Just a heads up, I drove a couple motorcyclists (and HU members) from Bishkek to the Uzbek border past Shymkent, Kazakhstan due to bad weather having settled in to Kyrgyzstan. We loaded their bikes into a Merc Vito and heading out of Bishkek toward Kazakhstan we decided to use the Chaldovar crossing rather than Kordai since it makes a straighter line. It might look straighter, but I suggest you try the Kordai crossing...Chaldovar is just to corrupt and backward.

We arrived near the crossing at around 19:25. We did not make it to the entry point until around 23:30. The line was long but not that long. There were a series of "fixers" who offered that if you paid they could get you in directly (they could also get your paper work and passport stamped without your car being examined). We declined. Once we got into the border we were separated and the riders sent ahead, then I was sent through after them. By time I got back to the van there were border guards there demanding money. I asked what was going on and they wanted to completely empty the van (despite the fact that it was obviously just a couple motorcycles). We offered to take out all the luggage for their inspection.

Three times the guard took me behind the van to ask for money. Three times I said no. Finally he angrily relented and told me that we could wait until all the other cars had cleared the border, then we would be allowed to go. After the next car to our left (we were right side in a double line) was let through and we were denied, I managed to pull left into the other line. At this point the guard had to let us go or block everyone, so we went through.

Another half an hour or so was spent sitting in no-man's land. There we watched a couple of tricked out Merc cars shuffling back and forth being used as mobile offices by the local gangsters. Payoffs were done in the open and these guys literally work out of cars stationed there in the no-man's land.

When we made it to the Kazakh side the car guys were nice, but the passport control area was pure mayhem. Again blatant corruption and smuggling with the crowd control guard who was more interested that his blue fur hat was on straight than in taking care of anything else. He quite literally spent most of the time primping in the security mirrors.

Finally around 2 AM we cleared the border. While this isn't the craziest border issue ever, if you're looking for easier passage, try out Kordai. I've been through on foot several times and my drivers/employees go through regularly and it's easier by far.

To be fair, I came back through from the Kazakh side and it took about 45 minutes...so maybe it was just luck of the draw, but still, Kordai is a better bet with a lot fewer local gangsters and much more professional guards (and you can take a new highway down to Merke, so it might even have a better road).

Bikes loaded in the van:


Unloading:

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9000 miles 'round the US riding two up on a ratted out 1985 Shadow 500 and now exploring Central Asia on a 1994 Honda Dominator...ride what you own where you are!