I'd concentrate on diameter rather than width. For a very small increase in turning circle (you have to adjust the lock-stops), you can fit 255/85-16's to a Defender.
It will raise your gear ratios a bit, and you will have to decide if this is a good or a bad thing.
When a tyre sinks into the sand a given depth, a larger diameter tyre provides less resistance (the "uphill" angle is more gentle). And big diameter tyres give deceptively good flotation when pressure is reduced (the length of the footprint is huge, even though the width may not be that impressive).
Another advantage is that other things being equal, you can run a bigger diameter tyre a bit softer without overheating the sidewalls as much, because there is more sidewall to absorb the flexing. (Having said that, there is more risk of the bead popping off, for the same reason).
While bigger tyres will add strain to your transmission (need more torque to turn them), this may be offset by the improved ground clearance, and the reduced susceptibility to potholes and corrugations.
If you go for wider OR larger diameter tyres than standard, you will probably need other rims. My choice would be steel Wolf rims as fitted to military vehicles. They are wider than normal, and have the correct offset. And for good measure, they are MUCH stronger than the standard LR rims.
I would fit tubes, but that's just me. If you fit tubes into a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim, check your pressures often after filling the tyre from empty, as the initial pressure reading can include air trapped between the tube and the tyre, which will escape gradually around the outside of the valve-stem. Wiggling the valve stem around while filling can help this air escape. Be aware that your tube may not last very long, as there are ribs inside the tubeless tyre which can apparently chafe the tube. This has never happened to me, though, and I always use tubes.
All this advice is free, and probaby worth every penny! IMHO, DYOR, YMMV, etc.
Regards,
Michael...
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SandyM
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