Here are my thoughts on the western route to Tam (via Oran, Tlemcen, Ain Sefra, Bechar, Timmimoun and Adrar). Hopefully they will be helpful to others who decide to head down this way.

Oran is covered elsewhere. I then stayed for 2 days in Tlemcen. Beautiful place. The restaurants recommended by the guide books seemingly no longer exist, but the Pizzeria Ambiance was excellent (just north-east of the market).

The Hotel El-Mansour, recommended by the LP, was exactly as described - clean, cheap and well located. D600 a night. I found it hard to shake off the rather obsequious owner.

Then on to Ain Sefra, where I thought the Hotel Mekhter was overpriced at D3000 but there are no alternatives. If you do stay there, go for room 18. The best, according to the cleaning ladies.

The police in Ain Sefra seem to be at a loose end for stuff to do. They accompanied me eveywhere during my stay, but did not interfere with my movements.

The dunes at Taghit and Beni Abbes were stunning. Internet available in both. Minimal police presence.

Since leaving the port in Oran I have had absolutely no problems at police checkpoints. They have only stopped me as an excuse to chat and have a look inside the car. My passport has been looked at only once.

I met my guide at Kerzaz. Tanezrouft had indicated to me that people have struggled to get past this point without a guide. I found that they just waved me through. I asked the policeman at Reggane whether a guide is needed from Bechar to In Salah and he said no. I am convinced that you could get from Oran to In Salah without a guide. Luck always plays a part, though.

The police have been exceptionally friendly. I was stopped for speeding near Igli and the policeman invited me to his house for dinner. Typical of my experience with the authorities so far.

I have a guide organised for a tour of Tam-Djanet. I am wondering at what point I can continue north by myself, if at all. I intend to cross into Tunisia at El Oued/Nefta. Perhaps someone can advise.

I am at In Salah and leave for Tam tomorrow morning. Let me know if anyone wants to meet up there.

Genji

Hi Genji,

take a border post in the north of ThalebLarbi. The chief there is (was?) not so friendly, but perhaps he isn't there when you will leave the country.

Ferdi

"I met my guide at Kerzaz. " OK but , where is Kerzaz ?
If I understand well you've done Oran to ? without any guide ...
Good news
RR.

Kerzaz is between Beni Abbes and Timimoun.