Sakhalin Island - safe?

[GreenLaner]

Now for the horror stories...

I'm trying to get to Sakhlain from Wakkanai, Japan by ferry either by bike (Transalp) or truck (Bighorn).

So far, we've obtained international licenses and international car plates, but are now stuck at the "Letter of Invitation Point".

A few Russian tourist agencies have offered to provide us with one, after we transfer $1500 US to them via Western Union (including hotel bookings).

Since I'm not about to pay cash in advance, we're stumped: how to get the darn LOI?

Meanwhile, my wife has been collecting horror stories about Sakhalin from her friends in Japan, along with the Japanese Embassy in Sakhalin:

- foreigners are being robbed by Russian youth at gunpoint

- cars and bikes are stolen frequently, even old smokey 4WDs like mine, and old Transalps

- a Frenchman was recently murdered in Sakhalin; several Japanese tourists attacked

- don't even think about going out at night

- every car MUST have an alarm

When a self-professed member of the Russian mafia heard about our trip (long story) he said basically the same things, and even offered to 'protect' us while in Sakhalin.

Has anyone been to Sakhalin, and if so, is it as bad as 'they' say?

GL