Recent experience in Kazakhstan
Here comes my update… I drove about 3500km (Korgas-Alamaty-Turkestan-Astana).
Re Police:
I was stopped by the police three times in total; only once due to a speed control in a village on the way to Turkestan. Till I dug my passport out of the backpack they already lost interest. Within 3 mins I was back on the road without paying a fine or bribe. The other two times (Astana, Kostanay) they stopped me out of curiosity and to take pictures with me.
Re coverage with petrol stations and road conditions:
There’s no petrol station along the 430 km stretch from Kyzylorda to Zhezkazgan and about ¼ to 1/3 of it is unpaved. Everywhere else the range of about 250 km with the original tank of my BMW Xchallenge was enough and the road conditions are OK if you are traveling on an Enduro; the many constructions sites are tedious though.
Re Registration:
There is an office at the hotel I stayed at in Almaty (Hotel Saulet, mentioned in the Lonely Planet) that can do the registration for you. It costs 5000 Tenge and you’ll get your passport back in the evening of the following day (or same day if you give it to them early in the morning).
Cheers,
Kevin
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