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24 Oct 2014
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" Everything feels less daunting when there's someone else around to hold back the paranoia."
I totally agree with that!
And about trying to find travel's companions on forume and even in the country, don't forget (unfortunateky) to be as discreet as possible because some hostile ears can know your plans.
Have a good trip, Mauri is the only true "desert country" for the moment and it's very nice (I've tried last year).
RR.
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24 Oct 2014
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TGIF! so a little humour
Your garden is a dangerous place... !
Last edited by Bertrand; 2 Mar 2016 at 16:15.
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29 Oct 2014
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Thank you for your very informative post Chris. I'm currently waiting for a copy of your book to reach me and am looking forward to reading through the routes you've previously talked about. I'll definitely try to reach Atar if I can find someone to come with me, driving a D1 disco always worries me slightly in case of breakdown but then again that could happen anywhere!
I'll report back in full when I'm down in Mauri! thanks again
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5 Nov 2014
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Chinguetti and Ouadane?
Am planning a short-ish trip within the next month or two, flying into NKC and then driving up towards the piste you mention (the one that goes along the rail line headed east) to see how far east it is possible to go, and am interested to go to the area of Ouadane while i am there (i don't know if it is possible to go to see the Guelb er Richat? )... Does anyone know if that is possible or have a suggestion for a local contact around Chinguetti? Any recent travels in that area? Thank you.
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6 Nov 2014
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Western Sahara - Mauri - Senegal.
I came through here on the coast road 10 days ago on a bike. One thing to be aware of, if the Mauri customs belive you will pass directly to Senagal they make you pay extra, and take a guide. I narrowly missed this but others got caught.
A Dutch couple I met in Zebrabar, got through the border by 10am but waited all day for the guide who made them, and 15 other vehicles, drive through the night in convoy to be at Rosso by 9am the next day.
Rosso is of course as bad if not worse than ever.
Although on my own for much of the desert I had no security concerns.
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13 Nov 2014
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Does anybody have an idea why the British FCO have just changed the map for Western Sahara? The border area with Mauritania used to be yellow (against all but essential)....but is now showing as red.
Has something happened recently that I've missed? Or are they being cautious out of general concern?
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13 Nov 2014
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I don't know the answer in the case of the latest change to W.S. A couple of years ago the FCO map for Algeria changed suddenly and I asked the Political Secretary at the British Embassy in Algeria (whom I happened to be meeting about some science project in Algeria) why it had changed. He couldn't tell me the exact reason (which he knew) but it was changed as a result of some intelligence that the Algerians had picked up and passed on to the Embassy. Later it turned out to be interception of chatter relating to the convoy of insurgents in the region. So, in short, the change won't be random. There will be a reason.
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5 Mar 2017
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Border west Sahara-Mauretania
I passed there several days ago and notice any securety issues at the border. Take a fixer - Arturo is a good one probybly 50 years old.
The only astonishing thing was a Polisario stop just after no mansland. We made pictures and had fun with them. Nice guys.
Edwin
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20 Mar 2017
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Polisario
Update: my french friends just passed again the border and had this time troubles with polisario. My friend did have a sticker of Marocco on his hard case. Polisario forced him under gun fire to take it of, he sticked it on the polisario car and than they exploded, immediatly the UN forces came to calm down the incident, nobody understood why a stupid sticker can make them furious!
It's sensible there, take care, laugh as we did the way to etc.!!
It happened the 19th of march 2017
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7 Jan 2018
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Tensions returning to Guergarat
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11 Mar 2019
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I spent a week riding around in "the southern provinces of Morocco' (Western Sahara) during January 2019. I didn't go further south than Dhakla, and I didn't go off paved roads. But I did ride around quite a bit there.
In my opinion, the former Western Sahara (in fact, all of Morocco) is safer than a small village in rural Switzerland. The police have the area very well controlled, there are traffic stops about every 50 km on the main roads, and at the entrances to towns. The police are very polite & efficient - they recognize you are a tourist, have a quick look at your passport, and wish you a good voyage.
The main road down to Dhakla was in the final stages of being totally rebuilt when I was there. When it gets finished, it will be on par with any Swiss or German roadway - level, smooth, well engineered, and good sightlines.
I have no knowledge of Mauritania, I did not go south of Dhakla.
Michael
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