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Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
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  #61  
Old 17 Jul 2013
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I've been in chara for a few days. Nearly got to the chara sands but when I woke up less than a km away it was raining and my first attempt to find them led to me walking a swamp track for an hour only to find d myself at the same river I was camped next to. I turned back as it was cold and wet and I was worried the river would start to rise quickly. After crossing the river and backtracking to stari Chara I saw where I camped and the dunes rising up over the trees right behind me. I laughed as I warmed my frozen feet I the warm swamp.

I'm currently in Novaya Chara in the Kodar gastinatsa across from the station. I'll be riding out tomorrow.

Then this morning I woke up feeling pretty terrible and decided between that and the rain I'd spend the day inside playing with the wife. (auto corrected from wifi but wish my girlfriend was here for me to play with).
Last edited by black_labb; 17 Jul 2013 at 07:51.
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  #62  
Old 17 Jul 2013
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I've been in chara for a few days. Nearly got to the chara sands but when I woke up less than a km away it was raining and my first attempt to find them led to me walking a swamp track for an hour only to find d myself at the same river I was camped next to. I turned back as it was cold and wet and I was worried the river would start to rise quickly. After crossing the river and backtracking to stari Chara I saw where I camped and the dunes rising up over the trees right behind me. I laughed as I warmed my frozen feet I the warm swamp.

I'm currently in Novaya Chara in the Kodar gastinatsa across from the station if you get here today. I'll be riding out tomorrow.

Then this morning I woke up feeling pretty terrible and decided between that and the rain I'd spend the day inside playing with the wife. (auto corrected from wifi but wish my girlfriend was here for me to play with).

I'll
seems like same weather as last year.

not sure where Chris is, but two british guys just left Irkutsk this morning. They will stop at Olkhon tonight, but will be on the BAM in a few days, maybe catch up with you in a week
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  #63  
Old 17 Jul 2013
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seems like same weather as last year.

not sure where Chris is, but two british guys just left Irkutsk this morning. They will stop at Olkhon tonight, but will be on the BAM in a few days, maybe catch up with you in a week
After I posted I realised the chances of someone getting here today is very slim. Its my birthday so I'm going to reward myself with a well earned nap and a pot of tea (possibly made on the balcony here in a wood burning stove)

Rain seems to be a common occurrence for people trying to get to Chara sands. I don't think it would really be nearly as impressive in the rain and fog, the mountains in the background are a big part of the draw. Walking through swamp to get to the desert is kind of odd though.

I plan on coming back anyway. Either with a bike again, a backpack and raft or maybe a self propelling bike from a Magadan bike trade.
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  #64  
Old 17 Jul 2013
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After I posted I realised the chances of someone getting here today is very slim. Its my birthday so I'm going to reward myself with a well earned nap and a pot of tea (possibly made on the balcony here in a wood burning stove)

Rain seems to be a common occurrence for people trying to get to Chara sands. I don't think it would really be nearly as impressive in the rain and fog, the mountains in the background are a big part of the draw. Walking through swamp to get to the desert is kind of odd though.

I plan on coming back anyway. Either with a bike again, a backpack and raft or maybe a self propelling bike from a Magadan bike trade.
Spoil yourself Luke ... the food downstairs in the ground floor cafe is pretty decent for that part of the world. And grab a . Dont forget to update your spot tracker from time to time ... there are people following it you know.!
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  #65  
Old 17 Jul 2013
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The food isn't too bad at all. The noisy bakery in there is a bit less relaxing but Chara is pretty soviet in a lot of ways. Nap was good but the cafe is closed now that I've woken. Time for that I think.
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  #66  
Old 20 Jul 2013
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Riding with Jon and Andrew from Jabba mundo and Pete.. Leaving Severobaykalsk late on Saturday 20th as I had to fix a leaky radiator on my bike. Hope the rad seal holds. Won't make end of track 52 today and will wild camp somewhere.
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  #67  
Old 20 Jul 2013
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Riding with Jon and Andrew from Jabba mundo and Pete.. Leaving Severobaykalsk late on Saturday 20th as I had to fix a leaky radiator on my bike. Hope the rad seal holds. Won't make end of track 52 today and will wild camp somewhere.
Have been shamed into remembering that my room mate JediMaster is actually on the trip too and he's the one who fixed my rad.

And it's MUNDUS!!!!!!
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  #68  
Old 20 Jul 2013
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Have been shamed into remembering that my room mate JediMaster is actually on the trip too and he's the one who fixed my rad.

And it's MUNDUS!!!!!!
So you guys are a group of 5 now?
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  #69  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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So you guys are a group of 5 now?
Riding solo again now. The running gear on my
shed of a Trannie is too shite for the roads, so the other 4 are off ahead of me. My slow average speed was compounded by having to yesterday change a toasted clutch. Took 5 hours on the side of the track. The mossies had a feast too.

2 Russian truckers had the skill, tools and patience to help. Great guys. I had the spare clutch plates and having done the same to my other Alp in Morocco, was able to advise on technique.

Made it to Taksimo earlier today. What took you guys a day last year from Severobaykalsk took me twice that. It'll help me with my timings knowing that now. Not a problem as I have camping gear and there's no shortage of water in the rivers

2 other lads, Felix and Phil are 2 or 3 days behind me. They'll probably catch me up.
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  #70  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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The other 4 arent that far ahead ... they left Taksimo this morning, but have not yet reached the Vitim ... maybe fixing something by the road.

The Transalp is a big old unit for the BAM ... The road will deteriorate slightly after Taksimo. But the real challenge for the bike will be from about 30 km before Khani to Yuktali. Thats the toughest stretch on the western section.

Behind Felix and Phil will be a Kim and Seb, a Belgian couple on DRZ400s .... maybe 3-4 days behind.

Also leaving UB today on the same route is Joe Dakar and his girlfriend Corinna on F800s ...
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  #71  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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The mozzies are relentless if you stop for anything more than a minute!
The road is only going to get worse from Taksimo, hope the trannie holds together..
Good luck Chris.

Mark
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  #72  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm gonna chill here today and take it easy for the next couple of days. Dead slow is the new way to go.
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  #73  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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Riding solo again now.
chris, out of curiousity, where are you now, and what kind of internet connection do you have? slightly surprised to be getting live updates from BAMland.
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  #74  
Old 22 Jul 2013
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chris, out of curiousity, where are you now, and what kind of internet connection do you have? slightly surprised to be getting live updates from BAMland.
Taksimo has good 3G connections.

He should also find good connections in Chara and Yuktali ... Novy Uoyan, Kuanda and Khani have some sort of mobile phone connection but cant remember how good off the top of my head
Last edited by colebatch; 23 Jul 2013 at 08:45.
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  #75  
Old 23 Jul 2013
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In Taksimo. Using hotel wifi. Don't have an unlocked 3g handset. My megafon regular sim card purchased in Irkutsk in my unlocked quad band handset is next to useless.
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