
17 Jan 2007
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kent, UK
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UK to The Gambia and back....quick debrief!
A few weeks ago I returned from a motorcycle trip to The Gambia. I travelled on a BMW F650 completing the 8800mile journey in 5 weeks.
This was my first big trip and at the planning stage I used this site extensively to research all the information that I needed plugging the gaps with other sources. I felt it would be handy to offer up a few snippets of information which I would have found handy before I went.
1. Security – I never had a problem with security in any of the countries that I went through even though I was travelling by myself for much of the time.
2. Morocco/Mauritania border – The route through the minefield is easy to follow. There are a number of tracks but you will not have a problem...as long as you stick on the track!
3. Mauritania/Senegal border – The Diama Dam/barrage crossing is still the crossing point of choice! I crossed via Rosso on the way down and lived to tell the tale! The scope for bribes/extortion does seem greater at Rosso however it would appear that the folks at Diama are starting to get greedy and are “upping” their prices as the crossing gets more popular. The piste running to Diama is beautiful, however I had problems finding the start of the piste and consequently got hoodwinked by locals who persuaded that the piste was flooded! For the benefit of others here are the coords for the beginning of the piste: N16˚ 30.739 W015˚ 48.742.
4. Carnet etc! I had a carnet for the trip this was my experience:
Morocco – No carnet required. You will get a number stamped in your passport and a form which you get signed when you take the bike out of Morocco. Cost – zero.
Mauritania – No carnet required. You will get a form which gets handed in to customs when you leave the country Cost – 10 euros. Having said that, on the way back they used my carnet rather than giving me a form!
Senegal – With a carnet they still charged me about 3 euros for the privilege of stamping it! If your vehicle is less than 5 years old it would appear that it is true that you do not need a carnet. In this instance you pay about 20 euros for a temporary import document (laissez passer, I think it is called) which is valid for up to 10 days, single trip. If your vehicle is over 5 years old you have to have a carnet or you can take your chances on someone accepting a big bribe (and I believe they are big!).
Gambia – They stamped my carnet for free. I get the impression that Gambia may apply the same rules as Senegal (after all you can’t get to Gambia without going through Senegal).
5. Insurance –
Morocco – Green card from UK insurers. You will be asked for it before they allow the vehicle in.
Mauritania – I bought insurance from a caravan at the border. You can buy it in Nouadhibou but beware there are Police checkpoints between the border and Nouadhibou where they will ask for insurance paperwork.
Senegal/Gambia – I bought insurance at Rosso which covered me for both countries, but probably got ripped off!
A note on these insurances worth bearing in mind: they really don’t cover much! If you demolish a house with your bike (possible, trust me on that!) or kill a cow you will have to pay for it. What it does do is prevent Policemen from fining you for not having it!
6. Camping – I camped pretty much every night, which was a surprise to me! Even in Mauritania there were Auberges where you can pitch your tent for next to nothing.
7. Fuel – With one exception availabilty of fuel is not a problem, but quality is! There is no unleaded past Laayoune (Western Sahara), and what is available is at best 91 RON. My bike ran OK but suffered a bit of pinking under acceleration. Fuel economy did suffer by about 20% though on bad batches!
There can be fuel shortages is Western Sahara so try to avoid the “I’ll have enough to get to the next fuel station” scenario, as there may not be any petrol when you get there!!
The one bad stretch which has been talked about recently is the 450km from Nouadhibou – Nouakchott on the new desert highway (not on any maps). There are no fuel stations at all, but there are people selling stuff pretending to be petrol on the roadside. Take it at your own risk, it would not be a nice place to get stuck!
There are a million other things I could pass on, but that would take the fun away from the experience!! However, if there is anything specific that someone would like to know then ask away. In the meantime those in the planning/thinking stage may like to check out my online diary at hitthegrit.blogspot.com where you can also find some pictures.
Sorry about the length, hope someone finds it useful!
Safe travels. Stop making excuses and just do it!!
Last edited by major moto; 27 Jan 2007 at 14:41.
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