Been trying to understand the same, also talking to David and to Travcour.
It seems that you can sometimes get a transit visa if you have visas for either side. However the word is that it is not certain that your application will be successful, allthough it's not clear just how likely it is to be rejected. Since it lasts for 5 days you may encounter difficulties if you are late but advice round here seems to be that you can get an extension in Ashgabat.
The tourist visa option, according to David at Stantours but I haven't been able to verify this, requires an escorted tour with an itinerary and accommodation. Our 5 day tour is going to cost us each $650, that's on top of the visa, the transport authority taxes ,and the insurance you have to get.
The tour David outlined for us includes a free day in Ashgabat to do what we please, and an overnight camping trip to the gas crater. Looks like we'll have 2 nights in the Hotel Asia in Ashgabat, 1 night in a "low-cost" hotel en route, and a camping night at the crater.
Would rather not have to pay for all this, but it does remove that bit of doubt over the transit visa, gives us a more relaxed time with guides to show the way, and a couple of nights out of the tents in the relative comfort of a hotel.
Al
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