can be obtained on the border or have to be issued before the trip?

4) COVID? I have 2 doses, for sure in Morocco I need 3 or PCRs (I was there with my daughter 1 month ago by car). What’s the situation in the rest of countries? I think I would need the –damn- 3rd dose to move easily.

5) Any concerns with diseases as Malaria at that time of the year? I won’t get pills since I am highly sensitive to side-effects, but would bring Malarone –or whatever it is advised- with me in case I catch it.

6) Any other concerns? Security? I would love so much to visit northern Mali, but it seems to remain a no-go area. Do you recommend trying to get to Guinea having such a short time to travel?

I am new to this area and mainly to Africa –apart from Northen countries and South Africa, which to me doesn’t count- so any advice is more than welcome.

See you on the road,

Esteban
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  #14  
Old 14 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navel View Post
Hi there Esteban,
Watching your thread with interest as I might be heading the same way (Sierra Leone via both Guineas) in Jan/Feb.
I haven´t done a lot of research yet, but to my understanding (according to spanish´ MAEC latest info) Senegal requires CDP...which source did you check about CDP requirements in Senegal?
About your bike choice, If you decide to buy the tenere (I did) plan on buying an AirHawk or a new saddle (I bought an AirHawk knockoff from Amazon and it saved my butt on longer trips). I will be riding my F650 GS though, as I plan on donating her at the end of my trip.
Hope to hear from you and your trip again! V´s y Buen viaje!
Hello Navel,

Glad to hear about your plans. Will be happy to share any info

Check this about Temporary Import to Senegal:

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...-without-89519

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...ithout-89519-2

No T7, I plan to ride the V Strom.

Gracias, buen viaje tu tambien!
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  #15  
Old 14 Nov 2022
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Location: Galicia, Spain
Posts: 5
Thanks for your message Esteban, I am still a bit doubtful about Senegal entry requirements, I checked the Senegal Douanes info page https://www.douanes.sn/ndn69/ (see section D) and it seems that you do need a CDP, I double checked with the german foreign office https://dakar.diplo.de/blob/1987124/...n-gmb-data.pdf and it also seems to point in that direction, though the info is a bit old...

I think the VStrom is a great choice for the looong slab through Western Sahara.

Maybe see you on the road! Best wishes,
Pablo (Navel)



Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc View Post
Hello Navel,

Glad to hear about your plans. Will be happy to share any info

Check this about Temporary Import to Senegal:

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...-without-89519

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...ithout-89519-2

No T7, I plan to ride the V Strom.

Gracias, buen viaje tu tambien!
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