Hi, this summer we will be crossing down from Russian Altai to Kazakhstan, via Shemonaikha and Oskemen (on our way to Kyrgyzstan).

From Oskemen, this time, if we can get 2 weeks registration at the border, I am looking at a detour via East of lake Zaysan (road east from Oskemen to Zyryanovsk and then south following loosely the lake, then back joining the main road going south at Ayagoz.

We will probably also cross Altyn National Park from Saryozek, via Koktal and Shonzhy, and then into Kegen, crossing into Kyrgyzstan by a small border point nearby (instead of the main one near Bihskek/Almaty)

Any recommendations in this region? Is it worth going all the way to Arshaty (dead end going East in the mountains)? Suggestions, tips, points of interest, GPS waypoints, all welcome, if you have been exploring this area.

Thanks,

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Maria

www.franglais-riders.com

Salut Maria,
we went to lake Zaysan last year. Unfortunately, you can' t go all around the lake as the north/eastern side is in a border zone, for which you'd need a permit. Well, at least that's how much we could reckon from the russian signs we saw after we crossed the Irtysh (on a ferry).
We haven't been pulled over and didn't see any checkpoint but we didn't push our luck and tried to get into trouble so we turned around after we've looked at a curious rock formation, a little after Курчум (kurchum).

We don't have hard facts but the ferry captain was trying to tell us we wouldn't be allowed very far, but we don't know how far.

Laurent

PS: quelques photos sur notre site:
Kazakhstan | La Mongolie en 4x4

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2- and 4-wheeled explorer and photographer
Overland Aventure

Salut Laurent, merci pour l'info.


I suspect it might be a legacy of the Soviet Union as in Russia you need border permits...




So I googled "Kazakhstan Border permit" and found this in Caravanistan:


Kazakhstan border zone permit | Caravanistan


It lists all zones that are "restricted" and need special permits. Big shame as some parts looked very beautiful.


We will still try to explore the Altyn National park. Tourists are allowed there, hopefully we won't be made to have an guide....


I will report back when I get there.

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Maria

www.franglais-riders.com

Hi Maria

Why not try to get a permit? I found a tour agent in Oskemen and got it a few weeks ahead. They were called Altai Trial. The area is stunningly beautiful, once past Katon-Karaghay it's a National Park. I took a horse and trekked up to the very tip of Kazakhstan, magnificent views of Belukha.

One day I'd love to try the track up to Markakol Lake....

You can read about the trip / see photos here:

https://eurasiaoverland.com/2007/07/08/1ii/

You can cross 'Lake' Zaysan (it's a reservoir up near Zyryanovsk) on a ferry, an unusual experience in what is one of the most continental spots on the planet. It's nice but don't expect spectacular mountain views.

From Kokpekty I went SE towards the Chinese border, then turned west towards Ayagoz, a rough road in places but quite beautiful and definitely off the beaten track.

I would recommend stopping next in Tekeli. Again, you need a border permit to get to the most spectacular mountain areas (which i haven't been to), but walking above town there are gorgeous flower-filled meadows with great mountains views, see here:

https://eurasiaoverland.com/2011/06/08/28ii/

I haven't been to Altyn Emel NP as a guide is required, but the road from Zharkent through Shonzy to Kegen is nice. East of Kegen there are great views when the weather is nice, but you'll run into a border zone eventually.

Let me know if you have any specific questions,

EO

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EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

Thanks EO I will investigate these places.


I just came across this article in Astana Times:


Kazakhstan Loosens Restrictions on Visiting Border-Area Tourist Attractions




It seems they may be relaxing the border permit rules a little bit!

I will try to find a travel agency in Oskemen and ask what is the current situation.

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Maria

www.franglais-riders.com

Even though it should be allowed to visit Altai now for foreigners, I have heard border guards are still being difficult.

I have had little luck so far trying to find a tour operator in Altai who is reliable and still willing to deal with the border guard. I googled Altai Trial but they seem to be inactive.

Домен припаркован в Казахстане - PS.kz


Please let us know how you fare! I hope to bluff my way in this summer too.

Hi Maria,
I´m currently in Almaty. I was touring Kirgistan too. And will be heading to Altai in some days. Have a look on my blog !

Good luck and safe travels!